LFD's low buck truck build!

[Dudewith4x4]

Kevin. I know its proably to late but do you have the 327 emblem from the glove box you listed for sale awhile ago? I really could use it I have plans for it. lol.

Thanks man.

[mcbassin]

Kevin,
How do you like the new brakes? I assume they were worth the extra bucks?

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by Dudewith4x4

Kevin. I know its proably to late but do you have the 327 emblem from the glove box you listed for sale awhile ago? I really could use it I have plans for it. lol.

Thanks man.

Sorry but that is long gone!

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Kevin,
How do you like the new brakes? I assume they were worth the extra bucks?

Not really sure, when they are cold that do not stop great but when they are warm they work great. I think the clamping power is better but the pads they come with are too hard and not a great street pad. I plan on going with a better stock compound and I think it will be really nice.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[marcsRX]

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

Well I am a big enough man to admit that yes I have a shorty! Acually I have a few

I layed out the frame and some control lines to adjust things by. The factory placed alot of layout holes along the frame and when used for measure points they work great. Their were two right along side the section to be removed so I used those. They are 20" apart and what I did was scribed a line right on the back edge of each one and double checked each one for the 20" dimention at the top and bottom.

Then I layed out the 45* cuts and stabilized the rear of the frame with some scrap steel and clamps.

Then I cut the frame section out and V'd the edges for the fillet weld's. Next I used two pieces of angle to clamp the frame back together and checked my 20" mark and it was now down to 8".

I made sure the frame bottom edge and side was flush and placed a tack weld on the outer corner to hold things in place.

Then I used the braces clamped to the rear of the frame to adjust things up or down (with my free Hammer) ever so slighty to get the 8" lines right at 8" top and bottom and then I tacked the top as well.

Now I will leave it like this untill I put new cab mounts in and place the bed on sor a test fit of everything.

In the next few days I will start on the rear flip kit, shock mounts and hidden hitch.

Kevin
LFD Inc.
$1127.64
68hrs

So in doing this, does the cross member where the rear trialling arms attach end up 12" further under the cab? Is this how a non modified SWB cross member is?

[sweetnlow67]

FYI i found some of the butt weld clamps at roadkillcustoms.com they have a set of 6 for $9.95 with shiping ends up being $13.90, at northern tool you only get 4 for $15.00 here is the link http://www.roadkillcustoms.com/hot-r...ls.asp?id=1732

[Bugeyev8]

I have been going to Marty for about 20 years, the truck hanging there is his buddys HS auto shop project, the rest of the truck is at the guys house, I don't know how Marty is doing these days...I was told he was terminal stage 4 cancer a few months ago, I hope that is not true but thats what the guys at the shop tell me...

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

Well I got all my front end parts today and got started tearing into it some more. I got the new A-arm cross shafts and pitman arm from Marty over at "East Bay frame & axle" in SanLeandro (510-569-4285). I have delt with this shop in th epast and they are all hot rodders. I went their last week to run my frame splice by them before doing the work and they said it was right on par. I will be taking Low Buck their for it's 4 wheel alignment and I will take my camera this time. They have a cherry fully rebuilt SWB chassie hanging from their ceiling in the main shop! Also Marty told me he would do a LWB to a SWB conversion for about 1k (frame and suspention only) if any one needs a place to go.

Then off to napa auto parts for misc parts I needed like new wheel bearing, seals, frame rebuild in a can (rust tough ), parts cleaner and new front brake lines. I had all the ball joints and steering parts from my other truck that have never been put on so now it is Low Bucks turn.

I spent 2hrs tonight pulling the A-arm shafts out and removing the ball joints. I used my elect impact to get the cross shaft nuts off and my grinder and air hammer to remove the top ball joints. I then went into the shop and put about 45ton's of power to the lower joints to pop them out. Then I went to the car wash and cleaned things up before starting to spray on some gloss black.

The susp parts that I already had with the steering parts were about $450 and the new complete cross shafts and pitman arm were another $321.57 and then another $55.21 at Napa. I hope to get some time on Sunday to put it all back together.

Kevin
LFD Inc.
$2015.42
77.5hrs

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by Bugeyev8

I have been going to Marty for about 20 years, the truck hanging there is his buddys HS auto shop project, the rest of the truck is at the guys house, I don't know how Marty is doing these days...I was told he was terminal stage 4 cancer a few months ago, I hope that is not true but thats what the guys at the shop tell me...

I hope not he is a hell of a nice guy!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[Rokcrln]

Well LOWBUK just got more expensive. It has never ran as strong as I felt it should but still ran real good, that was until last week. It started to ping under load and that turned into a miss shortly their after. So first I put in some octane boost and fuel cleaner hoping that would help thinking I might have gotten some bad gas and it does sit a lot. Well that did not help and it kept getting worse. So I checked all the sensors (with help from a friend) and found they were all working correct. Then we checked the fuel PSI and my friends gauge read 25psi! Cool found the problem because it should be 43-48psi so we changed the regulator and filter and it now read 38. Well when I picked up the gauge the needle moved so I taped it and it went right to 44psi. Cr@p that just told me the gauge was bad and I just spent $45 bucks for nothing.

So the next day I decide to do a comp test and all was good at 150 in all 8. No I am felling it is what I thought but did not want it to be the Dizzy cap and rotor. I pulled the water pump and balancer to even get to the cap and when I got it off I found water/oil in the bottom 3/8" of the cap that had rusted and corroded some of the contacts. Problem found, now time to solve it right. I decide to pull the Dizzy and sure enough the bearing is bad and the Opti has been wet a bit as well. So I order a new Dizzy from ALL Ignition (great price at $159 complete and sealed with a vacuum vent line) and start checking out other things while I am waiting on parts and find my water pump is bad (also shot bearings) so add another $220, then add new plug (Taylor 8.5m $70) because I do not want to go back in their later. Then I decide I need to change out the seals in the timing chain cover so this does not happen again right so I have to drop the pan to get the timing cover off only to find a very slacked timing chain so add another $109 for a lunati from summit. I think I should put in a new set of plugs or at least clean these while it is down. They are the new E3's and only have about 3-4K on them. All the parts will be here Friday so I hope to get it all back together Saturday and test it out.

As down as I am for having to spend the money for this right now I am really looking forward to how it should run after this. I feel their have been small problems since day one with this motor being it sat on my shop floor for almost 6 years before being fired up in this project so who knows what was real going on. I will let you all know what happens soon.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[killer71]

It's always something! Keep us updated!

[Ackattack]

I think the optispark is the biggest downfall to an otherwise great engine.

A few years ago when I want to go fuel injection on my 72 GMC I considered it, but after more research, I steered away from the LT1s and installed a TPI 350.

I must say though, this 5.3L is WAY WAY better than that TPI engine.

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by Ackattack

I think the optispark is the biggest downfall to an otherwise great engine.

A few years ago when I want to go fuel injection on my 72 GMC I considered it, but after more research, I steered away from the LT1s and installed a TPI 350.

I must say though, this 5.3L is WAY WAY better than that TPI engine.

There is an LS1 coil pack conversion package out there for the LT1 to eliminate the opti. I considered doing it when the opti went out on my 95. I ended up with the MSD replacement opti unit instead.

For how cheap 5.3's are now it almost isn't worth it to fix an LT1 any more. There was a complete 5.3 swap package for sale here last week for $400. I paid more than that for my MSD opti.

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by Ackattack

I think the optispark is the biggest downfall to an otherwise great engine.

A few years ago when I want to go fuel injection on my 72 GMC I considered it, but after more research, I steered away from the LT1s and installed a TPI 350.

I must say though, this 5.3L is WAY WAY better than that TPI engine.

I agree but I have had this motor sitting since about 95 before all the problems were as common as they are now

Originally Posted by 68 TT

There is an LS1 coil pack conversion package out there for the LT1 to eliminate the opti. I considered doing it when the opti went out on my 95. I ended up with the MSD replacement opti unit instead.

For how cheap 5.3's are now it almost isn't worth it to fix an LT1 any more. There was a complete 5.3 swap package for sale here last week for $400. I paid more than that for my MSD opti.

I fully agree but I felt it would be a cheap fix to put in a new Opti (also you still need the opti for the coil pack trigger with the conversion) and then it turned into water pump, timming set and a few other seals, plugs wires and for all that it still runs like sh!t We have checked everything we can think of and still it is missing and popping off idle but over 2000rpm it runs like a raped Ape! I have a complete 5.3L with S&P harness, computer re-flashed and everything needed to get it running but it is in my Tahoe. If I knew the LT1 was still going to run this way I would have done it but now I feel I am too far into it to pull the plug right now. I had E3's in the truck and after new plug wires I went out and checked it last night in the dark only to find every plug was sparking to the cylinder head. So we put in some platinums today and it did not make a difference in how it ran so I will check for arching again tonight once the sun goes down.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[Hart_Rod]

Was/is the fuel pump new? Have you checked the voltage to the pump? Maybe a bad ground causing some low-voltage and erractic fuel pressure? Also, I had an O2 sensor that caused similar symptoms. Some how or another it got some water in the weatherproof connector and was screwing up the signal from the O2 sensor to the computer. I did just about everything you did prior to figuring it out..... Just some thoughts.

[TonyJohnson]

Opti's aren't that unreliable. The main problem is that they sit under the water pump weep hole, and if you have a pre-95 model, they aren't vented. Problems can be avoided by using a 95 up version and being very careful with water around the opti. Some guys threaded the weep holes on the water pump and put a small hose to route water past the opti, as well. The opti eliminators work very well, but are relatively costly, needing either 4 or 8 coils, depending on which you get.

The LT1 is a very strong engine and can actually take more cylinder pressure before lifting the heads than the LS engines. The LS heads flow MUCH better, though...

[sourkraut]

kevin, i have just read your whole build thread on low buck and have to commend you on outstounding work and a awesome truck!

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod

Was/is the fuel pump new? Have you checked the voltage to the pump? Maybe a bad ground causing some low-voltage and erractic fuel pressure? Also, I had an O2 sensor that caused similar symptoms. Some how or another it got some water in the weatherproof connector and was screwing up the signal from the O2 sensor to the computer. I did just about everything you did prior to figuring it out..... Just some thoughts.

43 psi at manifold (key on motor off) with a New intank factory pump. I will check o2, ECT and TPS Monday. I just checked and I still have spark arching at the cylinder heads.

Originally Posted by TonyJohnson

Opti's aren't that unreliable. The main problem is that they sit under the water pump weep hole, and if you have a pre-95 model, they aren't vented. Problems can be avoided by using a 95 up version and being very careful with water around the opti. Some guys threaded the weep holes on the water pump and put a small hose to route water past the opti, as well. The opti eliminators work very well, but are relatively costly, needing either 4 or 8 coils, depending on which you get.

The LT1 is a very strong engine and can actually take more cylinder pressure before lifting the heads than the LS engines. The LS heads flow MUCH better, though...

Yes my replacement Opti is the vented version.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[TonyJohnson]

Sounds like your wires. Arcing is a common problem with LT1s. Use MSD 8.5mm SuperConductors and set the plug gap to .045". The bigger the gap, the greater the chance of arcing. Make sure to use dielectrical grease on both ends of the coil wire. I've also got a used opti that's supposed to be good as new. Got it from a friend, so I believe it was when he gave it to me almost a year ago. It's sitting in a box in the garage. If you want to try it, I'll be happy to send it your way. Just PM an address.

One of the best LT1 tech resources - Shoebox http://shbox.com/1/how_tos.html

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by TonyJohnson

Sounds like your wires. Arcing is a common problem with LT1s. Use MSD 8.5mm SuperConductors and set the plug gap to .045". The bigger the gap, the greater the chance of arcing. Make sure to use dielectrical grease on both ends of the coil wire. I've also got a used opti that's supposed to be good as new. Got it from a friend, so I believe it was when he gave it to me almost a year ago. It's sitting in a box in the garage. If you want to try it, I'll be happy to send it your way. Just PM an address.

One of the best LT1 tech resources - Shoebox http://shbox.com/1/how_tos.html

Thanks Tony, I will be trying another set of wire's to see if that helps. Also thanks for the offer of the opti but mine is new (plus I really don't want to pull everything apart again) and should be good? I will check out the link as well.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[Rokcrln]

I wonder how much time I would get for shooting my own truck

I give up! Today we changed the temp sender and it ran just as bad and then I put on new plug wires because the new Taylors were arcing out to the heads and now it will not even start????? I checked all plug wires and they are correct, checked all connections and they are all made, have 43psi at the fuel runners and plenty of battery power but it now will not even start. I am so done throwing money at this thing. It is not like we just tossed on a bunch of new parts with out finding problems with the old ones but it is just not meant to be. So now I am thinking of steeling parts off the Tahoe build since it is just sitting their with no finish date in site if at all. I have so many other builds going I have just lost interest in the Tahoe and have other pressing builds to do so why not.

I have the 05 5.3L with 4L60E just sitting their with 20k miles. Brand new harness and re-flashed comp from S&P along with all the Drive by wire parts and pieces to get it all going. All I should need to buy is a EFI pump that will fit into my existing 87 blazer tank and engine mounts.

Then I can take the 700R4 I have in Low Buk now and use that in my son's F1 with a 351W EFI motor to replace the tired C5 that is in their now. I can also use the Cruise control out of Low Buk for the F1 since the 5.3L has it all in the computer wired and ready to go. I can also then pull the complete AccuAir system out of the Tahoe and set that up in my Son's F1. If the tire size and BS fits I may also run the 20/22" rims and tires off the Hoe on LowBuk. I would need to get the rear axels and drums drilled for the vett pattern and change or re-drill the front rotors as well.

Then I can sell the Tahoe project as a roller of as a shell and keep and sell the frame and rims separate. So I am not sure if this will all happen this way but I sure am leaning towards that right now.

Sorry I had to vent and blab out loud!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[watahyahknow]

wat does the tahoo need to get finished ?

you might blown up the current opti by using wires that havent got the right resistors in them , this might allso explain the arcing , get the dizzycap of and check if the points on it arn't burned off
had sumtin simulair happen to me with a car they used aftermarket wires without the propper plugcaps wich caused arcing inside the distributorcap

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by watahyahknow

wat does the tahoo need to get finished ?

As of right now it needs the rear doors finished (hinges and latches), shocks brackets made front the rear, rear caliper brackets (four link bars are in the way of the stock caliper brackets) and then just all the regular stuff like wiring, body work, interior and final assembly.

I will check the cap and rotor when I pull the motor The wires were the right ones for the Opti-spark set up but who knows.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[camokid]

Well I hear your frustration, and as much as I wouold hate to see the tahoe come to a hault, it sounds like a great plan to me. Sometimes cutting your loss with something like you have will make it better in the long run. One of these weekend i need to drive up and check out this tahoe before it leaves to get my inspiration back.....

Keep it going..

Jeff

[68 TT]

You may figure out what is wrong with the LT1 after you get the 5.3 transplant done on low buck and the whole LT1 drive train that you have spent so much time & money on could go into the Tahoe to recover some of your investment.

Even if it still has the arcing problem at least it would have a running drive train in it when you sell it off.

[watahyahknow]

that makes sence it prolly sell faster if they dont have to tow it

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by camokid

Well I hear your frustration, and as much as I wouold hate to see the tahoe come to a hault, it sounds like a great plan to me. Sometimes cutting your loss with something like you have will make it better in the long run. One of these weekend i need to drive up and check out this tahoe before it leaves to get my inspiration back.....

Keep it going..

Jeff

Tonight I pulled it back apart to check the cap and rotor and it all looked perfect. I had my Napa parts guy order in the ICM because that is the only thing that has not ether been replaced or tested. But ether way the 5.3 will be going into it at some point. It will just be an all over better package and I can now upgrade the power with a controller or SC or ????

Originally Posted by 68 TT

You may figure out what is wrong with the LT1 after you get the 5.3 transplant done on low buck and the whole LT1 drive train that you have spent so much time & money on could go into the Tahoe to recover some of your investment.

Even if it still has the arcing problem at least it would have a running drive train in it when you sell it off.

Yes I will still try and figure it out and if I do then I will sell the engine as a complete drop in package minus trans.

Originally Posted by watahyahknow

that makes sence it prolly sell faster if they dont have to tow it

If I sell the Tahoe it will be body only, no frame or funning gear. I will keep the C4 suspension for another project.

Kevin
LFD Inc.