Cross Member Mod for exhaust?

[kizer]

I was on Early Classic and saw this. Now I'm not in need of it at the moment since I'm not planning on sitting on my frame rails or anything that extreme As well I'm running a 2-piece shaft and a Long Bed.

http://www.earlyclassic.com/Images/t...rossmember.JPG

Tired of dragging the center crossmember of your 1963-'72 GM truck? Early Classic's new Extreme Drop Center Crossmember has solved several clearance problems associated with 5" or more rear drops. Not only does our unit give your chassis 2.5" more ground clearance, it's raised center hoop design eliminates driveshaft interference on trucks with a slammed stance. This Assembly also provides exhaust passages to allow you to run 3" dual exhaust through the center of your chassis and out of harm's way. This black powder-coated beast has been engineered and fabricated from 1/4" thick Laser-cut and formed steel plate to be stronger and more functional than the factory unit it replaces.

As you have come to expect from Early Classic, this component's design also retains factory brake line, fuel line and parking brake cable passages, and is provided with all necessary Grade-8 hardware. (No cutting or welding required.)

(Note: Designed for use on short wheel-base, one-piece driveline pickups with 5" drop or more.)





My question is can you enlarge a hole near the outer edges of the factory cross member to run exhaust though? Maybe even connect the front and rear pieces of the the cross member for additional support? Or are you taking a chance tinkering with the cross member?

[502tripower]

I just used a hole saw on mine.

[kizer]

Are you using the factory Cross member?

Man under your rig looks so clean its amazing.

[protrash64]

My truck has leafs, the exhaust guys cut it out and ran thru the x-member which keeps the exhaust up out of the way. Eventually you will have 3 things low.....your a-arms , the trans pan, and the x-member itself.

[kizer]

So it sounds like my great idea is the idea.

So I'm a little slow. Hahaha

[502tripower]

Originally Posted by kizer

Are you using the factory Cross member?

Yes I am and thanks for the complement.

[Frizzle Fry]

Mine's not purty yet but here's how I ran it. I welded some 3/16" wall x 4.5" tube "rings" in the holes to regain strength:

[ChopperDr]

Do you think the "rings" need to be welded in? Looks like 3" pipe there?
I'm ready to do the the same thing. Tossing the full length headers and going to shortys, then running the exhaust above the trans member and through the cross member then into the mufflers.

Chop

[Frizzle Fry]

Yep 3" pipes. I can't say for sure the rings are needed, but it doesn't hurt. The ECE TA member doesn't have them, so...? A lot of guys put them in just as a feel good measure. I guess it depends on how much power you'll be pushin.

[ChiefRocka]

If I were to cut out the crossmember, I would definately weld in some rings.

[daverod]

Anybody else have pics of what they did to their cross member. How big of hole they cut / how they cut it out/ where there cut it? How they reenforced it?

[ChiefRocka]

I would weld in some rings or tubes...then reinforce with some thin plate...kinda like this:
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Sorry, my 3D paint skills suck....but you get the idea.
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Definately overkill, and only some rings welded in is probably all you need...

[daverod]

Originally Posted by ChiefRocka

I would weld in some rings or tubes...then reinforce with some thin plate...kinda like this:
-
-

-
-
Sorry, my 3D paint skills suck....but you get the idea.
-
-
Definately overkill, and only some rings welded in is probably all you need...

Do you think I should put the holes centered on the old cutouts or make the holes off to the side. Somebody said they cut them out with a hole saw do they make one for metal?

[kizer]

Wow I'm glad this thread came up again because I'm still thinking of doing this.

This time I'll subscribe so I can find it faster. hahaha

[daverod]

Originally Posted by kizer

Wow I'm glad this thread came up again because I'm still thinking of doing this.

This time I'll subscribe so I can find it faster. hahaha

Well hurry up and do it ,take some pictures, tell me everything you would do different. I still don't know if I should drill the holes in close or more to the out side. Then there's the fact that I don't have a torch or a plasma.

[lowest1]

Yes they make hole saws for metal.... I used a 4inch hole saw. I put the holes toward the frame rails where it has the wedge section missing in the middle. I tach welded a piece of scrap metal across the split section so i had a place for the pilot bit to drill on the hole saw. (If that makes any sense)

[tommys66]

do a search for tommys66 build on this forum. There are some pics there of how i did this.

[daverod]

Originally Posted by tommys66

do a search for tommys66 build on this forum. There are some pics there of how i did this.

Finally. You're the one I got the idea from. Then I could'nt find your site again. Thanks Tommy