01-08-2003, 03:18 PM | #1 |
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One Piece Window Kit
In a previous post, a "one piece window kit" was mentioned. I have never run across this kit in any of the catalogs I have. Has anyone installed one that could provide pictures and a description of what is involved to install it? My wing windows are going to require some substantial work and I might be interested in converting to this depending on the cost and how difficult it is to do.
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1972 C-10 LWB, 400/350, 2WD 1972 C-20 Custom Camper, 350/350, 4WD (Converted) |
01-08-2003, 03:23 PM | #2 |
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gmcpaul has a kit for around $300 + shipping. I'd buy anything from him, no question.
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69 C10 2WD LWB Fleet 350/350 power front disc conversion (6 lug disc kit from gmcpauls) and new engine, PS, A/C, fresh fluids, SHE DRIVES! FOR SALE $3900 |
01-08-2003, 03:59 PM | #3 |
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I have read "mixed feelings" on the one piecers. there is many using them with excellent results.
I like the "clean" looks of them.But they are a ways down the road for me. Try doing a search. This subject has arisen many times in the past. There was someone here that had a set they wanted to sell. (can't remember whom though) RON |
01-08-2003, 04:31 PM | #4 |
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Christian's Classics has them for around $300.00 We are getting ready to install one so cann't tell you how hard or easy yet!
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01-09-2003, 01:32 AM | #5 |
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if you use all new parts (ie regulators, etc) then you should be fine. dont try to do this with old doors with worn out parts
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01-09-2003, 11:54 AM | #6 |
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I have done the one piece glass conversion along with power window regulators at the same time. Fairly easy install. Once you remove the wing window assembly, you will need to remove a small piece of metal that joins the inner and outer door shell right where the wing window was. Other than that, easy install in my opinion. I bought mine from: http://www.mothertruckers.net/ He has them on his site for $295
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01-09-2003, 12:00 PM | #7 |
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Pont, it looks great in the photos. Do they seal tight? Is there anything special you have to do with rubber seals, channels etc. that would not come with a window rubber/channel package.
Also, did you replace the regulators or any other parts when you did the install as recommended by nate68?
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1972 C-10 LWB, 400/350, 2WD 1972 C-20 Custom Camper, 350/350, 4WD (Converted) |
01-09-2003, 12:18 PM | #8 |
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Pont, I would also like some details on this and the electric window conversion. Did you use the A-1 window kits? Thanks, LB.
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Just call me LB. '71 Cheyenne, 402BB, hauls blondes, brunettes, or redheads. |
01-09-2003, 01:58 PM | #9 |
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Pont,
Your truck is awesome!
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01-09-2003, 02:39 PM | #10 |
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Here is what I think of them. I think they work ok. Just ok. But then again, my old windows worked just ok. It is not that hard to put in. It takes a weekend or a little more. If you run power windows, you will have to run something for the wires through the door and the cab. I took my doors off and I think that made it a whole lot easier. You will have to drill one hole in the front of the door and it would be hard to get to with the doors on the truck. I would recommend not using the kit if you have aftermarket doors. I had the original doors on it and didn't have all the problems that other people were having. I have since put on an aftermarket door and since then, it hasn't worked very well. The kit comes with everything you need to put the windows in, including all of the felts and window stuff. The scrapers that they sent with it are pretty crappy in my opinion. They didn't fit the shape of the door very well, but they may have gotten better. You do have to cut out the support brace for the vent window which is very easy, but once you do that, there is no turning back. You would have to weld that back in. It is really nice when you are driving because it gives you a much more open feel and it is great for cruising with the windows down and your arm out the window. I don't know if I would do them again on another truck. I would probably make my own window kit. One of the problems that I encountered was that the hinge catch would hit the front channel run. I followed the directions on that topic, but it still hit. For a while I just wrapped elastic around the door hinge, but it was a pain. So I made a bracket and put a spring on the hinge that fixed the problem. No problem with it since I did that.
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01-09-2003, 02:44 PM | #11 |
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Thanks Low68. Where did you get your kit from? Previous posts say the kit is about $300. Does that include everything for both doors or just one?
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1972 C-10 LWB, 400/350, 2WD 1972 C-20 Custom Camper, 350/350, 4WD (Converted) |
01-09-2003, 02:49 PM | #12 |
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I attached a picture of the bracket I made. I welded a piece of steel to the channel run and drilled a hole in that and the door hinge. It works great. Just remember that nothing is perfect. The window is really loose when you have it 1/2 an inch down to 3 inches down. So if you like to just crack you windows, you would probably hate it. Usually, I try to roll them down at least half way. I bought my from mother truckers and bought the power window version of the kit. All that I had to say about the power regulators are awesome. They fit perfect and I have not had any problems with them. I wasn't too impressed with the switches that they came with though. I am glad that I put the kit on my truck. If you like the one piece windows and you have the stock doors, then I would say go for it. Good Luck.
Low68
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01-09-2003, 02:52 PM | #13 |
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It is 300 for just the window kit. THe power window kit is more. I don't remember the price, but I think it was about 200 more. That includes everything(brackets, felts, rubber, glass, etc.) The only thing that it didn't come with that I needed to buy was wire looms, but you won't need those unless you put in the powere windows option. I got my kit from mothertruckers. I was very happy with his service too.
Low68
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01-09-2003, 04:20 PM | #14 |
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$300!!!
Brothers Truck Parts list the power window kit for $700+! Thats with glass and everything. I was out there to pick up a rag joint, and I ask the sales man, di they use the electric window kits from A1 Electric, he said yes. If I bought the kit from A1 and got my glass made from a shop, whatelse would I need? |
01-09-2003, 04:40 PM | #15 |
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You would need all of the brackets, weatherstriping, felts and antirattle strips.
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01-09-2003, 08:44 PM | #16 |
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I also installed a complete one-piece window kit w/ power windows and love the look BUT as Low68 mentioned .. you have to roll the window at least half way otherwise they feel like they're going to fall out.
AND, I just removed the hinge catch all together -- being careful not to let the door fly open too much. Even if you follow the directions and grind -- they still hit the front window channel. I got my kit from Brothers in SoCa.
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01-09-2003, 09:05 PM | #17 |
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MStokes, as low68 mentioned, all felts, rubber, etc come with the window kit and for $300, it does both doors. I did my conversion on the factory doors, mine are not aftermarket doors. I did replace regulators at the same time, I put new power regulators in.
Barn, I did use the A-1 power window regulators. They are made by Electric Life I believe. The one piece window kit that I got from Mothertruckers is actually made by Brothers Truck parts. Same kit. 70c10, are you taking care of my trucks little brother? Looks like your getting ready to go posi from what I read on another post. Let us know how that turns out for ya. Over all, I couldn't be happeir with the one piece window conversion. It's not perfect but still better than stock in my opinion. Like mentioned before, there does seem to be some play in the glass when rolled up near the top but it still goes in the channel and seals fine. I notice this problem when driving at speeds in excess of 35-40 mph but I contribute this to bad, and in some parts misssing, door weatherstripping. I have alot of air coming in the cab of my truck, even with the windows rolled up! I have new weatherstripping but haven't put it in yet.
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01-09-2003, 10:09 PM | #18 |
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I have installed the brothers kit and as so many have said before the travel stops hit even if you follow the instructions. I have yet to adress the problem as it is now if I open the door the windows go up and down perfectly but with the doors shut they stop about half way going up or down. I don't want to remove the travel restrictors but I'm really getting tired and embarassed by the problem. I might try the spring thing someone mentioned. Thanks for the tip.
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01-10-2003, 12:59 PM | #19 |
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Man I just wish they made a kit for blazers! I just wonder how hard it'd be to make work. I'm thinking if one was to make a channel in the top out of a harder rubber, that would act like the door piller, than it would work. Only with the top on you would have to roll the windows down to shut the doors, and then would be forced to have the windows down with the top off.
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01-10-2003, 03:50 PM | #20 |
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I have not done this conversion yet! but another solution to the door stop problem might be to grind it out and use a strap like they do on jeeps! It is just an idea and might not work but then again......
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