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07-12-2010, 02:01 AM | #1 |
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Brake Hose Replacement
I'm going to change out the brake hoses to all four wheels on my 1972. Other than replacement hoses, are there any other parts that I will need? Also, anything special that I should know??
Thanks.
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1972 Chevy C-10 ~ 188,000 miles give or take |
07-12-2010, 10:34 AM | #2 |
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Re: Brake Hose Replacement
When you say hoses do you mean the rubber hoses or the metal lines?
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07-12-2010, 10:56 AM | #3 |
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Re: Brake Hose Replacement
Rubber hoses only.
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1972 Chevy C-10 ~ 188,000 miles give or take |
07-12-2010, 11:13 AM | #4 |
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Re: Brake Hose Replacement
copper washer and lock tabs, flush the system. Any idea where to get the lines? I cant find em anywhere (local o riellies and auto zone stores I mean)
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07-12-2010, 11:35 AM | #5 |
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Re: Brake Hose Replacement
AutoZone can special order them, which is probably what I'm going to do. I think they're about $23 each. Also, I've never flushed/bled the system on my 72 before, what's the best way to tackle it?? Standard press on the brake peddle and open the bleeder?
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1972 Chevy C-10 ~ 188,000 miles give or take |
07-12-2010, 12:38 PM | #6 |
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Re: Brake Hose Replacement
Im going to have to bleed my entire system myself as I just installed a 72 brake/suspension/steering system in my 67 truck I know theres a bleed valve to push in on the prop valve but Im not sure how to use it,
amyone?
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1967custom Last edited by michael bustamante; 07-12-2010 at 12:39 PM. |
07-12-2010, 12:41 PM | #7 |
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Re: Brake Hose Replacement
x2
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1972 Chevy C-10 ~ 188,000 miles give or take |
07-13-2010, 12:05 AM | #8 |
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Re: Brake Hose Replacement
anyone???
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1972 Chevy C-10 ~ 188,000 miles give or take |
07-13-2010, 12:43 AM | #9 |
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Re: Brake Hose Replacement
Yeah I would bleed them normally adding new fluid as I go. IIRC O'reilys had the hoses in stock, and there wasn't anything else you needed, just be sure to not break the little clip that holds the end of the hoses in place.
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'68 C10 LWB 6.2NA/NP833 3.73's |
07-13-2010, 01:44 AM | #10 |
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Re: Brake Hose Replacement
I think all the vendors sell those rubber lines in stock length.
Personally I had mine made up 2" longer, had a industrial hose company make them for me. If I were you, I would take this opportunity to re do all four corners of the brakes, since the wheel cylinders are probably cruddy anyways and should be replaced. If not, they contain a lot of crap from all the heat and friction and will just contaminate all your new fluid. Buy a big bottle of new fluid to, don't use some old stuff you may have. Brake fluid attracts moisture, and if the bottle has been opened and has sat around a while it's junk IMO. I've done the solo brake bleed, and it is slow going for sure since you are just doing a gravity bleed. Do the rear passenger side first, then the rear driver side, then the front passenger, and lastly the front driver wheel. Once you get a safe pedal, take it to a shop to have bleed again or get a buddy to help with pumping the pedal while you bleed the line at each wheel. Good luck!
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Chris 1968 K20 Suburban 1972 K10 LWB PU |
07-13-2010, 01:55 AM | #11 |
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Re: Brake Hose Replacement
Does anything special need to be done with the proportioning valve?
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1972 Chevy C-10 ~ 188,000 miles give or take |
07-13-2010, 02:29 AM | #12 |
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Re: Brake Hose Replacement
If you don't already have it, get a tube wrench that fits the nuts on the hard lines. It looks like a 6 point box wrench with one flat cut away. Also, flood the joints with penetrating oil and let them soak for a while before you begin. If you round off a hard line nut, the job will turn out to be a lot less fun than you were expecting.
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07-13-2010, 08:08 AM | #13 |
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Re: Brake Hose Replacement
On the front end of the prop valve you will see a little projection sticking out. That must be pushed in while bleeding the brakes. I made a tool for this out of 1"X1/8" aluminium flat stock. bend a 90 in it and lay it up against the prop valve. You can use one of the mounting bolts on the valve to hold this bracket on temporarily. Just mark the bracket where the mount bolt is and cut a slot in the bracket lengthwise so you can loosen the mount bolt, slide the bracket under it and push it until it depresses the little projection and tighten up the bolt. Take it off when you are done.
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07-13-2010, 08:41 AM | #14 |
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Re: Brake Hose Replacement
Depending on the condition of your lines, it might be difficult to change the hoses without damaging them. When I recently overhauled my complete brake system, the union nut on front line was seized to the line so the line ended up twisting off. I was planning on replacing all of my lines anyway, so it wasn't a big deal. Just wanted to share my experience.
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1967 Chevy C-10, 250 L6, Powerglide, 3.73, SWB, Fleetside Upgrades: Power steering, Offset air cleaner, Rear Sport bumper, 3 point safety belts, HEI, -1/-2 springs, 16x5 wheels, McGaughy's disc brake conversion, Sway bar |
07-13-2010, 11:03 AM | #15 |
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Re: Brake Hose Replacement
There is only one rubber line on the back. I got my front lines at NAPA and the rear line from Early Classic Industries. Google bleeding brakes. There are several ways to do it. Choose the one that sounds best to you and if it doesn't work try another method. Be sure to use a new sealed bottle of brake fluid. Brake fluid is hygroscopic. It starts absorbing moisture from the air as soon as you break the seal. Don't use a bottle that you opened previously and put back on the shelf.
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72 Cheyenne Super 1/2 LWB White/Dark Yellow 07 Avalanche 2LT 74 Sleek Craft Rebel Jet Boat W/Pontiac 400 Last edited by OhOneWS6; 07-13-2010 at 11:06 AM. |
07-13-2010, 11:58 AM | #16 |
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Re: Brake Hose Replacement
I have had good luck on common parts from Rock Auto. Prices are very competitive, in stock and shipped quickly. Not a source for restoration trim and body parts but for the mechanicals they have been good for me.
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