Here is a "Not Your Typical" 4wd Blazer build

[FormerMember]

Originally Posted by sandking

I would like to see the front suspension (4-link) and all of the mounts. Thanks.

Ok, I'll take pics tomorrow. The mounts are interesting, as I have my tie rod behind the axle... so the upper control arm mounts are 9" tall from the axle centerline. At least I know I have enough separation!

[Rokcrln]

Yep you guys are right about the radius arms binding. Think of the axel and both radius arms as a big sway bar. It works great for up and down but when twisting it will limit some flex. My last Bronco was to that limit and what I had to do for more travel and keep the radius arms was "wrist" the housing it self. I installed a brand new kit at the time that allowed the axel tube to twist separate of the housing allowing for alot more flex. Here is one pic I found of that rig. It also had rear spring pad pivots and a bunch of other mods.



Kevin
LFD Inc.

[sandking]

OK, I see what you guys are saying about the "wristing". As one tire travels "up", it will want to roll the pinion "down". As the other tire travels "down", it will want to roll the pinion "up". This will create alot of stress on the mounts. But what I dont unserstand is the difference between the 4-link and the radius set up. The 4-link will also have pinion change through the cycle creating the same effect, right? You need the pinion to follow the the output of the yoke to minimize u-joint bind and also driveshaft plunge. Whatcha think?

[FormerMember]

Originally Posted by sandking

OK, I see what you guys are saying about the "wristing". As one tire travels "up", it will want to roll the pinion "down". As the other tire travels "down", it will want to roll the pinion "up". This will create alot of stress on the mounts. But what I dont unserstand is the difference between the 4-link and the radius set up. The 4-link will also have pinion change through the cycle creating the same effect, right? You need the pinion to follow the the output of the yoke to minimize u-joint bind and also driveshaft plunge. Whatcha think?

It has far less pinion change and stress on the housing, as the links can move independently, allowing the pinion to stay pointed at the t-case or where ever you point it. They also have another "twist" point in the form of another joint or bushing.

[Yukon Jack]

Very impressive build - your cage looks extremely well thought out.

[sandking]

Thanks. Its not even done yet. Still need more bracing

[fun in dirt]

You have really got it going on there!!!
I like the whole idea of your build. Wish I knew that much about suspension. Hell, I haven't even figured out the capabilities of the suspension on my dirt bike just yet! All that travel is going to be alot of fun. I would love to do a similar concept for my Blazer, but more for blasting down old gravel roads & hitting pot holes/washouts. I can't seem to find many sand dunes & desert type settings around here in central Mississippi Anyway, keep up the good work & take lots of pics for us here. Sounds like from some of the other posts I may not be the only one copying some of your fab ideas

[sandking]

Thanks, I plan on keeping this thread updated as I move forward.

[sandking]

Its just too damn hot here in So. Cal. My garage must be 110*. It makes thing really dificult in this temperature. Anybody want to donate a portable A/C unit??

Anyway, I did not get much done yesterday. I broke out the hoist to cycle the suspension a little more then what I did before with the floor jack. I did not articulate it at all, just up/down cycle. My pinion and plunge is just about perfect through the whole cycle and with a whole whopping 1/4" of drive shaft pluge. I was happy to see the outcome of the pinion angle and plunge.

Mounted the lower coils so the rig can kinda sit on its own. Hopefully next weekend wont be such an oven in the garage. I would like to get the front finished up. I do need a 2wd steering box if anybody has one layng around.

Here are a couple of pics. One of the driveshft up close, you can see the black sharpie mark which was at full compression, then where it is at full extension. I will probably need to lengthen the drive shaft as you can see, But I will wait till after the auto trans is swapped in.......

[sandking]

One more, I just like this pic ..........

[trx450duner]

Very nice build sandking this thing is going to be killer!! I live just up the rode from you and your not kidding on the heat bit this is rediculouse. We hit the sand as much as possible too it would be neat to catch up some time and go for a ride (plus maybe sneak a peak at your truck).

[trx450duner]

One more thing I forgot to ask are you going to box in the radius arm mounts at the frame? I saw the plating on the frame but was wondering if that was going to boxed.

[sandking]

I plan on hitting the dunes, Lucerne and Barstow.

The mounts will be very well beefed up. Those 1-1/4 heims on the end of the arms are mounted to 1/4" 4130 chromoly plate. It will end up being double shear with that same 1/4" plate. Basicaly a pivot box. Everything you see that has to do with the suspension is just tacked in place. I need to finish mocking up everything, cycling the suspension, then I will fully weld and close everything up.

[trx450duner]

That should be plenty strong with the 1/4" chromoly plate, I just saw the one side done and was wondering. Once it cools off we will have to go for a ride we hit all those spots and a few more. Do you have bikes or what do you usually take out?

[sandking]

Yeah, when its done, I will be eager to get it out there to see what it can do. I have a couple of bikes. Had a different offroad truck before this build too.

[FormerMember]

I have pics of my four link.

I don't want to sully this thread, so I'll pm you the gallery info.

Let me know what else you want to see.

[trx450duner]

updates? hows it coming?

[milner]

Wow,looks great. Nice welds also!

[sandking]

No good updates. I am tearing down the front axle and spindles. I ran into a snag with the front hubs. The are Warn, but they dont make them are parts for them anymore. Not a big deal cause they are in decent shape.

I sent my passenger side knuckle in for machining for the cross over steering. Should have that and all of the bearings and seals to rebuild the whole front end. I still need to send the axle to get re-geared. I want to run the 4.86 gears, so the 3.73 needs to go.

I will update when I have something more exciting. Right now, it is just boring, unforseen crap

[sandking]

I would guess that everybody has forgotten about this thread by now, and I dont blame you. It has been and will be a slow build.

After LOTS and LOTS of research, I need to upgrade my front axle to a Dana 60 and the rear to a 14 bolt. For what I want to do, it would be the smart thing to do. By the time I spend all of the money on the Dana 44 with gearing and axles, I could have bought a D60 for less and have a much stronger front end. So, I am now looking for a good buy. Anybody have one laying around??? Although I did get all of my seals and bearings also had the passenger side knuckle machined and drilled for the high steer and the arms. I have spent some money on the 44, but I wont go any further on it.

I just wanted to update this. If anyone finds either one of these axles, just let me know. Thanks!!

[FormerMember]

Pirate is probably your best bet.

[texanidiot25]

Absolutly awesome truck.. I have soft spot for the desert trucks.

[fuzzinator]

thats one cool k5

I would check on coloradok5.com for a 60/14

[LUV2XCLR8]

Nice Cage Work

[sandking]

Originally Posted by grendel

Pirate is probably your best bet.

I look there daily, but some people think these things must be gold plated or something