Firewall questions?? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

tx69gmc · 08-15-2006, 10:34 PM

OK guys. Let's take another crack at this. I am posting pictures of my current firewall as well as pictures of a good firewall from a donor cab. What I am thinking is that I can drill out the spot welds around the perimeter of both firewalls down to the floor pans(including the hump) and swap them out. Am I over simplifying this? What else do I need to be aware of? This board is the greatest....

tx69gmc · 08-15-2006, 10:35 PM

Few more pics...

tx69gmc · 08-16-2006, 08:52 AM

Ttt

72swbcamo · 08-16-2006, 06:32 PM

I am doing the same thing. Changing firewall. I am putting a 72 firewall on to a 68. I removed the 68 firewall by drilling out the spot welds from the engine compartment side using a spot weld remover drill. Got it from Eastwood.

The firewall from the donor truck I cut the flange off the cowl with a sawsall so I could remove the excess metal from the backside of the firewall. This gave me flanges on the body and firewall with no holes in them. As of yet I have not put the firewall back on but I am planning on drilling holes on the firewall and plug welding them to the body flange.

The welds at the bottom of the cowl and at the floor seam I was able to split of with a sharp cold chisle. I was lucky the welds on the floor seam were not good welds.

If you use this method to replace the firewall refer to the assembly manual because there is an ares on the top of the firewall that is not spot welded for some reason. Check the diagram in the assembly manual, it sows where the spot welds are supposed to be.

68 short step · 08-16-2006, 07:40 PM

come to my house and buy my cab for 125$ obo and dont worry about the firewall..here are a few pics
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=206955

tx69gmc · 08-17-2006, 01:42 AM

72SWBCAMO. Do you have nay pics of what you are doing so far?

Rokcrln · 08-17-2006, 07:24 AM

The only problem I see with your idea is your rusted fire wall is missing most of the lip you plan on welding the new wall to. Why not just finish the rust prosess and just shave off the lip and smooth it out?

Kevin
LFD Inc.

tx69gmc · 08-17-2006, 09:18 AM

That is what I plan on doing. The only problem I see there is that when smoothing, most guys are using a filler strip to go between the lip and the cab. Any suggestions on how to accomplish this?

tx69gmc · 08-17-2006, 05:58 PM

ttt

08-15-2006, 10:34 PM	#1
tx69gmc Registered User Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Denton,TX Posts: 61	Firewall questions?? OK guys. Let's take another crack at this. I am posting pictures of my current firewall as well as pictures of a good firewall from a donor cab. What I am thinking is that I can drill out the spot welds around the perimeter of both firewalls down to the floor pans(including the hump) and swap them out. Am I over simplifying this? What else do I need to be aware of? This board is the greatest.... Attached Images

08-15-2006, 10:35 PM	#2
tx69gmc Registered User Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Denton,TX Posts: 61	Re: Firewall questions?? Few more pics... Attached Images

08-16-2006, 08:52 AM	#3
tx69gmc Registered User Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Denton,TX Posts: 61	Re: Firewall questions?? Ttt

08-16-2006, 06:32 PM	#4
72swbcamo Active Member Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Waterbury, CT Posts: 591	Re: Firewall questions?? I am doing the same thing. Changing firewall. I am putting a 72 firewall on to a 68. I removed the 68 firewall by drilling out the spot welds from the engine compartment side using a spot weld remover drill. Got it from Eastwood. The firewall from the donor truck I cut the flange off the cowl with a sawsall so I could remove the excess metal from the backside of the firewall. This gave me flanges on the body and firewall with no holes in them. As of yet I have not put the firewall back on but I am planning on drilling holes on the firewall and plug welding them to the body flange. The welds at the bottom of the cowl and at the floor seam I was able to split of with a sharp cold chisle. I was lucky the welds on the floor seam were not good welds. If you use this method to replace the firewall refer to the assembly manual because there is an ares on the top of the firewall that is not spot welded for some reason. Check the diagram in the assembly manual, it sows where the spot welds are supposed to be.

08-16-2006, 07:40 PM	#5
68 short step Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: tulsa OK Posts: 3,070	Re: Firewall questions?? come to my house and buy my cab for 125$ obo and dont worry about the firewall..here are a few pics http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=206955

08-17-2006, 01:42 AM	#6
tx69gmc Registered User Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Denton,TX Posts: 61	Re: Firewall questions?? 72SWBCAMO. Do you have nay pics of what you are doing so far?

08-17-2006, 07:24 AM	#7
Rokcrln Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Winters Ca. 95694 Posts: 4,843	Re: Firewall questions?? The only problem I see with your idea is your rusted fire wall is missing most of the lip you plan on welding the new wall to. Why not just finish the rust prosess and just shave off the lip and smooth it out? Kevin LFD Inc.

08-17-2006, 09:18 AM	#8
tx69gmc Registered User Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Denton,TX Posts: 61	Re: Firewall questions?? That is what I plan on doing. The only problem I see there is that when smoothing, most guys are using a filler strip to go between the lip and the cab. Any suggestions on how to accomplish this?

08-17-2006, 05:58 PM	#9
tx69gmc Registered User Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Denton,TX Posts: 61	Re: Firewall questions?? ttt

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