Power steering box spacer on a 1970 Chevy

[lts70]

I installed the power steering setup on my 70 chevy when I was 10 years old. What i did no ealize at the time was that I did not need to use the frame spacer that came with the set up as I had removed it from a 64 chevy tha did not have the little indent. So 17 years latter I am greasing my ront end and I notice that I have the spacer inbetween my frame and steering box. Do I need to remove it? The truck does seem to turn sharper in one direction, I cant remember which. Could that be why?

[dan42]

Yes, that's probably why - just remove it and it should work fine.

[Longhorn Man]

that is exactly why it does that. It turns tighter to the left than to the right becouse the box is not centered. This can also wear the gears faster and leave you with a junk gear box.

[breeh]

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

that is exactly why it does that. It turns tighter to the left than to the right becouse the box is not centered. This can also wear the gears faster and leave you with a junk gear box.

Not to cause problems but I don't see how this can be. '69 and up have a u-joint in the steering shaft so there is no problem offsetting the steering box. If the box can be turned from lock to lock then I don't see how the turning radius can be affected by an offset of the box. I would be more likely to believe that you have some other steering geometry issues.

No offense intended to LHM.

[Longhorn Man]

none taken.
Picture the front end as from above. the left tie rod is X inches long, and the right one is X inches long.
Now, move that box to the left 3/8 of an inch.
Now one side is 3/8 too long, and the other is 3/8 too short.
Most people will just turn the input of the gear box till the tie rods reach (now the box is off center... a BIG no - no) then remove the steering wheel sinc it is now crooked and put it on straight.
99% of the people will not make the adjustments properly.
The fact that he can steer further in one direction than the other verifies it was not done properly.
Remove the spacer, center the box, adjust tie rods to fit, and get it to an alignment shop.
The gears in the box are hardened in the dead ahead straight ahead position, since 99% of it's life is spent going straight. Since the truck has been going 3/8 in to the right since the original poster was 10 years old (safe to assume he is over 20 now) that slight right is now probably worn down.
If the steering feels sloppy, then the damage is done... esp if it still feels tight in the other direction.

[breeh]

I'm getting most of what you are saying. I have spent most of my time with 4x4's in which case you can simply adjust the drag link. I am going to have to go and stare at a 2wd and try to visualize this. Couldn't you just adjust the length of the tie rods to bring the steering box back to the appropriate center?

[Classic Heartbeat]

Couldn't you just adjust the length of the tie rods to bring the steering box back to the appropriate center?

You could (as long as there is enough adjustment in the tierods, but in this case why would you. All he has to do is to remove the shim.
The 2wd front ends are different than the 4x4 front ends in the way that they opperate. The steering on the 4x4 has a front to rear action, and the 2x4 has a side to side action. That is why you can shim the gear in a 4x4 and not a 2x4. The gear on a 4x4 could be 2" out (not that one would be) but all you would have to do is to lengthen the drag link to get your full steering range back. If you didn't all that would happen is you would turn sharper in one direction than the other, but still when gaing strait down the road your gear would be in center. 2X4s have a large tie rod that attaches to the steering gear and moves from left to right, so moving the steering gear away from the chassis will result in off centering the gear and in order to travel strait down the road you will not be in the center of the steering gear. WES

[breeh]

Wes, I see what you are saying about the tie rod length. The only reason that I can see why you would want to leave the shim doesn't apply here since it is a '70.

LHM and Wes, thanks for the great discussion. I hope that the OP got what he needed from this!

[jsmithbm]

good info!! I just bought a p/s setup from a 75. I have not tried to install it yet. Hope it will work. Gotta a good deal on.

[Classic Heartbeat]

Wes, I see what you are saying about the tie rod length. The only reason that I can see why you would want to leave the shim doesn't apply here since it is a '70.

Oh, my bad, I thought that you were thinking that the 4x4s and 2x4s are simeler. WES

[lts70]

Thanks guys, I will pop her out. Can I use it on my dads 67 to add power steering or will it mess up his gears as well. What do you guys do to add PS on the frames that don't have the indention?

[jsmithbm]

i've heard that the ones that do not have the dimpled frame, not sure exactly on the years but i think its 68 and below. There are several spacers that some people on here sell REZ is one and captainfab is another. I think i have read every thread on here about upgrading to p/s. g/l

[Longhorn Man]

the above posts by Wes and myself are the exatc reason I always say don't use a spacer.
67's don't have the dimple, and some 68's didn't.
I always recomend heating up the frame rail and putting your own dimple in the metal.

[breeh]

When I built my '68 4x4 I did not want to "heat and beat" so I used the spacer kit. Now I know better. Adding the shim just compounded the already weak steering box mounting issues that the 4x4 trucks have.

[Longhorn Man]

yep. the 4X4s are known for cracking there when stock... let alone when you add more leverage.