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Old 01-03-2003, 11:07 AM   #1
jmil1974
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Brakes won't lock up, help!

Well, my brakes seem to work fine but I can't get them to lock up on the street. I know my MC is leaking just a bit from the cap. Could this be the problem? I'm using a rebuilt MC from a C20, could this have anything to do with it? New everything under there except one line . . .
It feels great b/c I came from manual drums but I feel it should be better. Anyone?
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Old 01-03-2003, 11:22 AM   #2
JimKshortstep4x4
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Talking

Are you using the MC and the proportioning valve off of a C 20
on your truck? Is your truck a C 10?

The C 20 master cylinder is reversed from the C 10 as far as which is the front line and which is the rear and I would expect a difference in the way they operate if you did not use the proportioning valve for the right one.

Do you have power brakes or not?

Jim
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Old 01-03-2003, 12:15 PM   #3
jmil1974
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I am using a prop valve off a C10, but a later model or a van. My truck is a C10, btw. I have power too, booster also from a c20. The bowls are different sizes. I BELIEVE I have the smaller bowl working the front and the larger operating the rear. I KNOW I have the front bowl on the front and the rear bowl going to the rear. Is this how it's supposed to be? I can take some pics this weekend . . .
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Old 01-03-2003, 02:03 PM   #4
Zurbo
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Mine are doing the same thing even after a full system rebuild with a new master, new slaves, calipers, rotors, semi metallic pads and shoes, and freshly turned drums. The prop valve and lines were all flushed and working ok. They will lock up on a gravel road but not even come close on dry pavement.

You might want to check uot the suggestions in my other post located here. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...403#post241403
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Old 01-03-2003, 03:32 PM   #5
Mudder
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are you guys using the elcheapo pads? I bought the good pads one time for my truck (lifetime warrenty) think they were metalic. They would not work for $hit. I took them back and put the cheap ones back on and presto. Fixed!
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Old 01-03-2003, 03:36 PM   #6
jmil1974
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I'm using whatever comes in gmcpaul's kit. I have no idea if they are semi-metallic or organic.
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Old 01-03-2003, 04:13 PM   #7
Tynee
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Maybe I'm insane, but why do you want them to lock up? Better stopping without lock-up, no?
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Old 01-03-2003, 05:10 PM   #8
jmil1974
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Tynee- yes, in theory. You get your best braking by braking right on the verge of locking. Sounds like chirping, like the tires are fighting for traction and almost lose it but never do. I'm sure you have NO idea what that's like, huh? :p To be able to do that repeatedly, you have to have the power to lock all 4 of them up, at the same time, and modulate with your foot just short of that. MUCH more difficult than it sounds. While mine are more idiot proof, I am not getting maximum braking, and I am pretty decent at modulating my brakes to the verge of lockup. Comes from riding motorcycles, and maybe from tearing up my truck as a teenager.
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Old 01-03-2003, 07:49 PM   #9
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Ok if it feels like you have to push extra hard at a stop sign (harder than you had to push on your old brakes) you have come across the same thin that I did. Within a couple of days driving my truck I took the pads (disk) off and took them back to the parts store. I bought the cheapest pads they had and it was fine. The metalic pads work good on new vehicles but not our trucks sometimes.
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Old 01-03-2003, 07:51 PM   #10
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When I changed my back drums to disks....it was like night and day better breaking.
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Old 01-05-2003, 12:19 AM   #11
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Jmil1974, On my 72, the small bowl side drives the fronts and the large bowl side drives the rears. It appears that all the parts stores here in Wichita only stock the common masters. Mine appears to be a special Delco/morane or Bendix. Hopefully the correct master will fix my braking performance problem. I'm thinking that you might not have the right master for your system as well so it is not developing enough pressure.
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