kp components weld in step notch

[Kontrol Phreaks]

Originally Posted by jimmydean

Here is a little better shot. You can see there is a weld-on lower mount on the bottom of the axle tube.

I think it's like this kit:

Actually that picture is of our weld-on rear shock relocation kit. The black truck has our adjustable lower shock/coil over mount that looks like this. The top is the small D tabs welded to the cross tube. You can also use out U bracket that does the same thing as the small D tabs.

[bguild]

Thanks Clint.. I will be calling you fairly soon.. Just need to save up some cash and fix a few issues on my frame.. Question.. I have the stock crossmember where the trailing arms connect too. With this notch nad air ride set up will I have to replace that.. I assume at full dump my drive shaft is going to hit the top of it where it goes through the corssmember..I see CCP sells one that is made for our trucks but can you just modify this one or will the stock be okay. Just need to know before i bolt my cab back on.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by bguild

Thanks Clint.. I will be calling you fairly soon.. Just need to save up some cash and fix a few issues on my frame.. Question.. I have the stock crossmember where the trailing arms connect too. With this notch nad air ride set up will I have to replace that.. I assume at full dump my drive shaft is going to hit the top of it where it goes through the corssmember..I see CCP sells one that is made for our trucks but can you just modify this one or will the stock be okay. Just need to know before i bolt my cab back on.

If your cab is off already...... change that sucker out now. Even if you modify the stock crossmember, do it while the frame offers easier access.

[original_balzer]

Originally Posted by Kontrol Phreaks

Well if you figure that the Porterbuilt currently starts off at $1,300 and most of our rear kits are around $1,250 then you're already at 2,500. There's still going to be more parts required to complete the vehicles suspension and air managment as well. Once we get the kit developed more and into production then we can work on combo set. That way we'll have all the numbers crunched and we can put together a killer deal for the component package. Then I'll do an air managment packs for customers as well to take care of them on that portion of the suspension.

People are already paying an over priced $1,699 for the ART rear kit that doesn't even come close to laying out, and has the worlds shortest pan hard bar ever made. Compaired to our kit that has have more lift, better bags, better ride, a Watts link rather then a pan hard bar, and will lay the truck out completely, there is NO compairson.



This truck was laying sheetmetal like it was a road dot glue to the ground.

HUGE PROBLEM NEEDS AN ANSWER! dont look like any of this will work with a stepside bed! Not cool not cool at all.

[Kontrol Phreaks]

The frame rails are the same between step side, and fleetside.

[Frizzle Fry]

I think he's more concerned about the bedsides.

[original_balzer]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

I think he's more concerned about the bedsides.

yea or the 4 link being where the step goes or the cantilever/bag setup hanging out from under the bed to interfere with the rear fenders.

OH well there is other options for us step guys.

[Black Widow Customs]

So is the rear kit available for the 72 yet? havent seen it on the website

[rex01atv]

I/m also interested in the KP notch, but I/m using CPP round tube trailing arms and c-notch will I have to relocate my bags and shock mounts to make this notch work? My bags are in stock location as well with shocks on a 72.

[babyblueoval]

Originally Posted by rex01atv

I/m also interested in the KP notch, but I/m using CPP round tube trailing arms and c-notch will I have to relocate my bags and shock mounts to make this notch work? My bags are in stock location as well with shocks on a 72.

Rex,

VERY NICE!!

[gringoloco]

To take advantage of the height of the notch, you will want to move the bags. They will be the limiting factor in how low you can go, followed closely by trailing arm/frame interference. Stock style shock mounting becomes unusable not only because you lose your upper mounts, but the angles are very extreme when dropped that low.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by gringoloco

To take advantage of the height of the notch, you will want to move the bags. They will be the limiting factor in how low you can go, followed closely by trailing arm/frame interference. Stock style shock mounting becomes unusable not only because you lose your upper mounts, but the angles are very extreme when dropped that low.

Like Gringo indicated, the OE placement of the bag under the frame will be the limitation depending on how much of the notch you plan to use. I know of a truck that uses the KP step-notch, CPP truck arms w/1.5" blocks, & Firestones in the OE location (board member FilmGuy). He set the notch up so that the bottom of the notch is roughly equal to the top of the original frame rail. When his bag is bottomed out, the top of the 3" axle tube is just resting against the bottom of the notch.

Also..... The stock lower shock mount configuration could prob still be used w/a new upper mount as long as it was set-up w/the correct travel dimensions vs. the bag height (extended & compressed).

[Kontrol Phreaks]

Our rear system is currently in production and is expected to be available for shipping around March 1st. We're also in the process of completing our bolt-on step notch kit for the 63-72 trucks as well. We already have one for the 73-87 trucks. Anyone interested can contact we via email and I can keep you posted on progress of all our early C10 developments.

cpetree@cachassisworks.com

Thanks

[rex01atv]

Can anybody post some pics of a truck using the kp notch and bags in OEM location?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by rex01atv

Can anybody post some pics of a truck using the kp notch and bags in OEM location?

Here's the truck I was mentioning. Enjoy the read . . .....
http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...hlight=filmguy

[66chevy PROSTREET]

that looks simple and clean.........nice

[mtolli46]

what kind oftrailing arms are those in the pictures above?

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Those look to be the cpp trailing arms.

[SCOTI]

Correct; they're CPP's.

[mtolli46]

okay cool cool is i did that same thing with the cpp's trailing arms how low would the truck sit with 22's?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by mtolli46

okay cool cool is i did that same thing with the cpp's trailing arms how low would the truck sit with 22's?

Depends on the diameter. Most likely it won't sit any lower than that regardless of whether the tire has a shorter sidewall (or same size) because the 22" wheel will grow 1" on top & bottom of the axle C/L.

[mtolli46]

alright cool i appreciate your knowledge.

well if i put like 2 inch lowering blocks on those cpp trailingarms wouldnt that make up for the 2 inch bigger wheel?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by mtolli46

alright cool i appreciate your knowledge.

well if i put like 2 inch lowering blocks on those cpp trailingarms wouldnt that make up for the 2 inch bigger wheel?

The truck in the pic has lowering blocks w/the CPP arms. That's why it's @ the limit.

[mtolli46]

oh i gotcha! well what is your opinion on the canti set-up?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by mtolli46

oh i gotcha! well what is your opinion on the canti set-up?

The KP canti-lever will definitely allow for 'laying out'.

From what I understand though (from them), the set-up is not recommended for big power combo's. So.... a stockish small-block that's just a driver, sure. A bad-a torque monster or if you still want to use it like a truck (tow/heavy load) look for something else.

This was back when they first put up the pics so they might have made changes. I would call KP & ask them first hand for the most accurate info.