Shavin - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

GMC JUNKIE TOO · 12-12-2002, 08:43 PM

I am going to shave the door handles on my 69 panel. I am either going to use an autoloc kit, or I saw a web site that made a direct bolt on kit for our trucks but I cant remember where I saw it. I have seen pepole cut out the handle area and weld in new material, and allso just make a patch for the dimple. What have you guys done, any advice would be apriciated.

XXL · 12-12-2002, 08:46 PM

Patch over the dimple. The bend in the stock skin adds a little bit of strength to that otherwise wide open space.

Kenneth

GMC JUNKIE TOO · 12-12-2002, 09:18 PM

That is what I am going to do.

p.s. What happend to the new avatar???

superchevy · 12-12-2002, 09:47 PM

Don't go with AutoLoc, go with ShaveTech instead. Developed by a board member. Here's his website:

http://www.customclassic.com/

GMC JUNKIE TOO · 12-12-2002, 10:36 PM

Thanks super chevy that is the site I was looking for.

GMC JUNKIE TOO · 12-12-2002, 11:18 PM

Has anybody ever used or heard of somebody using the shave tech kit. Im kinda skeptical.

orange72 · 12-13-2002, 12:54 AM

i just put a patch over the holes. i used a p.a.w kit from summit..it comes with 15# selenoids but i upgraded to 45#. so fars its been a good kit. costs me 200 bucks.

nosto · 12-14-2002, 01:14 AM

I started to cut out the small patch pieces, then saw a web page that showed it being done with a single rectangular piece (+ the lock hole patch). Sooooo.... I cut out the whole door handle area and tacked in a single patch.

I was using a brand new Goodmark door and after tacking around once or twice (lowest heat, .023 wire, C25), waiting for cool down each pass, I thought things were OK. Five minutes later, I heard a thump and saw a 6" diameter, 1/2" deep 'crater' just below the patch. I ended up trying to fix this and had to use filler/heat/blood, sweat and tears on about half the door, and it still doesn't look right.

Not wanting to make the same mistake, (whatever mistake it was), I used a hunk of 1/4" as a heat sink on the second door and the results were much better!

SCOTI · 12-14-2002, 10:28 AM

I just welded over the depressions in the door because anywhere there's a body line will be less prone to warpage.

GMC JUNKIE TOO · 12-14-2002, 04:20 PM

Thanks guys, what brand of actuator kit did you guys use?

XXL · 12-14-2002, 04:29 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by GMC JUNKIE TOO
Thanks guys, what brand of actuator kit did you guys use?

I'm using the factory hatch release motors out of late model F-body cars. They're a dime a dozen at wrecking yards and they have good torque to pop these old doors. They don't however have enough throw for a direct pull... so I made a lever like so...

This gives me the additional throw I need to pop the door latch and it keeps the motor and assembly away from the window regulator.

Kenneth

12-12-2002, 08:43 PM	#1
GMC JUNKIE TOO THE QUICKER FIXERUPER Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Ok Posts: 615	Shavin I am going to shave the door handles on my 69 panel. I am either going to use an autoloc kit, or I saw a web site that made a direct bolt on kit for our trucks but I cant remember where I saw it. I have seen pepole cut out the handle area and weld in new material, and allso just make a patch for the dimple. What have you guys done, any advice would be apriciated.

12-12-2002, 08:46 PM	#2
XXL Señor Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: Edge of the world Posts: 5,367	Patch over the dimple. The bend in the stock skin adds a little bit of strength to that otherwise wide open space. Kenneth __________________ Craigslist \| ebay \| Engrishtees \| www.myattitudesucks.com \| Follow me on Twitter

12-12-2002, 09:47 PM	#4
superchevy Got big-block? Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: Austin, Texas Posts: 2,453	Don't go with AutoLoc, go with ShaveTech instead. Developed by a board member. Here's his website: http://www.customclassic.com/ __________________ '68 CST SWB factory 396/T400 buddy buckets, a/c, ps, pb '72 Corvette convertible 454/4spd/ac, ps, pb '73 GMC Sierra Grande short wide 454/T400 ps, pb, ac '77 K5 Blazer black on red, 350/T350/NP205 ps, pb, ac all original '78 GMC Sierra Classic short wide 454/T400 ps, pb, ac '72 GMC Sprint SP454. 1 of 38 built. '73 GMC Sprint SP454. 1 of 71 built. '75 GMC Sprint SP454. 1 of 25 built. SOLD! '72 GMC K25 4x4 468/4L80e/NP205 build thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...23#post4324423 SOLD!'55 Chevy gasser 496/4spd build thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...96#post4324396

12-13-2002, 12:54 AM	#7
orange72 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: huntington,texas,united states Posts: 399	i just put a patch over the holes. i used a p.a.w kit from summit..it comes with 15# selenoids but i upgraded to 45#. so fars its been a good kit. costs me 200 bucks. __________________ 1972 chevy long bed. Currently under construction!! Bagged, 383/700r4.

12-14-2002, 01:14 AM	#8
nosto Flamin' Bass Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Galloway, NJ, US Posts: 315	I started to cut out the small patch pieces, then saw a web page that showed it being done with a single rectangular piece (+ the lock hole patch). Sooooo.... I cut out the whole door handle area and tacked in a single patch. I was using a brand new Goodmark door and after tacking around once or twice (lowest heat, .023 wire, C25), waiting for cool down each pass, I thought things were OK. Five minutes later, I heard a thump and saw a 6" diameter, 1/2" deep 'crater' just below the patch. I ended up trying to fix this and had to use filler/heat/blood, sweat and tears on about half the door, and it still doesn't look right. Not wanting to make the same mistake, (whatever mistake it was), I used a hunk of 1/4" as a heat sink on the second door and the results were much better! Attached Images __________________ Rick Olson /nosto/ Galloway, NJ Pics : http://community.webshots.com/user/nosto53 1972 Triumph TR6 - full resto, now with a Toyota 5-speed 1975 F**D F-100 - rusty, but reliable 1982 HD XLH-1000 1967 C-10, shortstep, 350/M21 4spd, nitrogen tank fills fast bags on 4 corners, Toyo 255/45X20s on American Eagle 221 20X8s, shaved locks and handles, antenna, fuel filler, tiny C-notch, rear fuel tank, long headers, Edelbrock, worn 600 Holley, Checkmate flush hard cover, rear pan, custom LED taillights - painted it, too! But don't like it so I'm gonna do it again!!

12-12-2002, 09:18 PM	#3
GMC JUNKIE TOO THE QUICKER FIXERUPER Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Ok Posts: 615	That is what I am going to do. p.s. What happend to the new avatar???

12-12-2002, 10:36 PM	#5
GMC JUNKIE TOO THE QUICKER FIXERUPER Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Ok Posts: 615	Thanks super chevy that is the site I was looking for.

12-12-2002, 11:18 PM	#6
GMC JUNKIE TOO THE QUICKER FIXERUPER Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Ok Posts: 615	Has anybody ever used or heard of somebody using the shave tech kit. Im kinda skeptical.

12-14-2002, 10:28 AM	#9
SCOTI Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: DALLAS,TX Posts: 22,064	I just welded over the depressions in the door because anywhere there's a body line will be less prone to warpage. __________________ 67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... *Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.*

12-14-2002, 04:20 PM	#10
GMC JUNKIE TOO THE QUICKER FIXERUPER Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Ok Posts: 615	Thanks guys, what brand of actuator kit did you guys use?

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