1/2 Ton Towing Capabilities

[usdabeef]

I will be looking at getting a camp trailer this spring. I dont know much about towing capacities for my 1/2 ton. What would be some things I need to consider when looking at size and weight of the camp trailer which will make it safe for the road. I realize I could spend a grip of money on a really nice truck to pull a big trailer, but I already have a really nice truck...LOL. Thanks in advance for any help you can give on this.

[Camper Power]

the only thing i would worry about is how much the rear will sag, lift kits are designed to have a lot of flex and if theres too much tongue weight, and it doesnt take much considering its a camper trailer, the rear could sag under the weight. im guessing the trailer has brakes.

[69halfton]

good trailer brakes, preferably electric, not surge brakes.

a good brake controler,
a tough automatic or a standard trans
and about 4 miles of room between you and the car infront

the truck will pull fine, get a drop hitch to make sure the trailer sits level when its hitched, and have fun!
take it easy when it comes to stopping, drums do heat up moreso then discs, and you can over heat then quickly trying to stop going down hills etc. (gear down if possible to help avoid these situations)

you will get a ton of looks pulling into the campground with that beast!

[LuckyHenriksen]

Get a big trans cooler (if auto)

[67CHIP72]

What size trailer do you want to get?

[StingRay]

I have towed 9000 lbs on flat ground very easily with a strong 350 and a 373 rear end. I have cargo coils on the rear and a class 5 hitch. The trailer has good brakes and my truck is mechanically very strong on all counts. I wouldn't feel great about trying that in the mountains though. I also do this with a water tank that is perfectly balanced on the trailer. Poor weight distribution can dramatically reduce your ability to safely tow a load.

[usdabeef]

Thanks guys for your input. I think i will focus on a trailer that has a dry weight of around 3800 lbs and get a trans cooler. I will have to post some pics when i get it and show the combo.

[68_Bowtie]

When I lived in Florida, I pulled a 28 foot Prowler travel trailer with my 67 short stepside. Make sure you get the stabilizer bars. They make towing so much easier.

[Ron 586]

Check out this link. I have this system and I tow a 24' enclosed with a 1972 Nova drag car, tool boxes, generator, and all the equipment and parts to run the car, with a 99 1500 Silverardo. http://www.towshop.com/weight_distribution_eazlift.htm I have not had a problem yet but know that I'm stretching the trucks limits. Won't waste your time with dos and donts as it sounds like you know how to handle a load. Just equip the truck with good stuff and enjoy the ride.

[CCCC]

That is a VERY NICE GOOD LOOKING 4x4 and should take care of the pull aspect just fine. But, if you want something a little heftier - you might borrow mine (pic below) - it's a 52 but still pulls pretty well.
Attachment 436008
Seriously - you should have no problems with pull power, and the trans should be fine with a good cooler and judicious use of lower ranges. BTW, some may say otherwise, but I do not recommend bypassing the radiator cooling aspect and just using the trans cooler. I linked one in series and the little booster helped the whole system. The bigger issues towing with a pickup are with control - it's light back there and there will be quite a bit more trailer weight way back behind that light back axle area. Sway often is the biggest issue - more so with coils - especially going downhill a bit too fast. Try to get the back end as reasonably stiff as you can. Have a great time.

[usdabeef]

CCCC......what is the best way to set up the trans cooler when using two electric fans? Also, can i address the light rear end with cargo load in the bed? Maybe i will have the boys at the shop make sure i have a good stiff set up on the rear to avoid sag, and sway. I will definately get an equalizer set up. I am getting excited to haul something other than "ass"

[usdabeef]

Thanks Ron 586 for that link as well.

[Senator350]

Originally Posted by Camper Power

the only thing i would worry about is how much the rear will sag, lift kits are designed to have a lot of flex and if theres too much tongue weight, and it doesnt take much considering its a camper trailer, the rear could sag under the weight. im guessing the trailer has brakes.

FALSE
lift kits are not designed to flex at all. The typical lift kit has VERY arched springs, which don't flex for beans... If your rear is sagging, an overload leaf added to the bottom your current leaf pack will help, and should only add 1/2" or so to your ride height.

You can also play with your leaf pack, replacing short leafs with long ones to keep your ride height and adjust flex. Local spring shops will have really good information and services to provide you with.

Just sayin...

[usdabeef]

I wouldn't think i should sag any if it all. The bed already sits a tad higher (which i dont like), so with some weight on it, I think it should be ok. Thanks for the note, Senator 350

[Skirkpat]

First of all your truck is B. A$$

I would not worry about spring sag, If anything I would worry about side to side stability, The first issue when pulling with lifted trucks is the tire sidewall stabilty, those tires are made for flexing off road, when you pull you want tires that wont flex alot on the sidewall (keep the ass end in one spot!), get a good trailer brake at least, and stabalizer if you can.

I keep this around to remind me howw important a good pulling setup can be be, I literally took a "Crash" Course in it, a friend loaded his 79 Z-28 backwards on a trailer with no brakes , asked me to pull it. We were going about 45 MPH ( because he would not unload it and do it right) Long story short he no longer has a Camaro. Flipped and landed on the car roof, with the trailer still strapped to it, and my truck rear 2 feet off the groud hanging by 1 safety chain, THAT IS 3/4" BAR STOCK

[Skirkpat]

Originally Posted by CCCC

BTW, some may say otherwise, but I do not recommend bypassing the radiator cooling aspect and just using the trans cooler. I linked one in series and the little booster helped the whole system. The bigger issues towing with a pickup are with control - it's light back there and there will be quite a bit more trailer weight way back behind that light back axle area. Sway often is the biggest issue - more so with coils - especially going downhill a bit too fast. Try to get the back end as reasonably stiff as you can. Have a great time.

Good advice, and I love the Truck, Beautiful !

[Boog]

Beef. Your choice of trailer dry weight is good. That gives you quite a choice of travel trailers to choose from. Your truck I assume is equipped with a small block, auto and maybe a 3.73 gear? You almost won't know it's even back there. Your combo should be good to haul up to about 7,000 # using the trailer life tow ratings listings for later model trucks.
Also look for an ultra lite travel trailer as they have aluminum frames and fiberglass construction. Very strong and lite weight. My 1999 26' Rockwood shows uvw on the title as 3,000 #. My 97 GMC with 305, auto and 3.42 gear pulls it real good, up hills too. The weight distribution hitch takes a lot of the bounce out of it too. Enjoy it.

[68C15]

I dont see a problem. heck, you could even go up to 9000# and be OK. as long as you stay off the ice.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=326674

<please dont say anything Shawn>

[usdabeef]

Thanks for all your response. I feel like a towing virgin. At least with the 72 chev. I had a 2000 Dodge Cumins Turbo that I hauled alot of ass and 4 horses. Didnt even feel it behind me. I feel much better now with your input. I found a trailer tonight that has a dry weight of 4200. I will be getting a good trans cooler, trailer brake, and a hitch with stabalization. That should make me good to go. However, when I asked the wife about a matching paint job, she about lost her mind....LOL. She said, "What some little paintstriping?".......NO, i said, It needs to match the truck somehow. I told her we would be rollin' phat through the campgrouds with that set-up. She said the only thing rollin "fat" through the campgrounds was me. "Well, i could go camping with about 135 lbs less weight you keep talking..." LOL
Anyway, i will post a pic when i get it.
Thanks again guys.....and feel free to add anything more. I'm open to any suggestions to safety and FUN.

[chevy29267truck]

far as i know the guys with 1/2 ton trucks are useding 3/4 ton or one rearends

[usdabeef]

"Lord, I appologize for posting a pic of a Dodge truck on here....and bless the starving pygmies down in New Guinea, Amen."

[CCCC]

Hi usdabeef. That pickup of yours really looks GOOD. If it were 4 speed, and 3/4 ton and -- for sale -- I would be calling you.
In reply to your inquiry, I do not know that the electric fans would matter a lick. My comment had to do with the factory type radiator and auto trans setup where the trans fluid is pumped through a cooling jacket within the radiator. Now, I have tried to get rid of ALL my automatic transmission trucks, but with the two remaining I connected the output line from the trans to the input side of the add-on cooler and then connected the output side of the added cooler to the input of the radiator - did not touch the original radiator output line. In this way, the trans fluid is cooled some by the new cooler before it goes through the jacket in the radiator and then back to the trans. Simple fttings are used - piece of cake. Just make certain to fasten everything down to avoid excessive vibration/sloppy lines.

I am not expert on pickup rear suspension characterisitics and mods, but do know a bit about towing very heavy trailer weight with a tongue/hitch ball setup. As others said, you are not likely to get much or any sag with the load you intend. And, yanking the intended weight from a start or even uphill should not be a problem with your truck setup, but any significant flex (sway) can be a quick and big issue. (See the pics posted by Skirkpat).

The two factors, as I see them are: 1. the relative lightness of your truck's rear half (not a lot of weight over the axle/springs) and, 2.the tongue weight and total weight of your trailer. The heavier the trailer, the more the trailer will control the truck under unstable conditions, and especially if the trailer is more heavily loaded in its own rear half (behind its axle(s)). This is where sway can rear its ugly head and, once it starts (especially going downhill) it may take some tricky and sensitive application of trailer brakes (alone - without the truck brakes) to get everything going the same direction in a straight line again. More than 50% (probably around 60%) of the trailer weight should be forward of its axle.

Now, I will grant that pulling almost 20k pounds of loaded trailer behind an 8,800 pound Dodge pickup is not everday fare for most drivers (more Cummins than truck there) but I have learned that it can be done very safely with some stiffness, proper loading and good trailer brakes. Aside from the weight issues as noted, just eliminate as much side give as possible from the rear spring/suspension/tire sidewalls and you should be fine.
CCCC

[68C15]

Originally Posted by CCCC

I connected the output line from the trans to the input side of the add-on cooler and then connected the output side of the added cooler to the input of the radiator - did not touch the original radiator output line. In this way, the trans fluid is cooled some by the new cooler before it goes through the jacket in the radiator and then back to the trans.

actually that is backwards. it should go in the top of radiator, out the bottom, and then through the aftermarket cooler. the radiator tank is hotter than the air in front of it. this way the rad. takes away some heat and then the cooler takes the rest.

I would get a stacked plate design, not the tube and fin type.

[haysonj]

I tow this 4000 lb boat with no problem what so ever but the trailer does have excellent brakes. Surge on the front axle and electric on the rear axle.
I also changed all my running gear to 3/4 ton.

[CCCC]

Well, not to pick an argument (I did say that some would not agree), but there is more than one way to look at this. To quote 68C15:

actually that is backwards. it should go in the top of radiator, out the bottom, and then through the aftermarket cooler. the radiator tank is hotter than the air in front of it. this way the rad. takes away some heat and then the cooler takes the rest

The first thing I want to do is take heat from the trans - thus the trans fluid goes to the "coolest" place first (the add on cooler), then I am putting cooled trans fluid into to the radiator jacket, which, all physical factors included, should - at least - reduce the temp of the engine coolant in the rad a bit (reverse process). The actual bottom line is that physics are physics - and the overall heat reduction will be about the same regardless of route - its a matter of priority. Why did I add the trans cooler in the first place? Fun eh?
CCCC