Leaking fuel

[eric67m]

I noticed that my truck is leaking fuel. It is coming from the hard line that is on the frame rail. Old and rusty is my guess. I have replaced the rubber lines around a year ago.

I see that classic industries sells steel for $50 and stainless for $90. It looks like the line is 5/16 and a little over 72" long. I checked at a few local auto parts store and could only find lines 69" with flared ends. One of the stores said they could get a 25' coil/roll/spool.

My truck is rusty and has lots of holes in it so it really matches the vehicle but I do not think it is safe to drive it this way

What have other people used to replace theirs?

[Longhorn Man]

look into it a bit closer, it could just be the short section from the fuel pump to the carb.

[eric67m]

Sorry, I should have been clearer. It is leaking under the cab. Around 0-6" forward of where the hard line changes to the rubber line and then back to the hard line and goes thru the cab floor. At the frame rail, above my transfer case.

The roll/spool sounds like an odd way to get this line but would be cheaper. It just seems like it would be difficult to straighten out.

[cdowns]

its easy to work with a knee and a good pair of hands

[Brad]

Originally Posted by eric67m

The roll/spool sounds like an odd way to get this line but would be cheaper. It just seems like it would be difficult to straighten out.

It's easy to straighten out and is very pliable, but it won't have any flared ends so you'll need the flaring tool.

[eric67m]

So go with the roll and buy/borrow a flaring tool. I did not remember it being flared, not to say that it wasnt. Would it be single or double flared?

Does it make sense that it would be 5/16 tubing? I measured the OD of the tubing and it is 0.0315"

[Palf70Step]

6 cylinders use 5/16" fuel line, V8 used a 3/8" fuel line. If your replacing it and it is a 6, I'd personally go with 3/8".

[cdowns]

dont know why you'd need a flairing tool since both ends you just slip rubber hose over them????

[haysonj]

Originally Posted by eric67m

So go with the roll and buy/borrow a flaring tool. I did not remember it being flared, not to say that it wasnt. Would it be single or double flared?

Does it make sense that it would be 5/16 tubing? I measured the OD of the tubing and it is 0.0315"

It could be either 5/16 or 3/8 depending on what motor was stock to the vehicle. check the size coming out of the gas tank. The ends don't need to be flared if you use a good quality hose clamp.

[WIDESIDE72]

Definitely get that gas leak under control. You don't want to go up in flames. I do not believe any of the lines I have ever taken off were flared. I use double clamps when replacing the rubber. (PARANOIA) My dad is a retired pipe fitter and I remember him saying that they would straighten coils of tubing by hooking it to a come along some how and pulling it straight. I forget how he said he clamped the puller to it, though. I will ask if I remember the next time I talk to him.

[Brad]

Originally Posted by cdowns

dont know why you'd need a flairing tool since both ends you just slip rubber hose over them????

OOOPS!!! He's right Eric, I was previously reading posts about brake lines.

[70rs/ss]

A small flare is a good idea to keep the line from slipping the hose off. Not under a lot of pressure, but a small -^- shaped flare to seat the hose/clamp against wouldn't hurt. I have used the longest length of brake line I can buy at the parts store, it is 3/8" and pretty cheap?? Then you can attach a female to hose barb and then the hose will stay put?