383 build up (progress pics)

[CG]

Originally Posted by Ron 586

It would not surprise me. I have heard about every horsepower number under the sun come up for the stroker motors. I believe what the dyno kicks out. And it will have to be one hell of a motor to get 500 hp. Not saying it can't be done but lots of money to do it and we're talking street motors without nitrous.

Im far from an expert on this stuff, but I did notice he is Canadian. Maybe he is talking metric horsepower...

Just messing with ya corkscrew

[wolfthing2000]

68 stepbed has it right on for the Air Gaps! I went with the performer Air Gap rather than the RPM.
As far as horsepower from a stroked 350 (383), there was a great right up years ago, before the cranks became commercialy available and they were still custom machining this stuff from forged crank blanks. The article was titled One HP per Cubic Inch from a small block Chevy on pump gas.
This is exactly what we are doing today!!


Oh, by the way, the mechanic/machinist, author of the article, was non other than the ever famous engine builder Smokey Yunik!!!

[mtb_will_03]

Im thinking of maybe swaping the mech cam for a roller, how much more hp does that make around ?

[mtb_will_03]

Originally Posted by 70GMCer

What machine work had to be done to the block to except the crank? I've read somewhere that you have to grind down on the rods at the bolt cap bosses to clear the cam. Is this true? I'm thinking on building a 383.

Im not sure what has been ground down because the guy I got it from got all the machine work done.

[55ChevyPU]

I just finished the break-in on my 383 a week ago and although illegal ive taken it around the back streets and was pretty damn impressed with it. It runs really strong and sounds great *check sig* gl with the rest of the build.

[shane72_383]

Originally Posted by 70GMCer

What machine work had to be done to the block to except the crank? I've read somewhere that you have to grind down on the rods at the bolt cap bosses to clear the cam. Is this true? I'm thinking on building a 383.

It depends, if you use a 400 crank the mains have to be turned down to accept the 350 block mains, and you have to use the 400 rods, which is a 5.565" rod. You can buy aftermarket cranks that are stroked and setup to accept a 5.7" rod (350, 305) which is much more common. The only problem with these cranks is you have to grind one side of the rod cap bolts down a little bit to clear the cam, you can also buy these already clearenced.

[shane72_383]

Originally Posted by mtb_will_03

Im thinking of maybe swaping the mech cam for a roller, how much more hp does that make around ?

The only way you can swap in a roller cam is if its a roller block which its not. The journals for the cam bearings are a little bit bigger on a roller motor. if you can find a newer vortec 350 or HO 350 the block will be roller.

[wolfthing2000]

I have a Crane roller in my non roller block. Use the retro roller kit.

[CMars45000]

Originally Posted by shane72_383

The only way you can swap in a roller cam is if its a roller block which its not. The journals for the cam bearings are a little bit bigger on a roller motor. if you can find a newer vortec 350 or HO 350 the block will be roller.

Yeah, you need a roller block if you want a stock-type roller lifter (thing lifter retainer with the lifter valley "spider") but you can convert ANY chevy SBC or BBC to a roller cam (hydraulic or solid) by using linked lifter that have a link bar to keep them inline.

Even early TBI 350 motors (circa 1987-1992) are roller-ready blocks but they had flat tappet cams. You can convert the block easily by drilling and tapping the 3 bosses in the lifter vally to hold down the lifter "spider" The top of the lifter bores are already milled flat to accept the stock-style lifter retainer.

[wolfthing2000]

see post 33 for the answer to roller cam for early blocks

[shane72_383]

How do you do it? i thought a roller cams bearing journals were bigger than a mechanical?

[wolfthing2000]

How I did it::: Look in Summit for the camshaft (Crane) and buy the Crane retro Hydraulic roller lifters. Everything is off the shelf. No extra machine work to block. You will also want to go with roller rockers and guide plates for the full effect.

[wolfthing2000]

Just call any reputable engine machine shop and they probably have the parts on the shelf.. It is a very common upgrade for the early small blocks.

[MisterMan]

have the same cam, you'll like it. be prepaired to two foot everystop!!! also, may wanna add a vacc can, that cam makes all vaccum hit the flor.

[CMars45000]

Originally Posted by shane72_383

How do you do it? i thought a roller cams bearing journals were bigger than a mechanical?

No, you don't need to worry about going to a larger journal cam until you get to ~.650" net lift cam...and that is a BIG cam in a small block. And even then, the net lift can effectively be increased by magking the base circle of the cam smaller (moving the surface of the cam that the lifter rides on when the valves is CLOSED closer to the valve centerline).

Like wolfthing said, there are PLENTY of aftermarket roller cam designs for early SBC engines.

[mtb_will_03]

picked up a few of the last parts today

[wolfthing2000]

2 foot every stop?? I take it you mean 1 on brake and the other feathering the throttle to keep up idle??? Also I am with the vaccuum loss thing and I need to address that for the vac boost brakes. What exactly is the vac can and where do I get one. Kinda sounds like the old truck thing called hydro vac brakes" they had a large tank to store the vaccuum and the master cylinder activated a valve in a remote vaccuum assist cylinder to make the brakes work. Look out if the engine died!!! No wonder there were so many scare storys of runaway trucks back in the early days of trucking!!!! I guess they had one application maybe 2 with the stored vaccuum and that was it.
If I follow the idea, my low vac high lift cam ( has 1.6 intake rockers also) needs a storage tank to store up the little bit of vaccuum like a surge tank does for hydraulics, so if I apply brakes I can stop.


AAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHAAAAAAAAAAAA!!!
You mean 2 feet on the binders don't ya???
( light just lit above head) gotcha!!

[MisterMan]

yea, foot on the brake while fethering the throttle while your stil breaking it in... seems like it take forever!!! ....

vacc can is of corse short for vaccume canister..... jegs carries e'm,
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...10002_13767_-1

[mtb_will_03]

My 72 dosnt have power brakes.

[corkscrew]

Originally Posted by CG

Im far from an expert on this stuff, but I did notice he is Canadian. Maybe he is talking metric horsepower...

Just messing with ya corkscrew

I am just relaying on to you guys what i was quoted for. I am going at a very high compression. that also helps.

[55ChevyPU]

Originally Posted by MisterMan

have the same cam, you'll like it. be prepaired to two foot everystop!!! also, may wanna add a vacc can, that cam makes all vaccum hit the flor.

haha isnt that the truth I have to rev the engine to get a solid brake pedal. I am going to buy a vacuum canister before I seriously drive her.

[mtb_will_03]

Update - Engines going into the shop tomarrow to get built up

[mtb_will_03]

Well the engines in the shop right now getting built up, I get it back wednesday.

I took my edelbrock carb off my truck to test out the new holley befor I put it on the 383 when I get it back, but the carb seems to be making a weired sound

Link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3mXVYpobJOk

Link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xwReKDaxKZM

[A.P.]

It sounds like it works to me.

[mtb_will_03]

Originally Posted by A.P.

It sounds like it works to me.

The carbs a street avenger 770, are they supost to make that sound ?