Got Body Mounts? (w/pics)

[elmo]

Why thank you! That "s" at the end makes a difference when doing a Google search!

Elmer out

[70gmcjimmy]

Hey GreenMonster--
Do you mean that it was ok until you took the top off? Were all the roof bolts loose when you installed the mounts? I'm an old dirt track stock car chassis setup guy and my theory was leavin the top on to simulate actual driving weight as the top wont be off of this truck much. Matter of fact---I will probly catch some hell, but the roof has never been off this truck since new.
I was gonna jack up the roof, replace weatherstripping set it back down and then put in the mounts before I put the bolts back in and tighten er all up.

Let me know your opinoins guys!---DAC

[Oldschool68]

I buy all my stuff through CPP(Classic Performance Products) there prices are right for a part that will last a life time! They guarntee all there parts for life!!

[Green Monster]

Originally Posted by 70gmcjimmy

Hey GreenMonster--
Do you mean that it was ok until you took the top off? Were all the roof bolts loose when you installed the mounts?

I have only removed the top. I have not replaced the mounts yet. The doors closed fine prior to removing the top. Now it sags a little. If you plane to keep the top off, then I would say replace the mounts with the top off. If you plane to keep the top on, then replace the mounts with the top on.

[trailzen]

I just finished doing mine with enegy suspension mounts,might I suggest putting the mounts in with any factory shims that were there and then drive and let the truck sit for a few days it may settle a little different then it does at first.I'm still playing with shims on the passenger side but a little .050" goes along way by the time you get to the top of the door frame.

[70gmcjimmy]

Thanks a bunch for the advice, GreenMonster and Trailzen!
I will probly do it with the top on then, and use the factory shims and let er take a set. Do you guys know about buying shims if needed? Body shop supply store maybe?

Great info here!---DAC

[Green Monster]

Alright... I'm ready for mounts.

Did anyone ever get the mounts on? What was the outcome?



http://www.gmcpaulstruckparts.com/ru...r_strip_21.htm

http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cb/0099.html

[RunTMCfan]

I did LMC's. They are nice quality. Their catalog shows you where and how to install them as well.

[Green Monster]

Did you use the 60 pc. Polyurethane body mounts for $129 listed in the link from LMC? I could not find rubber. I have used Polyurethane on my Mustang and Taurus SHO suspension. I have had good success with it- no squeeking.

I'm kind of confused as to which ones to use. GMC Pauls is an 84 pc. rubber kit for $179. 60 or 84, why the difference in amount of pieces?

[RunTMCfan]

Can't remember what I bought. I will check my reciept. I believe mine was some kit for like $229??? All the parts appear to be very high quality (surprise).

[70gmcjimmy]

Hey GreenMonster, and RunTMCFan-
The 84 piece kit includes the radiator carriage also so I'm assuming that the 60 piece kit is tub only. Still havent been able to install the mounts, but I got some much needed qpanel pieces that Ive been working on. Still alot to do on the new house so time has been limited.
I realize that LMC is not a vendor here, but that catalog is worth getting just for the exploded views of the parts. Maybe poly bushings are just fine, but I didnt want to risk having some irritating squeaks that would drive me more nuts! We put poly bushings in our dirt car suspension and when we scale the car ya unhook the shocks and bounce the chassis to take a set, and they squeak like hell, but it could have somethin to do with dirt trackin!

Glad to see this thread goin again!---DAC

[lawricker]

I just finished putting all new mounts on my 71.. when I took off the old ones the #2 position that is the second set from the front. were shimmed from the factory. I Was having a heck of a time trying to get my doors lined up. I put about 1 1/2 inches of washers (shims) and seems to have fixed the problem. I'll know more when I get the fenders and rockers and floor pans installed. I used the
Kit and it is pretty self explanitory, just look at the picture in the catalog.

[RunTMCfan]

I have some serious door gaps that need fixing.

[Green Monster]

What kind of gaps are you talking about...? Did they change after the installation? Better or worse?

Am I missing something? All I can find in LMC's website is the 60 piece poly kit. No rubber. No 84 piece. I will gladly buy the poly kit from a site vendor. I just want to make sure I'm getting everything I need.

Originally Posted by lawricker

I used the
Kit and it is pretty self explanitory, just look at the picture in the catalog.

Originally Posted by RunTMCfan

I did LMC's. They are nice quality. Their catalog shows you where and how to install them as well.

I used LMC's catolog for replacing my CST woodgrain trim. It is very helpful. It told me what type and where the clips were. Not bad for a free catolog.

[Green Monster]

Nevermind... I found it the rubber 84 piece kit. $179.95. Same as GMC Pauls. I was looking under the performance part of the catolog. Guess an 84 piece poly kit is not made.

http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cb/0032.html

[RunTMCfan]

I was doing new mounts to better secure the body and help "table" my tub. Then I was going to shim where necessary to get all the doors and panels to line up. I got half way done with the kit and decided to turn my old shed into a shop cause I was tired of working on my Blazer in my carport. It's been six weeks and the shop is almost done. I will then finish the install. You may need a cutting wheel to get off some of the bolts welded to the floor. Some are welded and others aren't.

[Green Monster]

I have not had difficultly removing any bolts from this Blazer. I have been really lucky since it has no rust. Can I reuse my bolts instead of cutting them off? I have not looked closely to see exactly what's going on with the body mounts. I just know my door gaps got screwed up after I removed the top. The body mounts seem to he the culprit. How long do you think this project should take?

[VinceY]

Originally Posted by Green Monster

I have not had difficultly removing any bolts from this Blazer. I have been really lucky since it has no rust. Can I reuse my bolts instead of cutting them off? I have not looked closely to see exactly what's going on with the body mounts. I just know my door gaps got screwed up after I removed the top. The body mounts seem to he the culprit. How long do you think this project should take?

I thought my bolts would be good also for the same reason as yours. The bolts were rusted inside the old body mounts. Plan on new bolts. Plan on a couple of evenings work. Check out the post below from an old article for our year of trucks. Might be a couple of tips for you.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ht=body+mounts

[Green Monster]

I have replacement carpet to install. Is it convenient to replace the body mounts and carpet the same time?

[70gmcjimmy]

TTT on this to see if its the thread that JCFoote is lookin for.

Lot of time has passed and decision changes but this is the point I am at now also. Need to drop the gas tank and its time to lift. The original bolts are still fine so I dont have to grind them for removal. Just gotta lift the tub high enuff for them to clear, and hope to gude em back in ok. I'm lifting it with a cherry picker in the rear seat mount holes, and some timber support under the front with the floor jack,These ideas are from great advice from members of the Blazer-Jimmy forum. I aint doing a frame off resto, its more of a preservation to keep 'er from further deterioration.
Only part of the complete tub removed is the tailgate, but no roof bolts are going to be loose just to make sure the tub doesn't flex while lifting, then if the roof bolts need to be loosened after installation of the new mounts to let the tub table, ok.
Any more advice/ideas on this topic is still valuable info!!!!!!

Later---DAC