Dumb driveshaft question

[Mister laugh]

Well i was planning on starting my t-5 swap this weekend, so i went to the yard today to find a driveshaft to shorten because i dumped $500 bucks into "rebuilding" the one in the truck now last year.(don't ask) So there is no point it having that one chopped up. Long story short i get to the yard look under all of the 67-72's they have there (2 70's and a 67') and none of the carrier bearings look the same as mine. So just for kicks i go look under a 73-87 and it looks like mine. I made the decision to take a 67-72, but now in retrospect don't remember my cross member having a place to hang it from. If infact the mounting point for mine is MIA is it possible to flip it over drill the holes on the cross member and mount it "upside down"? Or is it difficult to remove the hangar portion from a truck in the yard?


And i may aswell ask here. The truck i pulled this from had tinted glass (factory) in it, is it worth going back to get? And it was slightly greenish that is the tinted glass right? It had the option on the spid.

[Green Machine]

Do you have any pics ? The larger style hanger bolts mount side to side and the other smaller one mounts front to back. I think 3/4 ton 4 speed had the larger hanger.

[Mister laugh]

Originally Posted by Green Machine

Do you have any pics ? The larger style hanger bolts mount side to side and the other smaller one mounts front to back. I think 3/4 ton 4 speed had the larger hanger.

No i don't have pictures handy my truck is unfortunately 250km away from me, or i wouldn't have asked i would have just checked. But yes the driveshaft on my truck mounts side to side not front to back, and is a HUGE pain in the ass to get in there almost like it wasn't made for the truck. My truck was originally a 4spd but it is a half ton not a 3/4. I think i am going to rig up a way to mount this driveshaft one way of another i like it much better than the larger one. It is easier to install and remove and has less rotating mass.

[jbristo67]

Why dont you just run a 1 piece

[Mister laugh]

Originally Posted by jbristo67

Why dont you just run a 1 piece

My truck is a longbed i have been told by many reputable driveshafts a one piece is too long and will cause binding issues. That and i am a poor colledge student.

[Andy4639]

The only center bearing I have messed with is the one that bolts up in line with the drive shaft.
The one on the right is for a 71 two peice shaft I know.



LEFT PICTURE '73 to current Ford, GMC, Chevy, and Dodge trucksRIGHT PICTURE '58 to '64 Chevy cars and '58 to '72 Chevy trucks

[Mister laugh]

Originally Posted by Andy4639

The only center bearing I have messed with is the one that bolts up in line with the drive shaft.
The one on the right is for a 71 two peice shaft I know.



LEFT PICTURE '73 to current Ford, GMC, Chevy, and Dodge trucksRIGHT PICTURE '58 to '64 Chevy cars and '58 to '72 Chevy trucks

The one on the ledt is what was on my truck currently. Apparently it occasionally came in 4spd half tons. The right is what i have on the driveshaft sitting in the garage.

[brad_man_72]

so instead of putting a new trans yolk, shortening/lenthening ballancing a 1 year old shaft. youre going to rebuild a junkyard shaft? that will probably need shortened/lenthened, all new u-joints, slip, stub, ballance, maybe trans yoke, maybe end yokes, maybe retubed, and reengineer a carrier bearing mount?
sounds pretty backwards to me.

[Green Machine]

The "side to side" bearing is a much stronger design than the little one that bolts front to back. Unless you run one of the better ones on the right, we have one on one truck, but the bearing and aluminum housing are about $100.
I'm prettty sure you could grind the rivets and remove the old mount and replace it if you want to.