Can someone explain what I am doing wrong?

[gottwake]

Roger that...

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

Yes, that's what they are saying. Mock your bags up "then" see where you are at.

A 3" block of wood will give you the min bag height & is quick/easy to pull in out for testing. I keep several short 4x2x4 & 4x1x4 pieces for height adjustments when setting up the suspension.

[gottwake]

I thought it was supposed to sit lower? This is the bag installed, it's a dominator 2600.
I can see that the steering is way better at this height, workable with raising the idler and box.

[bb1979]

maybe I should reread this whole thread, but why did you move up your steering components? When you section the crossmember, you do not have to move your steering components.

OK, just reread the whole thing. I am confused on why everybody told you to move the steering up. When you section the crossmember the way CaptKaos has outlined, all the steering stays put. The problem you SHOULD have run into is the inner tie rods hitting the a-arm U-bolts.

The part that may be different for you is when you say "The front of the frame (crossmember forward) was sectioned" I cant quite figure out what you mean by that.

Did you cut the frame at all which might be contributing to your problem? If I am reading this right, all you did was section 1.5". If this is so, I would put all the steering back to its factory location, put the bags in, and see where you're at.

You need to raise the steering the same amount as you sectioned the cross member to avoid altering the factory steering geometry, otherwise it will result in bump steer (also refered to as bum steer) ie when you hit a bump the arc of the tie rod no longer follows that of the control arm causing the vehicle to turn without any input from the driver.

I have looked into modifying my own truck by sectioning or z-ing my rails however I would never be able to get it registered with the laws here in Australia. If it was my ride I wouldn't notch the rails to clear the pitman/idler/draglink. I would z the chassis directly in front of the crossmember by 1.5" thus retaining the factory mounting holes in the chassis, I would even go as far as boxing this section of the chassis (insert crush tubes to mount the steering box and the idler and use longer bolts) to increase the torsional stiffness in this area, I would then z the chassis back down in front of the steering box to mount the radiator support.

In theory this would be structually stronger vs notching the frame and reducing the cross sectional area of the frame behind the box which would also reduce the frames torsional stiffness at that point and given the leverage forces applied in this area as has be shown by cracked and broken chassis rails, and how important this part is on a vehicle it makes sense to make this area very strong not weaker.

Despite the fact that the geometry is altered at full lift or full drop with the bags at least the factory geometry is retained at the drive height. Also it may reduce the issue of having to notch the upper control arm for steering column clearance.

[lolife99]

I know you have a LOT of time in your sectioned crossmember,... But I think I would rethink using it and purchase a Dropmember. Not only will it retain the correct suspension geometry,... I believe Nate corrects all the problem areas of our "truck suspension", with his design. Also, no more cutting of your frame. I know it's a little bit of cash,... but it's well worth it to get as low as you want to go. Give Nate a call.

[gottwake]

I will consider that...if all else fails here. Anyone on the bag height?

[Captkaos]

I t looks like you have the fittings still in the bag and it has air still in it. The dominator 2600 has a minimum install height of 2.8".

[gottwake]

No, the cap is off and there are no fittings in the bag at all.
Hey...does the engine have to be in to get the 2.8" ride height?

[Captkaos]

no, you should be able to compress the bag with you hand down to the lowest height.