65 Mojo Risen

[GreyDX]

Hi, I'm new here.
Tom Morgan
Medford Oregon
GreyDX

Just starting a new project. A 65 C-10
I put some before pictures in the welcome section.

I build bikes, so I know how to put things together, but I have no idea about parts options and things like that for trucks. All advice along the way is very welcome.

Here is where I am today

[GreyDX]

Here's a question to start.
If I put a 700R4 on here, do I have to change that crossmember. Other things I should know?

[murdoc]

welcome to the website man!!! looks like you have a good project on you hands, i hope you enjoy every minute of it. the 700r4 conversion will require you to move back your current trans mount several inches, id guess around six, from your 4 speed crossmem. location. i would at the same time convert the 2 piece drives line to a single, if you indeed have a two piece...alot more to it than that but thats where i would start since your down to the frame. also find out what your rear end ratio is, i have heard that many of the 700r4 guys like to go with the 373 rear end, its helps out on the freeway...

[Anthony Fremont]

Cool deal and welcome. I arrived a couple of months ago in pretty much the same boat. I've wrenched on a few cars and my bike, but I was pretty clueless about these trucks. You should like it here, theres plenty of good help available.

[SIR]

HOWDY from grants pass!! little "before and after" sounds like you have a good plan hope to see more soon......

[blackedoutharley]

The transmission in your truck (sm420 if original) does not use a rear crossmember. The trans mount is actually the mounts under the bell housing. The picture seems to show your front u-joint as resting on the crossmember that the e-brake mechanism is bolted to.

From what I can tell, from looking into doing the same conversion to my '65 C-10, you will need to buy or make a crossmember, tailshaft mount, new front driveshaft, add a trans cooler of some sorts and cut out the old bell housing mounts currently in use.

Hope it works out and how about some more pics of your truck?

[GreyDX]

>also find out what your rear end ratio is,

How do you go about finding out what your gear ratio is?

[blackedoutharley]

The easy way is to jack up the rear and mark the driveshaft and the tire. Spin the tire 10 revolutions and count how many times the drive shaft spins then divide the numbers.

Other way is to take off the rear cover and count the teeth on the pinion & ring gear and divide these numbers. (some gear sets are actually maked with the ratio).

[SIR]

are you going to swap out for a 5-lug and power brakes? if you are going to tear it apart you might as well do the up grade.. a "72 up grade" is a bolt in job and well worth it IMHO........

[Chevy Fleetside]

Yes.. for the 700R4 conversion you will need to remove the crossmember that sits under the bellhousing and also remove the parking brake cable crossmember and get one from an automatic truck or an after market. You can find lots of parts using the links on this site or go to www.chevytalk.com and they have some links there also. Some other places are www.truckandcarshop.com and also http://www.classicperform.com/ There is also ece. http://www.earlyclassic.com/ and many many more.

[steverino66]

Welcome - you're in the right place.
Your user name has that Doors song stuck in my head now!

[Chevy Fleetside]

Originally Posted by GreyDX

Here's a question to start.
If I put a 700R4 on here, do I have to change that crossmember. Other things I should know?

I forgot to add... If you look at the picture with the parking brake crossmember. You will see on the bottom rail on the frame there is another set of holes. Those are for the automatic crossmember. They used powerglides ususally for those years. The brake crossmember is in the rear holes. You can use those holes for the 700R4 because it is 1 1/2" longer the a powerglide or TH350...

[Captainfab]

For a trans crossmember for your 700R4 you can use any auto trans crossmember from a '67-'87 2wd pickup or Suburban.

[GreyDX]

Originally Posted by SIR

a "72 up grade" is a bolt in job and well worth it IMHO........

Hey grants Pass!

72 upgrade and 5 lug. That's exactly what I need to know. So that's better huh? Are we talking the rear end and all, or just changing the hubs?

[GreyDX]

OK, rethinking things here (again).

Is there really anything wrong with keeping that four speed?
I like a truck you can shift and although I want it to take off well, I probably won't be doing much real high top speeds.
I'm looking (at the moment) at around 350 hp or maybe a little more. Would it hold up?

[blackedoutharley]

There is nothing wrong with that tranny and the one in my '65 has survived 100K miles behind a stroked small block... in addition to the original 283 for who knows how many miles, a 327 and a big block.

Drain the fluid and fill with fresh (I prefer the Redline MTL) oil and drive it!

At one time I did have 3.08's in the rearend and they rocked on the freeway while the original 3.73's were great from stoplights; the current 3.42's are the best of both worlds.

[Chevy Fleetside]

Originally Posted by GreyDX

Hey grants Pass!

72 upgrade and 5 lug. That's exactly what I need to know. So that's better huh? Are we talking the rear end and all, or just changing the hubs?

You have to use the whole rear end. The axle shafts are longer then the ones in the 65. I have a complete front end from a 75 chevy truck in mine with the 72 rear end. Just bolted the control arms up and redrilled for the idler arm.

[blackedoutharley]

Or buy new axles in drilled in the bolt circle you want for the rear end you already have.

http://www.dutchmanms.com/contact.html


They are Oregon boys like you and they make good stuff that I have used on other cars with no problems.

[DOUBLE-DINGO]

I have a '65 body off project of my own. At the moment there is only brake lines and fuel lines on the frame. Anyhow, before the truck was rolled I drove it with the old SM420 4-speed and easily put 200k on it and drove highway speeds of 70+ with ease. It was powered by a 350. Those transimissions are bullet proof, noisy, but if they're not making noise that's when you need to worry. To me, a truck is not a truck unless it has a manual transmission. The only downfall I can think of to the SM420 is the wide gear ratios. It's either high rpms or lugging, but the granny low can be very handy. I bought a Ranger Overdrive unit and am going to be putting that in to give me gears between gears. It's a gear splitter that goes between the bell housing and transmission. Requires a crossmember mod., shortened front drive shaft, a couple modifications to the e-brake system, and will have two sticks in the cab, but other then that, nothing hugely major. Oh yeah, my axle ratio is 3.54. Highway speeds put me turning 70 mph at 2600 rpm with the right tire set-up. With the O.D. unit I may have to go to 3.73's.

[GreyDX]

Originally Posted by DOUBLE-DINGO

I bought a Ranger Overdrive

Now that sounds interesting. Seems to put your shifter 7.5 in back, I'd have to see if it will clear the seat. I drove an old truck 30 years ago that had a two speed differential. Must be like that. I remember it was pretty fun to drive.

Be sure to let us know how you like it when you get it in.

[GreyDX]

They are Oregon boys like you and they make good stuff that I have used on other cars with no problems.[/QUOTE]

Interesting, thankee kindly.

[GreyDX]

Originally Posted by Chevy Fleetside

I have a complete front end from a 75 chevy truck in mine with the 72 rear end. Just bolted the control arms up and redrilled for the idler arm.

Sir quoted 72 for the rear also. Is there a range that is useable, or is that one just the best for these trucks.

Same question for front ends. Mine looks like crap and I have had some broken u bolts already. I was planning on going through it, but wouldn't mind changing the whole thing if it will make it work better, and I don't mind a little re-drilling.

[SIR]

grey-dx...all the stuff is bolt on with a hol here and there.the rear end is 1' wider than stock so if you have a long bed you will have to trim aprox 1' out of the wheel openining lip not a big deal,I got all my transplant stuff out at centeral point auto wrecking got all this stuff for $175 if your going to lower it this would be a good time to do that it's gonna be apart anyway I have a 3/4 drop on this truck but after it setteled it was more like a 4/4 drop. come over to grants pass the weekend of 7/25-26 for back to the 50's we are doing the car show at the park and it's lot's of fun great cars good people let me know if you need anything else,cuz I just love these trucks!!!

[Chevy Fleetside]

Originally Posted by GreyDX

Sir quoted 72 for the rear also. Is there a range that is useable, or is that one just the best for these trucks.

.

The 71 and 72 chevy trucks came with a 5 lug rear end with coil springs. They are a direct bolt in. 73 and later had leaf springs. 67-70 had 6 lug. Last I remember the axles they sell for the eariler rear end are about $350. That could have changed..

[GreyDX]

Originally Posted by SIR

7/25-26 for back to the 50's we are doing the car show at the park

I will be there!