12-27-2009, 01:29 PM | #1 |
The Black Pearl
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Brooks Alberta Canada
Posts: 63
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P.O.R Question
I bought some P.O.R to do my new front end parts. Upper and lower a arm shafts. tie rods inner and outer. pitman arm etc.. Just wondering if anyone has used this stuff on new metal. I planned on using metal ready ,then p.o.r then chassis black as a top coat as recommended. just wondering if this is a good plan or not. The rest of my chassis is powdercoated black. Does anybody have experience with P.O.R and New Parts ?
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12-27-2009, 01:55 PM | #2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: daytonabeach
Posts: 22,956
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Re: P.O.R Question
i've always blasted new parts to give some texture for the POR15 to adhere to as it doesnt stick so good to smooth new metal
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71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY |
12-27-2009, 02:44 PM | #3 |
The Black Pearl
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Brooks Alberta Canada
Posts: 63
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Re: P.O.R Question
Thats going to be a pain, since i aready have my a arm shafts intalled on the freshly powdercoated a arms. Also i would have to take all parts to my sandblaster guy. And i'm also thinking my threads on my tie rods would look weird if i left them bare, but if i paint them with p.o.r i'll never be able to adjust them. I'm starting to realize why the majority of the guys on this site just leave them bare metal. Maybe i'll be better off just getting some good automotive paint in a spray bomb and spray them black to match the black powdercoat. Maybe P.o.r would be best in a different application? What do you think?
I know i'm getting a little anal but i do not want to have to redo any parts especially all the new parts once finished. A good spray paint properly applied might be good enough. especially because this truck will not be a driver. It will be a weekend warrior and trailor princess. |
12-27-2009, 09:17 PM | #4 |
The Black Pearl
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Brooks Alberta Canada
Posts: 63
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Re: P.O.R Question
Has anyone used P.O.R on new steel?
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12-27-2009, 09:49 PM | #5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 1,374
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Re: P.O.R Question
I've also been blasting any parts before applying POR15, but the instruction sheet does give details on recommended procedure for new/smooth metal.
I would give them a call, the number is on the por15.com website, and ask them how best to handle what you want to do.
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1972 C10 LWB, 350/350 Deconstruction began 5/2009, mostly completed restoration, 5/2017 |
12-27-2009, 11:19 PM | #6 |
Suburban Hick
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Altoona, IA
Posts: 810
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Re: P.O.R Question
I painted a new set of springs with por 15 and it didn't turn out so hot. On the other hand everything that was blasted turned out great. I did the entire frame, axle, a-arms, and everything else in por 15 and love the way it turned out.
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Mathew 1947 Chevy 3600 1951 GMC 100 1969 Chevy C-10 396/500hp TH400 lowered 4" 1968 Imapla Custom 396/325hp TH400 "Grandmas Car" 1976 Crew Cab 4x4 diesel http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=488505 1978 Chevy K-10 454 1983 S10 4x4 "Bumblb" (Grandpa's truck) 1993 Chevy S10 V8 conversion 1990 Ford Probe Gt 1992 Dodge W-150 "Old Man's Truck" 1992 Pontiac Grand Prix SE 1992 Mercury Grand Marquis-Mercruiser 2000 Ford F150 (Currently my mother drives this) 1946 Farmall H with Stan Hoist loader 1965 John Deere 110 1961 Wheel Horse " Rat Tractor" |
12-28-2009, 01:23 AM | #7 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Missoula, MT
Posts: 273
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Re: P.O.R Question
This is just a suggestion. On the inner and outer tierod ends...I wouldnt go through that much trouble and cost to paint them with chassi black and por...stuff isnt cheap plus those are a wear item so you will end up replacing them eventually. If you do so feel inclined to go the extra mile I would just tape off the threads and then paint them however you choose. On the thread side..get yourself a bottle of anti-seize and be liberal with it on the threads....your alignment guy will thank you. This naturally coming from a certified alignment tech good luck and keep on truckin
PS. from what I have read in numorous threads and their own website, POR15 will not stick to bare metal, its made to adhere to rust. So if you just simply coat it...it will go on but will peel off shortly after however they do offer what you stated metal ready allow it to work.
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- 1967 Chevy C10 shortbox - 1984 Chevy K10 "Mater"- SWB 305 manual, retired sheriffs truck, Current Frame Off Project - 1986 Chevy K10 LWB 350/350 Daily Driver/project |
12-28-2009, 02:20 PM | #8 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Kirkland, WA
Posts: 1,302
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Re: P.O.R Question
Just use epoxy primer on clean metal, I use SPI and it works great.
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12-28-2009, 02:30 PM | #9 |
Project '67 454
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Columbia SC
Posts: 283
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Re: P.O.R Question
If you go with a rattle can Rustoleum gloss black enamel matches gloss black POR-15 very well.
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12-28-2009, 11:03 PM | #10 |
The Black Pearl
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Brooks Alberta Canada
Posts: 63
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Re: P.O.R Question
Thanks for all who replied. I decided to go with some black gloss engine paint i had kickin around. I couldn't bare the thought of redoing if the p.o.r didn't stick.
What is epoxy primer? Is that just ordinary primer before you paint. |
12-30-2009, 11:32 PM | #11 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Kirkland, WA
Posts: 1,302
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Re: P.O.R Question
Quote:
http://southernpolyurethanes.com/Tec...y%20Primer.htm Epoxy primers remove the need for acid/etch primers. http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/solv...an-143345.html They even sell it in rattle cans now! I have had epoxy primer on my chevelle fenders for a year now in the elements, and it's going strong. Won't rust through because it's non-porous, and it won't degrade rapidly in UV like POR. IMO it should be the first coat on any metal surface. Last edited by crakarjax; 12-30-2009 at 11:35 PM. |
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