Best 3/4t or 1t running gear

[RckyMntnKng]

What is a good or great set of Axles off a late model rig that could be found
in a junk yard or what not and rebuilt for a Jimmy or Blazer?

Considering a large lift and tires to be used For street and Off-roading.

Something that may come stock with Low gears etc

Want to be able to run lockers

Want them STOUT but not overkill for weight

A D60 and Corp 14 bolt is what ive seen in other threads?

Any advice is apperciated. My Jimmy is currently getting constructed (Body wise and paint wise) but this will eb the next step and I can start getting ready for it.

What vehicles would I search for if I wanted to steal some axles etc

Thanks RckyMntnKng

[1969k10stepside]

How much wheeling do you plan to do,and what size tires? A locker in the front (or even in the rear for that matter) really isnt a good choice for a vehicle on the road alot.If you plan to run 35s-36s a 14 bolt rear and 44 or 10 bolt front would be a good choice.If you plan to run 38s or taller and wheel it a dana 60 front would be in order..

[RckyMntnKng]

As much as I can get and remain Street Legal.

Im thinking bigger than 35's, but not 44's.........something about 36"-38" would be fine.

Good point on the Lockers.....I still want street-ability so whats the next best thing?

[pcwillsie]

i would stay away from the front 10 bolt or the dana 44 and just go straight for the dana 60. the dana 60 is much stronger and just as easy or maybe even easier to get parts for. and no matter what tires you run it will work but if you decide to go bigger in the future you already have the right parts to do so.

[1969k10stepside]

True but for the price of a dana 60 front axle it may seem like overkill if it isn't really needed.With 38s,a 44 would hold up under moderate wheeling conditions if built right but depending on what you're using it for,a dana 60 might be in order...

[RckyMntnKng]

I want to be able to drive from my house...2 hours plus on the highway, to places with "jeep" trails and Mud holes that swallow 1/2 tons like a petron shot. It will be a play rig, but I Love it so much I couldnt bare to not be able to drive it daily.

D60 Front sounds like the way to go- thanks guys
14 bolt rear is the concensus on rear?

What kind of vehicles have/had those stock that I could try to find in junk yard?

[69TowRig]

Dana 60s for Chevys are relatively cheap when compared to some other alternatives. Compare them to, say a driver's drop HP Dana 60 from a Ford and you are talking $1000+ easy. I've seen 60s for GMs go for a third of that.

For the rear the 14 Bolt can't be beat. Convert it to disc brakes and shave a good chunk of weight from the drums off. A nice shave of the bottom of the housing will net some decent gains in ground clearance. Aside from axles with removeable 3rd members it is about the easiest axle to set up. Many came from the factory with Detroit No-Spin lockers and gear ratios that work great with tires in the size range you are looking at.

[1969k10stepside]

You could use a 14 bolt which are practically a dime a dozen rear or stick with a Eaton axle,which some swear are stronger than the 14 bolt.The eaton axles..found in the rear of 3/4 and 1 ton 67-72s and the 14 bolt was used in the 3/4 and one ton trucks from 73-??.The dana 60 front will be found in K30s or V30s.Keep in mind,if you find a one ton 4wd (K30 & V30) and use the 60 front from it,the rear axle (14 bolt) will go into the blazer without having to move spring perches,like you would on a 3/4 ton axle.You would just have to relocate shock mounts.
Dana 60 fronts can be found cheap if you look long enough,but if not be prepared to spend around $1000 for one.There is the DRW style,and the SRW style.The difference is in the hubs.You can use the dually style on yours if you have the right rims,but if not you will need to convert to SRW hubs,or just buy a SRW dana 60.The SRW style are usually more expensive,as are hubs if that is what you need to convert a DRW to SRW

[RckyMntnKng]

Price is an issue...but relatively speaking

Id rather pay more now than re-do and fix alot later.....kind of looking for the best and most affordable solution.

Thanks alot guys......

So the 14 bolt from a 1 ton (K30 or V30) is different than the 14 bolt on a 3/4 ton?

[RckyMntnKng]

Rear:

(Eaton from '67-'72) = 3/4T & 1T

(14 bolt from '73up) = 3/4T & 1T (1T = no spring perch adjust)

Front:

10 bolt = Less than 38's

D44 = 38's with Moderate Wheeling

(D60 from K30 or V30)= 38's and up for hard wheeling
- Single Rear Wheel = Most desirable find
- Dual Rear Wheel = will need to have special wheels with Diff hubs or change to srw hub

So am I correct here?
Give me a little more scoop on the D44 incase I find one for a steal.
What rigs and special circumstances. With Moderate wheeling they hold up with up to 38's. Any special spring perch or shock relocates needed?

To help me not be ignorant.....what are the stock 6 bolt 1500 axles I have on now called and what will they stand up to?

[earl87gta]

you have a d44 now same as the 3/4 dana 44 but with diffrent hubs. IM going to be honist here buy a DRW D60 find one for 500 or less then buy every thing to convert it to SRW and rebuild it it will cost around 1500 for every thing but it will all be new. if you buy a SRW D60 your looking at 800 to 1000 you will still probly need to rebuild part of it and then you will be in the same price range as the DRW 60 but it will not be a full rebuild.
I say this becuse with 38in or bigger tires your going to need 4:56 gears and that means any axle you buy is going to probly be more at the 1500 range .
you may also wnat to look in to governmentliquidation.com and bid on a m1008 some time you can score one for 1k and that would have every thing you need but would most likly still need some work on the d60. look at spending at the least 300 on parts on top of the cost of the d60 for things like rebuilding the king pins and brakes .

[Wes72K5CST]

Hey Rocky Mnt. I would go with the big hub 3/4ton Dana 44 and the 14 bolt I had that set-up on my late 75 GMC pick-up with 40" Gumbo's I never did lock them I wish I would have but I never had any problems with my running gear and I took it 4 wheeling a lot. I am going to throw that same drivetrain in my 72 blazer I am working on now except I might lock them up this time, I think I might throw a quick lock in the front and detroit in the rear but am still undecided for sure.

1972 Chevrolet Blazer K5 CST
1982 Chevrolet Camaro Z28

[RckyMntnKng]

I didnt realize I already had a D44 up front, just with a smaller 6 bolt hub?
So I could do good with a 3/4ton 8bolt hub D44....cool

Are the hubs rebuildable to a 3/4t style, or is it better to just get another already out of
a 3/4 ton

What is out back in stock form on 1/2t 71 jimmy?

[Wes72K5CST]

You should have a 12bolt in the rear thats what I have in my '72 also the big hubs are a lot different then the 1/2 tons you can usually pick up a set of 3/4 running gear with a dana 44 and 14 bolt for $300-$500

[earl87gta]

all you have to do is replace the hubs ,backing plates and spindals I just sold a set there going for around 100 on ebay write now. I think bob bocnwheels on this web site has a hole axle for sale for like 200 ask him if he will sell you just the 3/4 parts. When you say big hub make sure the person you are geting it from knows you mean the larger baring internal locking hub not the larger exteranl locking hub with the smaller barings.
I would also think twice abought going this route if your going to lock the front and run any thing bigger then a 35 you will be breaking alot of ujoints and axle shafts. I had 36s on my 72 blazer with a locker and broke seral shaft u joints and on ring gear before I decided to go d60.

[tallhoedude]

ford hp dana 60 front.w/detroit true trac locker.
easy to swap to chevy 3/4 ton brakes.
gm 14 bolt rear,i ran a lock rite locker on the street,it would howl the tires
a little,but not that bad once you learned how to drive it.
beat on the axles hard w/ 42's and 44's...never broke.

or.......you could do what im doing now..............2 1/2 ton!!

[RckyMntnKng]

Thanks everyone. I really appreciate the knowledge and advice.

Now my search begins! At least I will be informed before I start.

Good tip on the M1008 at Gov't Liq. Wish I lived near Camp Legune.

[earl87gta]

Ya I have been thinking about getting one from them just so you know all the reserve units in NC were told to turn in there 1008s they will bereplaced with somthing new my in Greenvile NC they replaced them with f350s. when the m1008 were dropped of at Legune we were told they were fasing them out so our supply of d60 and m1008 will soon be gone.

[RckyMntnKng]

How much Lift Is it going to take to let a pair of wide 38's flex under wheeling conditions.

1) Im planning the Dana 60 front and Corp 14 rear.

2) While the Jimmy is in Body work and rust removal mode....Im gonna throw on a Body Lift with the new body bushings that have turned to dust.

Will a 6" Suspension lift and a 3" body lift with a little trimming get the job done? Bigger, smaller?

Thanks-RMK

[RckyMntnKng]

REVIVE AN OLD THREAD!

Ok guys I found some parts..tell me if this is good idea to buy or not Pls

Its the Drivetrain from a 1987 Chevy 4x4 Dually long bed (DRW)

So its got a front D60 - drw style, and a Rear D70 duals. It has 4.10's in it now. They are from a working and driving truck, where the cab caught fire recently, but the drivetrain wasnt burn.

I get the whole drivetrain for $500...both axles and the Driveshaft etc.

Is this gonna work on my 71 Jimmy?

[Yukon Jack]

IIRC srw hubs will run about $300 and I'm not sure what has to be done about the rear axle. Being a 1 ton it will have the rear spring perches in the correct location.

You could run Hummer rims to avoid having to switch it to srw.

$500 is a good deal IMO so at the least get it and you could always sell it for more. Often see DRW Dana 60 axles in the range of $800 to $1000. The rear axle is worth considerable less.

If a locker is in your future, I'm not sure the Dana 70 is your best option. The detroit locker for the 14 bolt is awful cheap and I think a locker for a Dana 70 is alot more.

[RckyMntnKng]

Thanks!

Maybe I should snag the D60/70 drivetrain for 500 and then sell the 70.
I keep finding 14 bolts for under $200 so I guess I cant lose too bad on the
deal.

Is there any difference between a 14 bolt in a 2wd versus a 4wd, as long as I get the full float axle with 10.5" gear?

[Yukon Jack]

The Hummer rims look pretty cool in my opinion, any chance would want to go that route?

I agree, you ought to go ahead and grab that set of axles. See if the truck had hydroboost brakes, that would be something to grab also.

As far as I know the 14 bolt full floater is the same regardless of whether it is from a 2wd or 4wd.

[RckyMntnKng]

Thanks Bro...

Well Im the proud owner of a 14bff for $150 in good shape, its in the back of my pickup. Donor truck was a 78 3/4 ton 4wd Suburban. I paid a little extra because the guys removed it for me and even loaded it with a forklift. Dont ask me how im gonna get it out short of letting it hit the ground....what are these things about 400lbs?

Learned one thing....not all 14 bolts are the same. First one I looked at from a 3/4 ton Suburban that was 2wd...and it had a 14 bolt, but was not a Full float and it only had a 9.5" ring gear, and an Oval Cover, but definately a 14 bolt.

[vtblazer]

Read through the thread and it seems that the axle issue is covered and your good to go there.

You said you want to drive this thing, which is cool and all but to get it to 'good driver' status can be tough.
Talking about gearing, tires...etc here. (basic drive-ability)

I bring this up cause it's a fairly common dream that few actually achieve.
Mainly due to the balance between street and off-road performance, each time you enhance one, you typically take away from the other.
A truck that's truly capable off-road can be a handful to drive on the street, so right from the beginning you need to plan your 'compromises' carefully.

Big tires require low gears and low gears are a nightmare on the highway.
What about some sort of doubler? Any interest in going that route?
Keep in mind the anemic low range of our NP205 is only a 1.96:1 reduction
The th-350 1st gear is 2.52:1
You could run a 465 and get the granny 1st gear but that won't give you over-drive. (which you'll want)

Building a good axle base is only phase one, what are you planning for the rest of it?

To be a decent street-able truck you'll want/need:
Radial tires
Some kind of over drive (auto/manual, your call)
Fuel injection
Cross over steering and a decent riding suspension.

To be a fun/dependable and capable off road truck:
Lockers for both axles (selectable in the front)
A good low range gearing set up
Hydro assist steering for those big tires
Fuel injection < well worth having in both worlds

Tons more options available but those would be the basics and put together into one package could make for one fun ride!