72 Blazer 6 inch lift

[dnandez]

Hello, I am new to the blazer thing and I just bought a 72 K5 and put a pre owned 6 inch lift on it. Now it wonders all over like crazy. I have been told that if I take out the front shim in the spring pack it will be fine. Is this true?

[72Levi]

Pics of your lift would help us, brand etc... BTW you will get hammered here for offering something for sale unless you pay the yearly fee.

[Critter]

I agree with 72Levi, you can't sell things without being a registered member. Just letting you know.

As far as the steering goes, I don't think it's necessarily causing your issue but could be contributing, did you change the steering arm to one that will compensate for a lift? If you don't you steering geometry will be off considerably.

[dnandez]

Sorry about that. Its a skyjacker all spring 6 inch. And it has a small triangle shim with the fat part twards the front of the rig.

[dnandez]

Yes I changed the steering arm to a 6 inch steering arm

[sdailey]

Two things here..

1. You have to be a site supporter to list items for sale here. Click on the link below for more information about supporting the board.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...t.php?f=3&a=17

2. The problem with your steering sounds like an issue with your pitman arm. Did you install a drop pitman arm when you installed the "new" lift or are you running your stock arm still? With 6" of lift you'll have to install a new pitman arm to compensate for the change the lift made to your steering.

Edit: I guess I type to slow. It looks like the steering arm issue has been mentioned.

It now sounds like you have the rear springs mounted up front. It that true?

By the way welcome to the board.

[dnandez]

72levi that is a real clean blazer you got. It is the same color as mine and it looks like fresh paint. Do you know what the original color is or the paint code?

[dnandez]

Originally Posted by sdailey

Two things here..

1. You have to be a site supporter to list items for sale here. Click on the link below for more information about supporting the board.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...t.php?f=3&a=17

2. The problem with your steering sounds like an issue with your pitman arm. Did you install a drop pitman arm when you installed the "new" lift or are you running your stock arm still? With 6" of lift you'll have to install a new pitman arm to compensate for the change the lift made to your steering.

Edit: I guess I type to slow. It looks like the steering arm issue has been mentioned.

It now sounds like you have the rear springs mounted up front. It that true?

By the way welcome to the board.

Thanks for the welcome. I took it off. The springs are mounted out back like their suposed to. it still has the propper sag about an inch and a half to two inches.

[turp mcspray]

I also run a Skyjacker 6" lift. The shim is to help with the driveline angle. Unfortunately it also reduces the amount of caster in the front end. The reduced caster is contributing to your front end wander. With a 6" lift, you really need to go to a crossover steering setup. When I go "wheeling" I have very little left turning radius when the left front wheel is drooped. I know several people who have gone to a crossover steering setup, and it has solved their steering and wandering problems. My blazer is in the rebuild process, and crossover steering is in plans. Hope this helps.

[dnandez]

Thank you for the input. A crossover setup is in the works. But how is that going to fix the caster?

[Jtrux]

Explain the wandering. Does it occur when you hit bumps? When you lifted it did you put larger [used] tires? If so are the tires unusually worn? Did you have an opportunity to drive it before the lift and have similar symptoms? Did you get an alignment?

One very important thing to consider here is that fact that your truck is 37 years old. What condition are the balljoints, tie rods, steering box, leaf spring bushings, steering stabilizer (if it has one), bearings?? If any of these are worn, adding a 6 inch lift to the truck will stress these components even more which will amplify any ill behaviors the truck may be exhibiting.

I don't think caster is the issue. Those wedges don't change it that much.

[dnandez]

Ok, when I did the lift I purchased new tires, ball joints tie rod ends,spring bushings, body mounts, stering stabilizer(dual), brakes all the way around and I had it alighned. It drove perfect and tracked well also. And yes it seems like bump steer but the dual steering stabilizer I bought helped a little over the stock one but it still wonders.

[72Levi]

dnandez, yes all stock Blazer and the color is Ochre, original paint and still looks good, thank you for the compliment. I would bet you have issues with the pitman arm and the 6" lift. np with me listing your parts its the rules I guess, take care. Post more pics of your Blazer, we would like to see them.

[Jtrux]

I have no idea what else it cold be, steering box maybe??

[vtblazer]

Get rid of the shims, for safety's sake!

Better on the back (still a bad idea) but even worse on the front.

[OldCreek]

Why are shims bad on the back? I need a lesson.

[vtblazer]

Originally Posted by OldCreek

Why are shims bad on the back? I need a lesson.

They squirt out and leave you with loose u-bolts trying to contain the axle.

[dnandez]

Thank you for the info. I will try to remove the shims this weekend.

[bowtie72]

I would leave the shims in there. If you remove them it will change your steering. The caster shims will hepl your steering wheel return going around corners. If you have power steering you will want these. If you have manual steering it probably wont be a big deal.

As far as safetys sake if you retighten your u-bolts after 250-500 miles and torque them to specs and not just use an impact these will not come loose. The only way you can lose one is if your u-bolt comes loose.

Shims in the back will help drive line angle. I could be wrong about this but just trying to help.

[vtblazer]

If they're such a cure all, then why wouldn't they have been installed at the factory for these purposes?

Shims are nothing more than a band aid.

[Burt4x4]

Originally Posted by vtblazer

They squirt out and leave you with loose u-bolts trying to contain the axle.

This has happened to me, rearend. Aluminum shims SUCK, they crack and squirt out rounded off my spring perches from the free movement. If you must use shims get steel!

[dnandez]

Thank you guys very much. I have some food for thought.

[dnandez]

Originally Posted by vtblazer

If they're such a cure all, then why wouldn't they have been installed at the factory for these purposes?

Shims are nothing more than a band aid.

I kind of agree with this. My factory springs didnt have any shims in the spring pack and it drove great. put the shims in with the lift..... drives like crap.

I took out the shims cut off the outer knuckles, clocked the housing and rewelded the knuckles on last night. I took it out this morning and it drives a ton better.

Tonight....... Clocking the rear end relocating the spring bushings.

[bowtie72]

I agree shims are a band aid. Your on the right track to get rid of them. This is what alignment shops do to "quick fix" it. When you lift something you have to compensate for the steering geometry to be correct. Thats why they use shims, and thats why they aren't in there from the factory. There aren't alot of guys out there willing to do what it takes to correct the issues. So they go the cheap route and use shims. Good luck Should be alot better when you get done.

[dnandez]

I took it out for its maiden voyage and it now drives true and straight. No more shims. I cut off the knuckles and clocked the axle put everything back to factory caster then I also cut off my rear spring perches and tilted it up for a better rear driveline angle. Had a one ton driveline built. Man she drives great. Now its time for the 502 and break it all and make it tougher