The Blue Goose

[usmcchevy]

If you spin one tire and the other doesn't move=open diff/non-posi. However the pinion should spin when you do this, if it doesn't that means you got other problems.

Lookin' good on the rims!

[oldblue1968chevy]

well whats worrying me right now is someone said that with the yoke on the pinion missing it could've screweed stuff internally up...idk yet..havent got the cover off I just wanna hurry up and get my slots and bed on lol shoulda just bought conversion axles from ECE because.,.

my rearends already cleaned balsted painted, my rearend is the gear ratio I want..everything but 5 lug..I coulda justified 3 big ones for that I think.

[oldblue1968chevy]

OK, Got my cover off today. I do in fact have 373 gears. Pinion felt tight but I dont have a yoke on it yet...what other models have the same yoke? All the gears looked good (to my standards, not sure what im exactly looking for). They didnt have any teeth missing had some funny looking scratches on em. Heres some pics, the passenger side brake drum sounds like somethings loose (?brakes?). I'll check it out later. Im on the fence about this. Some say dont run it it gonna blow up. (Was used as a trailer and the yoke was missing when i got it (who knows maybe someone neeeded one and that hunk of junk in the fencerow had one?)

Heres my thread about this:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=402827

1-Should I run it and see
2-should i chuck out 300+ to buy conversion axles for my rearend (already painted and new rear gasket)

[VA72C10]

I'm definitely not a gear expert, but for peace of mind, I'd recommend to use the conversion axles or find another complete 5 lug rear. I'd rather not get a truck together and then have a failure leaving me stranded...

[2manyprojects]

With the yoke missing your preload is screwed. At a minimum I would have a pro check it and set it up if they think the gears look OK. You still might have a damaged noisy rear if it was run for any distance like that. You could just buy axles by the time you spend the money to get that one right.

[oldblue1968chevy]

Ok im getting different people telling me different stuff. Think I could score a rearend or conversion axles at a goodguys swap meet? Never been but I think im going this weekend with a new classic car/truck friend and the GF.

Thanks fellas'

CCP/ECE Has conversion axles. Which Co. should i go with?

Should I just buy axles and studs? Should I get axles drums and bearings/seals or what?

Im thinking Just get axles and reuse the old drums (depending what they look like) What about bearings? Thanks!!

[classic1967chevy]

wow that sounds like something i would do with the JB weld ... keep up the good work

[classic1967chevy]

hey man just get u a wire wheel and go to town on it and then when u get done throw you some rust prevent on it B4 painting it

[oldblue1968chevy]

what're you talking about man lol

[oldblue1968chevy]

Well, long story short Dad had to take something to the machine shop so I decided to take my short block to be built.

Dropped it off today..still undecided on heads, right now i have 75cc stock heads

May run vortecs I dunno yet. All new bottom end (stock/balanced) may run keith black hyper$#%^$ (cant spell em) pistons. The man that owned it suggested 269 comp cam kit. Ive heard I can only run so much lift with the vortecs...should I buy brand new ones from summit or find used ones and have them rebuilt? Thanks!

Here is the link to my engine stuff..

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=403546

And a pic of the gf driving the goose

[VA72C10]

she's not camera shy huh...

Depending on machining costs I'd probably get the summit version of the heads that already have the work done to them. I'd also check around with the machine shop to see if they have any heads that weren't picked up/paid for that they'd make a deal on or check craigslist for new unused parts....a lot of people giving up parts for cheap right now because they're struggling to get by.

[oldblue1968chevy]

Ok im looking at summit catalog..


GM $559.00 -64cc fast burn combustion chamber 170cc intake runner high velocity lt1 port design they require the use of vortec intake and self aligning rocker arms will accomodate up to .480" lift cam and come complete with 1.94" intake 1.50" exhaust valves springs,retainers,and 3\8" pressed in studs, rewuires centerbolt valve covers.

Summit is $649- 67cc combustion chambers, intake exhaust valves as listed 1.25" vavle springs good to .520" lift scrwe in studs retainers and locks, the vortec heads require vortec style intake and centerbolt valve covers..

Can I call up some junkyards and see what a used set of heads would be, heads AND valve covers?..

Why would I rather go summit vs GM and would I be EVEN BETTER off using junkyard heads and having them redone..

Do I need 350 vortec heads or what size motor? What years did they run the vortec motors? 95-99 or something? Thanks as always

Oh and the GF wasnt used to the clutch and squealed tires on accident then it stalled and died lol (she was wearing seatbelt, the pic was taken after it was stoped)

[Hubscrub]

the bad thing about it my wife knew how to drive a straight shift before i did i learned on the old firetruck when i joined the volunteer FD

[matchstick]

I will build your motor for FREE and help you with everything you need. I think you can buy the aluminum ProComps for around $650. Give me a shout.

[oldblue1968chevy]

Haha thanks matchstick...its at the machine shop I wont know anything till they soak it and take it apart and magnaflux it and check for cracks etc..

What heads should i go with matchstick?

[oldblue1968chevy]

heres some of the stuff i got today,any tips on putting in rear cab supports and corners? Got a shirt and a few other misc thigns and freebies also, got some sunburn but it was a blast, i wanna go next year. Some of the stuff seemed overpriced but who knows..it was fun i barely had to time to look at the cars...my buddy got a set of wheels/tires for his camaro, i shoulda got a pic after we mounted em..17" 'rocket wheels. Looked good

[oldblue1968chevy]

got some jeep springs today

and a new bed, paid 300 and gotta crappy repo tailgate (SUPER THIN!)

Has some rust at the bottom of the headboard

the jeep springs are a lil wobbly even tightned down, anything I cando?

[Hubscrub]

sweet

[oldblue1968chevy]

you know if I need an adj. trac bar hubscrub? Someone told me I did..

1-RUST REPAIR!
2-build motor install
3-pull front clip blast and install swaybar, repaint everything
4-get 5 lug axles/rearend
5-mount slots
6-gas filler
7-get ready for bodywork/paint
8-enjoy truck and keep modding

Hopefully i can get alot of this done this summer

[VA72C10]

was 300 for the bed and the gate or just the gate?

[lolife99]

What's the story on the orange truck?
Did you buy the whole truck?
Or why did he sell just the bed?

[oldblue1968chevy]

$300.00 for the bed,and bent repo tailgate.

The orange truck is gettning shortened I didnt buy it he is keeping it.

Its gotta lil rust towards the front of the bed but for the money Im not complaining.

Im working on installing the jeep springs, so i'll be a lil lower now. Ive gotta ? Do I need an adj. panhard bar witha 3-4" drop? Thanks and are the front springs any use to me or should I just cut em 1\2 coil?

[oldblue1968chevy]

jeep springs installed I guess i need an adj. tracbar or adj. panhard bar

which one yall think

without the bed on they lowered the truck maybe 3"

[VA72C10]

you're probably fine with the adj panhard/trac bar at the stock mount. If you ever think you'll go lower get the super trac bar that bolts to the trailing arms.

[oldblue1968chevy]

ok well I may be doing a homade job dunno just yet..my $ came in for my new motor i think i wet my pants lol