Im dumb...rookie move...

[tim21391]

i got to excited and in a hurry when i did my bondo on my corners... i didnt scuff the whole surface so i laid bondo out and got driver side all done... then i move over to passenger side and start beating the metal and working the metal and bondo starts chipping out im like what the heck.. i look and i see i didnt scuff it.... now i got to go to both corners and strip it all off... isnt that just upsetting i was almost done to....... oh well glad i found it now then after paint

[tranz am]

what kind of filler are you working with and how much hardener are you using? I have dripped body filler on fairly smooth painted surfaces on accident and I had a hard time getting it off. I use a product called rage gold.
If you use too much hardener it dries too quick and might be part of the problem. Also you are suppose to work with the filler on metal thats not too hot.

[Southern C10]

I got one better. I bought my 72 GMC short bed two years ago only about 30 hours before getting on a plane back to Iraq. After my trip I returned home and drove the truck, with absolutely nothing wrong with it, 2 miles down the road and back. Then because it wasn’t Hugger orange and the 72 Chevy I wanted I spent 6 days completely tearing the truck down to the frame.

Now I have looked at it in a pile for two years while the body man worked his magic and my engine guy did his bit. All the time wanting to drive it.

I should have enjoyed it more before starting the resto. I had no idea how long it would take to rebuild the truck.

[tim21391]

its this stuff called midway 180 i think.. i like to go with this evercoat with kevlar in it first.. its dark green... then this stuff is yellow then i finish it off with skim coat... but when i put hardener on i start in the middle then go to the edge.... its been aboiut 70 some degrees when ive been doing this.. i think im going to get some 36 grit and knock it all down just to be on the safe side

[tranz am]

Try Rage Gold, Its proven! Never heard of Midway 180.
Probabbly a good Idea to get it out of there.
if you have a torch you can heat up the metal and go at it with a pudy knife.
Just dont get it too hot or you can warp the metal.

Originally Posted by tim21391

its this stuff called midway 180 i think.. i like to go with this evercoat with kevlar in it first.. its dark green... then this stuff is yellow then i finish it off with skim coat... but when i put hardener on i start in the middle then go to the edge.... its been aboiut 70 some degrees when ive been doing this.. i think im going to get some 36 grit and knock it all down just to be on the safe side

[tranz am]

wait, so your coating the metal first with a primer? Just lay that filler on bare metal.

[tim21391]

no its not primer.. the first stuff is dark green.. its reinforced with kevlar... so i used that its like 25 bucks a quart... then i used the midway.. the i just skim coat it because its easier for me to use it as a final thing because thats when i can use like 180 grit paper.. its just easier on me.. i use 80 grit all the way to skim coat then use 180 to knock skim coat down... that way scratches dont show.. but i dont gotta torch so im just gonna have fun getting dirty sanding it all down haha

[tim21391]

36 grit will knock it down in about an hour or two..

[Cdeno0001]

I usually like to put a light coat of figerglass over any welds, or anything i feel may have a risk of getting water behind it then DA it down. U don't have to do this, i just feel safer. As for the mud, I've never heard of what u are using either, and i agree Rage Gold is the best, but the price has grown much. Zgrip is really good, and cheaper, sands about the same, and has the same technology as far as gripping the metal/ substructure as rage does.

I put mine over bare metal. They like u to put it over epoxy primer, but nobody does. Reason behind the chem reaction of hardener/filler creates heat, thus could create some moisture on the bare metal equalling rust of time (thats the theory). However, most rough up the bare metal 36 grit or 80 then start whiping.

I prefer fiberglass over welds etc as above, Mud knocking it down w/ 80 a few times (blocking), then i use a good Glaze putty and 180 all final sanding before priming. GL

[Cdeno0001]

BTW, spending extra money on a good product like Rage Gold or ZGrip will save lots and lots of time sanding, and money on paper ha ha

[Mordachai]

Originally Posted by tim21391

its this stuff called midway 180 i think.. i like to go with this evercoat with kevlar in it first.. its dark green... then this stuff is yellow then i finish it off with skim coat... but when i put hardener on i start in the middle then go to the edge.... its been aboiut 70 some degrees when ive been doing this.. i think im going to get some 36 grit and knock it all down just to be on the safe side

wait, you said when you put hardener on, you start in the middle and then go to the edge?

do you mean you are putting the filler on first, then putting the hardener over the top?
that would explain your problem right there.
you are mixing the hardener into the filler before you put it on the body right?


oh, and products like rage(gold or extreme) and z-grip are well worth the money.

[tim21391]

ya i put the filler on my board then put the hardener on then mix it then apply it on truck..guy at local body shop said the midway is new and is about same as z grip for a cheaper price

[Cdeno0001]

cool never heard of it. some of that stuff is junk and like sanding a brick house. They Keystone Gold filler isn't bad, its supposed to be the same as Rage Gold but i don't think it is. but its not bad.

[tranz am]

If your going to spend the time shaping body filler use the best you can find! I would use something thats been around for a while and proven . Using a new product is risky business when it comes to something like body filler. God only knows how long it will last. just my opinion

[Mordachai]

Originally Posted by tim21391

ya i put the filler on my board then put the hardener on then mix it then apply it on truck..guy at local body shop said the midway is new and is about same as z grip for a cheaper price

I thought you weren't mixing it before you put it on the truck, and that would def be a problem.

and tranz am has a good point, with the new products -vs- proven products.

[chas350]

Did you lay your bondo over cured, unsanded smooth glass? If so, I believe you are right about the cause.