lift kit installation

[DRobb's_85]

I'm thinking about getting a small 2-3 inch lift kit for my 85 K10 and at 15years old I most likely wont be able to do it myself as I just dont have the right tools to do it..I know it sounds pitiful but I really dont..My dad doesnt like gettin his hands dirty(wont even change his own oil) therefore I have no tools..So I was wondering if I had to get it professionally installed what I could expect to spend for someone to do it. I'd hate to pay someone to do something that simple but theres no way I could do it myself right now..Thanks.

[va_tlc]

does your school have a shop class? or a vo-tech school nearby? maybe you could slip it into there shop and get it done, that would be nice, but if not i guess it all depends on which shop you take it too,as with most people who have to farm out work, were at the mercy of the man...and hey xmas is rite round the corner just ask your parents for some tools and you could do it yourself nd save sum bucks, good luck and post some b4 and after pics fer us

[earl87gta]

tools would be way cheaper. figure they will probly charge you at leat 2 hours of work thats around 150 to 200 by the time its done. you can get the tools needed for alot less then that and have them for the naxet project you want to try and do.

[mothertrucker424]

i will guess between 500-$800 many shops will hate rust so your looking at couple hours then if you need anything else on the truck they will throw that in too

[watahyahknow]

shouldn't be too hard to do youreself if you have the space and time for it .
just read up on the subject in magazines and such and buy the tools needed , expect some busted knuckels from undoing those chassisbolts though

http://www.chuckschevytruckpages.com/bodylifts.html heres something to start you off with

[Yukon Jack]

I definitely encourage you to do it yourself. You really don't need that many tools.

You will need a set of good jack stands and a good floor jack. Sears often has a 3 ton combo set for about $100.

You'll benefit from having a torque wrench and you can get an economical one for about $50.

Then you would need a basic socket set which you can get at like Sears and a few larger sockets that you could by individually.

I don't use my large sockets too often and I went to a local tool store that sells both good quality and fair quality tools. I picked up a fair quality 1/2 ratchet set that includes 1/2 to maybe one or two sizes above 1" sockets. It has served me well and I think it was like $30 or so.

The great thing about doing it yourself is you will take better care of a vehicle you have put your sweat equity into and if something breaks you will now know how to fix it.

Approach you dad about the fact that your growing up awfully quick and this would be a great project for the two of you to do and that you will do most of it yourself but want him there to over see the project.

He better have a hard time turning down that proposition!

Plus, if you run into any difficulties, you can jump on here and we will be happy to help you.

[Elwayno]

Most guys your age should have some friends. If not you gonna need some for when you brake down. So find some guys that are into wheelin or trucks and already got tools. Most guys will help for free. a 2 inch lift should only take an afternoon to put on.

[bufmatmuslepants]

jack stands? pshhh you dont need no stinkin jackstands. just nail some 2x6's together until its about the height you need, thats sturdy enough. or just get a cinderblock. any car jack will work, steal the one from your parents car. walmart or k mart or any cheapo store will have some basic wrenches and hammers, you dont need a full set of craftsman tools in a rollaway, just the will to make stuff up as you go along.

[JayG]

If all else fails, I'm across town, but I've the shop and tools. Be glad to give ya a hand if you wanna bring it over.

[68K20 x Drill]

I see a 60/40 chance of needing a BIG hammer.
If the truck has been wheeled, be aware you may find yourself wanting to fix a few things while you have the springs out. I know I had to repair the sway bar mounting points, and the front spring eye holes in the frame.
The Harbor Freight 1/2" socket set in the black case has decent sockets, most of the ones you will need. The ratchet handle will break when it is time to buy a good one.
Can you get Mom to help? Maybe Dad will change his mind about getting dirty?

[DRobb's_85]

Thanks everyone, yall have been very helpful, I've decided to just get some tools and do it myself like you all have recommended. I talked to my dad and he agreed on helping me. My neighbor might be able to help also..Now the only thing I'm waiting for is money for the tools and lift I'm trying to get a job as we speak... I plan on getting maybe a Tuff Country 3 inch all spring lift with new shocks and later put on 33" mud terrains. Any places online where I can get the lift that have decent prices? Anyways, thanks again for all the help...Btw heres how the old 85 sits as of now. Its gonna look sweet with all the new stuff..

[JAKES 68GMC]

Good looking 85.

[68K20 x Drill]

Find the part number of the lift you want, and Google for that.
You cold get some used 3" blocks for the back for next to nothing at a junkyard, but you would need to get the U-bolts as well. Also you will need a drop pitman are to bring your steering geometry back in line. Skyjacker has one around $75 I think.

[Yukon Jack]

Originally Posted by bufmatmuslepants

jack stands? pshhh you dont need no stinkin jackstands. just nail some 2x6's together until its about the height you need, thats sturdy enough. or just get a cinderblock.

Please don't use cinderblocks - they aren't strong enough for a vehicle - fine for a building but they will shatter under the weight of a vehicle and we don't need a dead boardmember!!!

[DRobb's_85]

I thought that with a lift under 4 inches you wouldnt have to get the steering arm thing? I'd like to stick with a full spring lift as I've heard some bad things about blocks in the back..Also, dont worry I wont be relying on cinder blocks to hold the thing up, theres no way in heck my parents would let me crawl under it with only cinder blocks holding it up..

[68K20 x Drill]

You wont break the steering, but you will likely replace a lot of rod ends, and probably won't have full steering in both directions without it. Unless you stay offroad, then stuff will break, but you won't notice the messed up steering as much...

[Mudder]

I had 4" blocks under my rear from 1986 till this past summer. Have never had any problems with them. Larger blocks can lead to problems but 4" and under you should not have any problems.

[watahyahknow]

i drove in a truck that had re-arched leafsprings and an extra leaf added , the ride was pretty good , the bodylift does give more room to swing a wrench though wish is handy if you need to do work around the trans and stuff

[LONGHAIR]

I'm with Randy (Mudder) on this one. There is nothing wrong with blocks (4" or less) in the rear. I have had several trucks with them myself and put in more then I even care to know for customers. For a street or light off-road driven truck they are fine.......Never, never, never, in the front.

Also, the lumber and cinder block thing...Just say no! and the wimpy little jack taken from someone's car isn't gonna get it either.

Safety is a serious issue, it's never too early to learn the right way. It is far easier to learn it right the first time than to break bad habits.

[DRobb's_85]

Ok, I guess I'll go with blocks in the back then.. but what about axle wrap?.. So its really not too hard to put a lift in one of these trucks? Do you have too take the brakes off or anything else?

[earl87gta]

if you only need 2in of lift you can probly just use helper springs. If i was going to go through the truble of taking the springs all the way of I would go to a 4 or 6 in lift. helper springs ride a little stiffer but its not that bad. then all you have to unbolt is the ubolts on each spring.

[DRobb's_85]

Where can I get some of these "helper springs"? Are they like add a leafs? I dont know if I can stand for it to ride any stiffer than it already does..It'll almost bust your jaw right now on some bumps.

[mothertrucker424]

start now with PB BLASTER or good rust agent this will help i usally start a week before a project and you will be thankful and what size tires do you wanna run because you could do a 2"block in rear and a leaf spring in front for smaller tires or are you looking for some massive meats then full leaf set up is nice and if you want a cruiser i'd recommend leafs in rear since blocks look cheap and if its worth doing its worth over doing just my 2 cents and good luck once you start to learn about your truck it snow balls into larger projects

[bigtruck81]

Originally Posted by Yukon Jack

Please don't use cinderblocks - they aren't strong enough for a vehicle - fine for a building but they will shatter under the weight of a vehicle and we don't need a dead boardmember!!!

if stacked properly, they can be used. i've been doing it for years. i never get under the vehicle without something else supporting at least some of the load though.

[watahyahknow]

i wouldn't do it for sure the chance something goes wrong is to big , my father got trapped under a small european car once when the jack dropped out from under it .
he had the spare tire wedged under the car to make sure it would go down too far when the jack should slip but still had real trouble breathing with the full weigh of the car on his chest and it took 10 minutes for me (i was 6 at the time ) to get an adult to come with me to look wat was going on and jack the car back up again
now that was a real small car imagine what a full size truck would've done to him

ps back on subject when you mount bigger tires youre speedo will be off you need another gear in the autobox to bring it back to a propper reading