67/cummins

[rideharder]

im pickin up a 67 fleet soon, already have a cummins transplant but got a few suspension questions. the 67 had 4: drop front and 6" rear. the rear im ditching for single triangulated 4 link with bag on bars. the front has 2"coils and 2" spindle (1/2 ton with disk conversion) im going to be running a 14bolt ff rear axle (8lug) and 73-87 front x-member with 1ton up front.

my question is do they make 1 ton drop spindle, did a quick search and didnt find any. also will any of my existing front suspension mix with tne later 1 ton parts. would love to keep the drop spindle but not sure if it will want to suport the cummins and tranny. also what could a guy sell the whole front x-member setup for? as well as the back kit. i will be air baged allround so i can play with the diesel weight easily.

[Jacfourteen]

Just out of curiosity why are you gonna run the 8 lug? There have been lots of guys running big HP numbers on built 12 bolts, just seems like it would be alot easier than trying to fab up the front end. Any way you go it sounds like it will be a cool project!

[rsavage]

Diesel forums indicate a 12 valve cummings complete weighs approximately 1100 lbs, and Chevy small blocks about 575 and big blocks about 685. I would think you would need some beefy springs and front end components. There are a few members on here who have done it - check out their builds. Mooseburb on the Burb forum, for example, has a great illustrated thread.Good luck - keep us posted on progress.

[rideharder]

im going 8 lug to be safe, plus its diffrent. i have a 14bolt ff and it should hold up to the abuse of a 12valve....plus it weighs 1100 lbs plus the 200+ tranny. and im shooting for 700-800 ft# torque. i was just a little bit leary on 1/2 ton a arms and spindle under the cummins. thats all. i like over kill. and im going to be air bagin the truck so i should be able to play around with the front end to support the cummins, at least thats my logic. pluys i want her to sit as low as possible at full deflation..... would love to lay frame but not sure if the diesel will allow that. might be close.

[WestButteTruck]

There's a reason Dodge didn't put those in a 1/2 ton pickup.

[Jacfourteen]

Yeah I see your logic, I didn't realize they weigh that much. Good luck, I wish I could help out more.

[rollinhard]

The problem with cummins and tryin to get the truck close to the ground is they r extremely tall engines u will need a custom oil pan and pick-up just to get it resonably low I would think. And the A arms in these trucks are pretty much the same size from. 1ton to halfton only bigger balljoints and bearings so depending on how much your gonna drive it the halfton stuff should work. I would think.
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[rideharder]

it will be my weekend warrior/posible racer/ tow rig for a 1ton s10 4x4. im gonig to lift the cummins up as much asposible...... might use a cowl induction scoop for a bit more room. cant wait get the pick up the 67 tomorrow

[legendary]

Hey - what did you end up doing for suspension? Are you bagged? Do you still have the static suspension? I'm curious, as I am working on similar project (go figure), but now I want to know what I can lower her on without having problems later...I am kind of leaning towards static drop at first...let me get an idea what this whole ride will be like..

[rideharder]

well its still 1/2ton and still have the 2" drop (SBC) coils under it..... lots of sag. but as it sits will be my ride height i hope. it will be baged front and rear, 7/8" bags up front and 6" rear i have roughed in everything so far and......IT FITS! kinda
heres some pics. (asfar as i can find they are the only 2wd lowered cummins cst10 pics lol EDIT: didnt see your pics till now, i think we are the only 2 people i guess i can share the stage)






well atleat i get a center arm rest lol.


i finaly got heat in the shop so i can start working again. -20 isnt fun with out fire.

[legendary]

Oh wow! I understand (working w/o heat). We should keep in touch. I am going to do a few more things before I get it on the road...but I want to make it daily driver-able, and reliable...and those suspension pieces need to be all the way right...I do not want any problems because of things not being sturdy enough

Question - how are you going to protect that oil pan? A skid plate?

[rideharder]

more than likley use trailer hitch balls on all 4 corners so i cant go to low and sit the truck on the oil pan and as for normal driving its maby 3/4" below the front crossmember. not to worried as it will sit a ways away from the ground at hide height.

[legendary]

sweet! when do you think you will be all done?

[rideharder]

well right now its back to looking like it does in the first pic... so maby next year some time? may be drivable by spring but will be a flat black no interior monster.? need to spend a lot on the tranz to hold up to the power i plan on puttin down. and there is a bit o rust on the cab that still needs to be adressed. and the full air ride setup.my $3000 truck is quickly climbin.

also dont u love how we cant run a heater with a 12 valve lol...... whats your pan/x member look like, did you mont your motor higher than mine to eliminate the pan sitting lower? also how do you plan on taking the farthest back valve cover off to adj. valves every what 30-40 thousand k? i know iv been scratching my head on this. what tranz are you running?

[Bowtie7ty]

While the motor is open my word of advise is to fix the kdp ( KILLER DOWEL PIN) if it hasnt already been done. http://www.dieselbombers.com/dodge-t...l-pin-fix.html

And if you want anymore power out of that ve. http://www.dennytperformance.com/products.htm

and the best (FREE) stuff.. http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/mor...r/Power_ve.htm

Great project by the way

[rideharder]

ya i have the power thing mostly planed out ill get what i can out of the ve, use a piston pump, some nice injectors, and a low boost twin set up- bout 40psi with studs and posible fire rings for the head. 60# valve springs ect... but for now its stayin stock untill i get the truck done.