disc brake conversion question

[chev-obsession]

i have a chance to get a front end off of a 71 or a 72 chevy suburban, and this suburban has power disc brakes, and i want to put them onto my 69 chevy 2wd 1/2 ton pickup, will this work? what all will i need off of the suburban? also it has power steering too, will this make a difference? (mine doesn't) what would it take to convert that too while im at it? any input would be great!

[PanelDeland]

Take all that and the rear end also( to match wheels/bolt pattern).The power steering will work if the pump brackets are from the same engine.You will want the crank pullet also.Mostly a bolt on sswap.

[chev-obsession]

do you know what parts i will need all together ( a-arms, spindles, calipers, etc.)

[tdave00]

Just unbolt the entire front crossmember from the donor truck with the a-arms and everything attached and roll it out from under the truck. Then swap that into yours.

[chev-obsession]

thats a good idea. how many bolts hold it in place do you know?

[70 Suburban]

If i remember 14

[chev-obsession]

how long should it take me?

[Senator350]

Originally Posted by 70 Suburban

If i remember 14

taDAA!

[Richard8971]

how long should it take me?

I don't mean for it to sound bad but start timing yourself when you start and when you finish, stop the stopwatch. Then you will know how long it took.

There isn't an answer for your question. You will run into your own unique issues pulling it apart and putting it back together again.

Take your time and do it right!

Don

[tdave00]

Originally Posted by chev-obsession

how long should it take me?

Someone who knows exactly what they are doing- probably 30 minutes. Me - an hour or two .

[nightmare]

Originally Posted by chev-obsession

do you know what parts i will need all together ( a-arms, spindles, calipers, etc.)

that stuff, but don't forget to get the proportioning valve and master cylinder. disc brakes require different pressures than the drum brakes.

[my67chevytruck]

just did the swap about 3 weeks ago. swapping crossmembers is definitely the way to go. as nightmare and others have mentioned. get all related parts. front end. rear end. mc/booster , ps pump etc. I have pics of the xmember removed in our 67 build in my sig link.

[70 Suburban]

YOU CAN USE UP TO AN 89 CHREVY FRONT END WITH X MEMEBER. THERE ARE A COUPLE OF MORE HOLES IN THE 73 AND UP BUT THERE ARE ENOUGH TO LINE UP YOUR FRONT END BOLT IT IN THEN DRILL OUT THE REMAINING INSTALL ON THIS ONLY TOOK ME ABOUT AN 1 AND A HALF TO 2 HOURS WIHT THE DRILLING BUT i HAVE IMPACTS AND BIG WRENCHES. THERE ARE A COUPLE OF BOLTS THAT ARE HARD TO BACK UNDER THE ENGINE MOUNTS BUT OTHER THAN THAT IS STRAIHT FORWARD. OHH . KEEP TRACK OF THE SHIMS AND WHERE YOU TOOKD THEM FROM

[chev-obsession]

all righty, well i just wanted an estimated time, im kind of pressed for time since i get off work between 12:00 and 2:30 on the weekends and it gets dark around 4:15 and counting now days. and go to school during the week. i want to get it all at once insted of making 4 or 5 trips to get it. and i dont really want to use a 73 and up front crossmember since i know that the 71 will bolt right in without any questions.

[Jvsapp]

Originally Posted by 70 Suburban

YOU CAN USE UP TO AN 89 CHREVY FRONT END WITH X MEMEBER. THERE ARE A COUPLE OF MORE HOLES IN THE 73 AND UP BUT THERE ARE ENOUGH TO LINE UP YOUR FRONT END BOLT IT IN THEN DRILL OUT THE REMAINING INSTALL ON THIS ONLY TOOK ME ABOUT AN 1 AND A HALF TO 2 HOURS WIHT THE DRILLING BUT i HAVE IMPACTS AND BIG WRENCHES. THERE ARE A COUPLE OF BOLTS THAT ARE HARD TO BACK UNDER THE ENGINE MOUNTS BUT OTHER THAN THAT IS STRAIHT FORWARD. OHH . KEEP TRACK OF THE SHIMS AND WHERE YOU TOOKD THEM FROM

can you elaborate on this? or do you have pics? i have a bro looking to do a brake upgrade on his 70.

[Tx Firefighter]

Here's the skinny,

The front crossmember is held to the frame by 14 bolts, 7 per side.

The disc brake crossmember will bolt perfectly into 12 of those 14 holes. The last two holes are very close , requiring you to egg the holes a bit to get the bolts started.

I usually just bolt the 12 bolts in place to get it all lined up, and use a die grinder with a carbide bur to line the last two holes up.

Now, as far as time required,

I consider myself extremely fast at stuff like this. I did it full time for 12 years. That said, if you truck is assembled with engine and sheetmetal, you aren't going to be doing it anywhere near 1.5 hours.

The crossmember supports the engine mounts, so you will have to hold the engine up while the crossmember is out of place, either by overhead hoist, or floor jack.

Second, the engine makes access to the crossmembers infinitely more difficult.

If I was in a shop with a lift, my own tools, and air for impacts, I'd probably say I could do it in 2 hours if I was really trying to prove something or win a bet.

Your average weekend truck enthusiest better plan on a whole weekend of work because he's gonna want to clean up bolts and eat a slice of pizza periodically and enjoy the process.

[70 Suburban]

hmm what he said

[Jvsapp]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

Here's the skinny,

The front crossmember is held to the frame by 14 bolts, 7 per side.

The disc brake crossmember will bolt perfectly into 12 of those 14 holes. The last two holes are very close , requiring you to egg the holes a bit to get the bolts started.

I usually just bolt the 12 bolts in place to get it all lined up, and use a die grinder with a carbide bur to line the last two holes up.

Now, as far as time required,

I consider myself extremely fast at stuff like this. I did it full time for 12 years. That said, if you truck is assembled with engine and sheetmetal, you aren't going to be doing it anywhere near 1.5 hours.

The crossmember supports the engine mounts, so you will have to hold the engine up while the crossmember is out of place, either by overhead hoist, or floor jack.

Second, the engine makes access to the crossmembers infinitely more difficult.

If I was in a shop with a lift, my own tools, and air for impacts, I'd probably say I could do it in 2 hours if I was really trying to prove something or win a bet.

Your average weekend truck enthusiest better plan on a whole weekend of work because he's gonna want to clean up bolts and eat a slice of pizza periodically and enjoy the process.

so this is with a 89 crossmember and suspension parts? or with a 72? i'm trying to help my bro get his ducks in a line before we tackle this project. if its an 89 i think i might have one lined up. V6 5 speed not worth much, but good for parts. i also might have a pre 88 lined up now too. so if i can get some clarification. thanks, JD

[Tx Firefighter]

The crossmembers that will work for your needs are truck 71-87 and Suburban 71-91. This is the old, square body style of truck. The trucks changed completely in 88 and Burbs in 92. So, if you're talking about using an 89 truck as a donor, you're out of luck.

[my67chevytruck]

I agree with TXfirefighter. pull the xmember from the burb, load it up and take it with you. spray it down with over cleaner from the dollar store, let it set for several hours and powerwash it good. this is also a good time to tear it down and freshen it up (replace balljoints, tie rods, bushing , and paint) i would definitely pull the motor before i attempted this swap, but thats just me... good luck with your swap. the attached picture is what you should walk about with from the surburban as far as the front crossmember goes.

[AustinScott]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

Here's the skinny,

The front crossmember is held to the frame by 14 bolts, 7 per side.

The disc brake crossmember will bolt perfectly into 12 of those 14 holes. The last two holes are very close , requiring you to egg the holes a bit to get the bolts started.

I usually just bolt the 12 bolts in place to get it all lined up, and use a die grinder with a carbide bur to line the last two holes up.

Now, as far as time required,

I consider myself extremely fast at stuff like this. I did it full time for 12 years. That said, if you truck is assembled with engine and sheetmetal, you aren't going to be doing it anywhere near 1.5 hours.

The crossmember supports the engine mounts, so you will have to hold the engine up while the crossmember is out of place, either by overhead hoist, or floor jack.

Second, the engine makes access to the crossmembers infinitely more difficult.

If I was in a shop with a lift, my own tools, and air for impacts, I'd probably say I could do it in 2 hours if I was really trying to prove something or win a bet.

Your average weekend truck enthusiest better plan on a whole weekend of work because he's gonna want to clean up bolts and eat a slice of pizza periodically and enjoy the process.

Well stated! I agree as this is a realistic view on this topic

[72BlckButy]

Follow Tx's post and get to work...

Keep us posted on your progress.

[Jvsapp]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

The crossmembers that will work for your needs are truck 71-87 and Suburban 71-91. This is the old, square body style of truck. The trucks changed completely in 88 and Burbs in 92. So, if you're talking about using an 89 truck as a donor, you're out of luck.

thank you TXfirefighter. this will help alot. also thanks my67chevytruck for the pic. that does clarify it. exactly the same as my 77 so that will make it easier to wheel and deal.

ok second question. will this work taking a c20 to 1/2 ton? i'm hoping the bolts are still in the same place.

thanks, JD

[Tx Firefighter]

Yes, it will work.

[chev-obsession]

i apperciate all of the help, but i know this guy that did one before and he said that was the biggest pain in the a$$ to get that cross member in and out. he said that the frame tweaked when the crossmember was out, have you guys had any trouble with that? also if i were to go the other way... would i only need the brake booster, rotors, calipers, tie rods, spindles and proportioning valve, or do i need the a-arms too?