Setting up a 64 C10, for show, and tow?

[ElkyRacer]

Ok, Im to the point of ordering parts for my 64 Long Fleet. Going with a 03 model 5.3 from a Tahoe, a 200R4(temp, its fresh, and paid for until I can find a 60 or an 80E and the money to build it) for drivetrain. Looks like Ill be finding a complete front running gear, and rear axle out of a late 70s-mid 80s truck(to convert to disk front and for 5 lug wheels), hopefully a 12 bolt rear. This truck will need to tow about a 4-5k rock crawler Jeep I will be starting on after the truck is done, and still lay the frame when at shows/work(work at a truck outfitters store).

Front will have 2 1/2 drop spindles, Slam RE7s, and will be Z'd however much it takes to lay frame with a 29in tire(max I will ever go with). I will be fabbing an adjustable bump stop, so for daily driving duties, or long trips, if I loose a bag, it wont make the truck un-operable. The problem Im running into planning for is the rear.

I know Im going to have to have a serious notch for that, and I plan on raising the bed floor to clear this. The notch will be over-built from a strength standpoint as I will be pulling the Jeep around, and I plan on the same kind of adjustable bumpstop as the front for safety. Now what I cant figure out is the suspension or bag setup.

Are the stock trailing arms strong enough to handle this load? I was thinking if I moved the bags off of the trailing arms and use a sleeve type bag on top or on a bracket off of the rear end, would that give me enough lift and be strong enough for what I need? I want enough lift to match the front end for around town and getting to the campsites where we will wheel. I do understand this setup wont get me back up to stock ride height but I dont want it in the weeds all the time. Most of the guys getting a good amount of lift I see are running the RE7s moved up on the links/trailing arms getting more lift ratio. I dont REALLY want to go this way as this in my application would stress the links/trailing arms when pulling. I know I could step up the link tubing and other materials and put the bags on the links, but that would still put stress on the bags right? And I dont even want to try that on stock trailing arms!

So what would you guys suggest. I want to order all my stuff after the new years so I can get to work on it but I want to buy once and have everything right the first time.

Any help would be appreciated!
Kyle

[smashingchuck]

just my two cents...

I would suggest a beefy parallel four link, with the bags mounted over or just behind the axle. By keeping the the air bags mounted to the axle, you don't have to worry about putting undue stress on suspension components that don't need to be. With the proper sleeve bag, I think you'll be pleasently surprised at the amount of lift you'll get even at a 1:1 ratio.

I don't know if you could get a sleeve bag that will handle the kind of weight you are going to have... because you didn't state whet the tung weight of your loaded trailer was. Air ride offers a couple different ones, they should at least be able to point you in the right direction. If you have a choice, I would definitely go with the sleeve bags due to the fact that when you aren't loaded it will still handle nicely. I would think with a re7 the ride would be quite stiff with out any weight on it.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by ElkyRacer

.....
Front will have 2 1/2 drop spindles, Slam RE7s, and will be Z'd however much it takes to lay frame with a 29in tire(max I will ever go with). .....
Kyle

Why go 2 1/2"? If your going with 73-87 crossmember, use a 3" spindle. That means 1/2" less on the Z and it might mean more clearence up top.

Have you considered the Dropmember?

[ElkyRacer]

Chuck, Im not sure of the trailer weights or anything as Ive yet to buy the trailer. I will be buying something close to the same as what a buddy has so Ill have to take a look at his and see what the specs say on it.

Reason for 2 1/2 spindles, is.......I already have them! Bought them back before I really had a solid plan of what I was going to do, and I couldnt pass up the price. Now if I come across another deal like that for the 3in I might go that route.

Ive considered the dropmember, but thats a chunk of change that I really dont have to spend on this build. This will be my first bagged project, and if this works out well for me, I will be finding a same bodystyle Suburban that will be a slow build, with more attention to detail and better parts. This truck will be my learning curve and is being built on a budget. But that doesnt mean Im going to skimp on the important parts of this build.

Thanks guys!
Kyle

[N2TRUX]

Cool! that makes perfect "cents". Ok, so you want to Z it to get it on the ground. Do you have the ability to do most or all of the work to the frame?

[Bagged Nissan]

There is a firestone sleeve bag that is a lot bigger and beefier then the f9000 that we are all use to. I'd have to dig for the part number, but here is a quick picture of it. It is suppose to be a better bag, but still not sure if its tow able. I'd probably go with a pair of slam re8's over the axle or behind the axle.

Here is a pic of the firestone sleeves... i'll dig for info and post it too.

[Bagged Nissan]

I cant find it now, the search at ssm is all fubared.. anyways, max fish posted the pn and said they'd work. its a mid sized sleeve bag that is posted above.

[ElkyRacer]

N2TRUX, I will be doing most of the work myself aside from the final welding. I can weld GREAT as long as its flat in front of me. Up/Down/Upsidedown I havent really mastered yet so Ill call a favor in to my buddy who has been doing it for years. Everything else I can do. Im going to cut my own 4 link axle and frame plates, make all the bag brackets, ect ect. Im pretty handy when I have access to a plasma!

BaggedNissan, would a pair of RE8s behind the axle give me the desired lift to match the front, without pumping them up so far as to kill the ride quality? If so Ill just go that route, I was just under the impression that a sleeve bag would have more lift.

Thanks again guys!
Kyle

[XXL]

Originally Posted by ElkyRacer

BaggedNissan, would a pair of RE8s behind the axle give me the desired lift to match the front, without pumping them up so far as to kill the ride quality? If so Ill just go that route, I was just under the impression that a sleeve bag would have more lift.

Behind the axle is going to give you much less lift regardless of bag than if you put the bags on the trailing arms where the stock springs went.

[Bagged Nissan]

Originally Posted by XXL

Behind the axle is going to give you much less lift regardless of bag than if you put the bags on the trailing arms where the stock springs went.

You want to watch where you stick the bag when you're doing a towing application. Especially with stock stamped trailing arms.

Behind the axle is a 1:1 ratio. a re8 bag gets 9.1" of lift if you set it up to fully compress when laid out. it is a 2800 lbs bag, per bag. The f9000 is a 1200lbs bag per bag, so you have to watch towing on them too. The bigger sleeves get more lift and hold more weight, but i'm not sure if its heavy enough to work.

[SCOTI]

I've towed my 74 on my 18ft steel floor car trailer w/my lowered 68.

It had 1.5" blocks, 2600# stones in the stock coil spring mounting location, bolt-in c-sections (that were welded as well for insurance/strength), shorter adj trac-bar, & relocated/modified stock rear shock brackets......

[ElkyRacer]

So how much lift at the framerails do you get in the front end with RE7s? Im thinking with a triangulated 4 link in the rear, with beefy enough brackets and thick tubing for the lowers, I can mount them up away from the rear end to get the lift evened out.

If a pair of RE8s are 2800lbs per bag mounted at a 1:1, how would you calculate what they would be rated at moved up on the arm? Or am I overthinking this? Should I just order the RE8s, do a triangulated 4 link, overbuild the lowers and call it good?