clutch linkage problem...

[dan42]

As you can see, the bolt on the end of this clutch linkage is tweaked - I think because the motor was too far forward when it was put in. I am pulling the motor/tranny this weekend, replacing it with a 350/sm465, using the same linkage. Is this a special part I have to find at a junkard, or can I use a hardened bolt? I don't know how it goes into the linkage right now, but I don't want to get to Saturday afternoon and have a special part hold me up. What do I need to fix this?
Dan

[Jim_PA]

It's just a ball with a threaded rod coming out the other end.

[Luvlegs]

I know that is a ball on the inside of the tube - is there a way to "tighten" it back up or a bushing perhaps? Is this something he'll have to replace?

[Ole Blue 68]

Not sure if this will help ya but I've been thinking about this for my own truck...

http://www.brotherstrucks.com/prodin...number=SCL6772

[Jtrux]

Originally Posted by Ole Blue 68

Not sure if this will help ya but I've been thinking about this for my own truck...

http://www.brotherstrucks.com/prodin...number=SCL6772

That doesn't appear to be a replacement for the z bar, just the push rods. But maybe I didn't look at it right.

I was never able to get mine tight either, I just adjusted it before installing it so that it made a decently snug fit.

Was your truck converted from a 6cylinder to a v8. Unless a motor was swapped in incorrectly I can't figure out why it would be too forward. Sounds like a good time to go to a hydraulic setup to me.

[Ole Blue 68]

Doh! I think you're right Jtrux, it does look like its only the pushrods.

[71tahoe]

The bolt looks like it has pulled out a little and you are missing a special washer (unless it is laying on the frame behind the zbar). The bolt has 2 flat sides and the washer has an elongated hole and a tab that fits in the slot in the frame bracket. Kind of looks like the safety catch on the front wheel of a bicycle.

LMC has a blown apart view. Look at #9.

http://lmctruck.com/icatalog/cb/0128.asp

[WorkinLonghorn]

From the Service Manual;

[crazy longhorn]

The nut/stud is out of place, & the top arm on the Z bar has been rewelded(no biggie). I do subscribe to the "rod end club", all the pcs are custom on my LH linkage & they do work sweet with those rod ends. You can build all that yourself, all you need to be is stubborn & cheap(im cheap, but dont call me easy!) L

[rick0312]

check out LMC. just replace that old ball stud!

[bkrscum]

I'm thinking you're missing the #13 part too. It's amazing how that little bugger makes that whole thing work well. I pick up spares anytime I come across them at the junk yards. Good luck!

[dan42]

Can the assembly be fixed while the engine and tranny are in the truck? I don't want this to stop me from putting in the motor this weekend if I can avoid it.

[Luvlegs]

Dan I'll post some pics and carry it to work with me tomorrow

[Luvlegs]

more

[Luvlegs]

more..

[dan42]

Hmmm...I think that my linkage is from an earlier truck and not right for this one at all. Here is a picture of where it attaches to the engine - the motor came out of a '58 chevy pickup, and maybe the bell housing/ linkage is from the pickup as well?? Or will it work? My block that I am putting in doesn't have the two holes that it looks like it needs to atach the correct style. (It's an 82-or so crate motor from Mexico.)

[dan42]

A little better one - is this home made or an earlier style?

[Luvlegs]

not sure, not sure - this'll TTT though.
Are you going to use the part on the block you show in the picture? If you pull the zbar off of the one in the picture, do you know if it's just pushed into the bracket or bolted to it?

[dan42]

Here's a picture of the side of my block. As you can see, there is only one hole above the oil filter. The diagrams and mount for the clutch linkage show a two hole bracket. Am I missing something? What style will work on this motor???
Luvlegs, does the 6 cylinder have two holes for the bracket?

[dan42]

Originally Posted by Luvlegs

not sure, not sure - this'll TTT though.
Are you going to use the part on the block you show in the picture? If you pull the zbar off of the one in the picture, do you know if it's just pushed into the bracket or bolted to it?

Haven't got that far yet - I'll know this weekend though.

[67mater]

I just reworked all of this on my 67. I had only one hole, just like that pictured, and just as there's a threaded ball on the outside there's a threaded ball on the inside. I ahve the ones I took out lying around if you need them or want pictures. Basically a ball threads into the block and a ball threads on the frame and the z bar rides between. I decided, as the z bar is hollow and I didn't want to buy a rebuild kit, to modify mine. I bought two steel bearings that I had to massage into the ends of the z bar, then bought I believe a 6" bolt that matched the thread into the block. The bearings ride on the bolt, and the bolt thread into the block and tightens on the frame slot. Works great so far. Of note is that this all started when the lower arm on my z bar twisted and I had to reweld it, which resulted in a complete readjustemnt of the linkage. I have a spare z bar (I found after I fixed the old one!!!) if that's needed.

[Luvlegs]

The 6 cylinder has two holes for the stand off bracket - but the ball at the block end of the z-bar APPEARS to only be a stud thats forced into a hole in the stand off bracket. I think what 'mater did might be helpful to you if you need to get up and running - maybe permanent even... seems like a better idea than the original.

[dan42]

Mater, that sounds great - it sounds like a pretty good fix - I pm'd you, but did you have to modify the bracket on the frame so that the bolt would fit, or did you just slide the bolt through the frame hole, through the z bar and bearings, and thread it into the frame? I can't tell how big the hole is on my bracket in my '67 right now.

[67mater]

I started with the thread size I needed for the block. I don't rememebr off hand, but I have the ball that threaded in there and could check for you (that's what I used). I then found bearings that had the bolt diameter as its ID and the smallest OD I could find. The bearing OD ended up being a hair bigger than the ID of the zbar, so I carefully ground the outide of the bearing on my grinder down small enough to press it into either end of the z bar (perhaps you can get the exact bearing dimensions, but I was working with what the local hardware store had). I then enlarged the hole on the frame side bracket to accept the larger bolt size, but made sure to keep the lip so the bolt would not pop up (which it may still I suppose). I recall wishing I had gotten a slightly longer bolt and cutting down, as I had to remove a washer I had wanted on it in order to get it to start. I used neversieze as I had a hard time getting the old one out (heat at that point in block?) then I just tightened down the bolt enought to hold.

A better option would be to close that slot in the frame mount, but I haven't had issue yet. The bearings make the bar turn like butter, even with the bolt fairly tight. Plus, the bearings form just as good a seal to keep the grease in as the washer and what not the balls had. I suppose the point of the balls were to allow the engine to "rock" without tweaking the z bar, but I haven't had issue as nothing happens fast with my SM420.

If you need I know I could get the bearings i used.

[dan42]

Thanks - I'm gonna try that. We have a couple places here in town that have bearings, so I'll hunt some down today. I found another zbar at the junkyard so I'll try to post a picture of what I come up with. The only thing I'm wondering about is if the hole on the block will line up with the slot in the bracket on the frame. The ball studs would allow for a little slop there, I suppose. The important thing is that it shouldn't stop me from putting the in the motor this weekend. Thanks for your help - Dan