removal of wheel cylinder nut. - Page 3 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

madaca · 06-12-2009, 09:52 PM

I took pictures. I will have to post them later but they look like the picture on the first page. I see no leaks and the fluid level stays the same so i know I'm not losing fluid. I thought It was air in the line but I have bled several times and the fluid runs solid. The MC is original as far as I know. The flex lines look ok but I do plan on changing them later. I really feel that I just need to adjust the brakes more but don't want to adjust them to tight against the drum.

502tripower · 06-13-2009, 12:56 PM

The shoes should be adjusted so they are just making contact with the drum. I assume you do not have the self adjusters? You can purchase them you know. I didn't read the whole thread so if I am repeating I apologize. I did see that you figured out that the big nut does hold on the wheel cylinder. This was used on passenger cars as well. Good Luck with your project.

madaca · 06-13-2009, 01:45 PM

ok I messed with the brakes again today and soooo much better. I feel better now that the truck will stop more responsively. Adjusting the brakes until they just drag did not work. The brake pedal would go all the way to the floor and still the truck would not come to a complete stop. So i adjusted until the drum stopped and then backed out some to where I could turn the drum with my hands but there was still a good amount of drag. Now the truck stops real good. I dont have to press the pedal all the way to the floor. It starts to get firm about half way and then if I need to really stop on the dime It goes about 3/4 of the way. It is much more responsive now. Can I adjust the brake pedal as well? If so how? Thanks for the feedback again. I am much happier now.

Oh and I do have the self adjusters but not sure if they work. I cleaned them up real good when installing the brakes. Do you just keep backing up and stopping to adjust them?

502tripower · 06-13-2009, 10:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by madaca

Do you just keep backing up and stopping to adjust them?

Yes

Rodie40 · 10-08-2016, 10:53 AM

I know this is an old thread, but has anyone found a place to get the washer that is behind the wheel cylinder bolt? And what torque on the bolt?
Thanks, Dan

06-12-2009, 09:52 PM	#51
madaca Registered User Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Longview, tx Posts: 145	Re: removal of wheel cylinder nut. I took pictures. I will have to post them later but they look like the picture on the first page. I see no leaks and the fluid level stays the same so i know I'm not losing fluid. I thought It was air in the line but I have bled several times and the fluid runs solid. The MC is original as far as I know. The flex lines look ok but I do plan on changing them later. I really feel that I just need to adjust the brakes more but don't want to adjust them to tight against the drum. __________________ Grandpas truck, my dream. This is my truck. There are many trucks like it but this one is mine. 65 Chevy C10 Fleetside

06-13-2009, 12:56 PM	#52
502tripower Registered User Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Satsop, WA Posts: 606	Re: removal of wheel cylinder nut. The shoes should be adjusted so they are just making contact with the drum. I assume you do not have the self adjusters? You can purchase them you know. I didn't read the whole thread so if I am repeating I apologize. I did see that you figured out that the big nut does hold on the wheel cylinder. This was used on passenger cars as well. Good Luck with your project. __________________ 1963' Chev Custom Cab 502, 67' 435hp 3X2 intake, 9" 4:30 Posi 1961 Impala SS 348/350 4-speed 3:70 Posi 1961 Bel-Air Bubble Top 283 Turboglide soon to have a 348 3X2 4-speed 1950 17' Fairliner twin cockpit barrel stern 312 Y block 1X1 intake Borg Warner 1:1 gear 1957 Fleetform 14' twin cockpit barrel stern 1969 BP-125 Merc 1949 Transitier 3-wheel forklift Crosley 4-Banger 98' FXD 2002 2500HD

06-13-2009, 01:45 PM	#53
madaca Registered User Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Longview, tx Posts: 145	Re: removal of wheel cylinder nut. ok I messed with the brakes again today and soooo much better. I feel better now that the truck will stop more responsively. Adjusting the brakes until they just drag did not work. The brake pedal would go all the way to the floor and still the truck would not come to a complete stop. So i adjusted until the drum stopped and then backed out some to where I could turn the drum with my hands but there was still a good amount of drag. Now the truck stops real good. I dont have to press the pedal all the way to the floor. It starts to get firm about half way and then if I need to really stop on the dime It goes about 3/4 of the way. It is much more responsive now. Can I adjust the brake pedal as well? If so how? Thanks for the feedback again. I am much happier now. Oh and I do have the self adjusters but not sure if they work. I cleaned them up real good when installing the brakes. Do you just keep backing up and stopping to adjust them? __________________ Grandpas truck, my dream. This is my truck. There are many trucks like it but this one is mine. 65 Chevy C10 Fleetside

10-08-2016, 10:53 AM	#55
Rodie40 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2015 Location: Raleigh, NC Posts: 6	Re: removal of wheel cylinder nut. I know this is an old thread, but has anyone found a place to get the washer that is behind the wheel cylinder bolt? And what torque on the bolt? Thanks, Dan __________________ 1966 Chevelle SS 396 1970 C-10 project (for sale) 1984 Chevy C30 Ramp truck My YouTube

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