The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network







Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Go Back   The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network > 47 - Current classic GM Trucks > The 1967 - 1972 Chevrolet & GMC Pickups Message Board

Web 67-72chevytrucks.com


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 05-09-2003, 11:48 AM   #1
andyr354
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Mahaska, KS
Posts: 82
propper routing of heater hoses

This is on my 70 with out AC. What port should the heater hoses go to, and what is the direction of flow. I assume out of the intake and back into the water pump (this is a short shaft water pump). One hose is conected to a bung on the front water passage on the intake, other hose dumps right back to water pump.

Also I would like to add a manual shutoff valve to the system to shutdown some inside heat on warm day drives.
__________________
1970 C10: 2WD, LWB, 350, 350 auto, Headers, Duals, Edelbrock 1406 with 2101 intake, and optional rust.
andyr354 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2003, 12:15 PM   #2
Blue Beard
Registered User
 
Blue Beard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Washington State
Posts: 8,831
Are you still using the A\C?
__________________
1970 Chev CST
2003 Harley Fatboy
1975 Chevrolet Step Van
1956 Chev Bel Air
1977 Blazer 2WD For Sale $3000.00
1978 Blazer 2WD For Sale $7000.00
1978 Silverado
2005 Monte Carlo
Blue Beard is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2003, 12:20 PM   #3
COBALT
Senior Member
 
COBALT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Seattle, WA, USA
Posts: 5,817
Yep, that's right. Just remember that the fitting on the intake (hence the size of the hose) is 5/8" standard. As you said that's the output to the heater core (bottom?). Fluid pressure forces the fluid up through the core to the output to the water pump. The input to the water pump is 3/4" (again, so is the hose).

Pretty simple. I've installed, and re-installed, and re-installed fittings, cores, and hoses on my truck so many times I think I could do it in my sleep. Normally I just get about a 3' length of both hose types, + some clamps to go with it - 4 5/8" clamps, because I usually install a flush tee on the 5/8" side for flushing. I run the 3/4" from the top of the heater core straight to the water pump. Easy. The 5/8" I cut into two pieces, run a piece from the heater core to the flush tee, and clamp them. Then I run the other piece from the other end of the flush tee to the intake. Clamp those. There - I'm done.

The only sticky parts are:

1. Getting good fittings for the intake/water pump. Most of us have a mix of metals: aluminum for intake and cast iron for water pump (unless you've gone aftermarket on your water pump as well). I've found that using the basic thin walled steel fittings you buy at NAPA (not the cheap ones in the rack but the ones from behind the counter) ALWAYS seal right and fit right. I use the liquid sealer with teflon, and let them set up for a few hours before adding coolant and starting the engine. Don't use brass mixed with aluminum and running fluid. I've also had bad results with chrome fittings.

2. The necks on the eater core can sometimes be easy to crack and cause a leak when you're putting the hoses on. They just like to bend. Therefore I use some water soluble lube (don't laugh....KY works great) to make sure they slip on without me damanging them.
__________________
'69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400
'69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual
'99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe
Seattle, WA.
COBALT is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:25 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 1997-2022 67-72chevytrucks.com