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10-23-2010, 04:33 AM | #1 |
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Location: Springfield, Oregon
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piggyback'n alternators
ok so some back story.
bought a 69 C-10. taking out the gas tank from behind the seat and relocating it. then im building an enclosure for two subs, two amps and a deep cycle battery to run all my extra things. like my power inverter i can use my laptop in the truck or whatever else i want lol. anyway to do this im going to add a second alternator to run and charge all of that so none of them will take away from starting battery. to do this im going to "PIGGYBACK" two alternators like they talk about in here http://www.zena.net/htdocs/ordering/...ld/OpManB1.pdf so anyone done anything like this before? or have any ideas? P.S. ill post my plans tomorrow i.e. some pics thanks as always Matthew
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-1969 C/10 Short Step soon to be Brand NEW Ls6/T56 -03 Mazda Protege 5 -WTB 1970 Chevelle project |
10-23-2010, 05:21 AM | #2 |
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Re: piggyback'n alternators
Wouldn't 1 Hi amp Altenator and a Battery isolator work?
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10-23-2010, 06:16 AM | #3 |
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Re: piggyback'n alternators
You could save your self a lot of hassle by just buying an H.O. Alt.
http://mechman.com/store/product_inf...roducts_id/374 I'm sure that will be plenty for your plans. I would also recommend an XS Power battery. 1 S3400 would work great. I personally run a Mechman 300 amp alt and 7 D3400's. Soon to be 2 Mechman 300's. Edit- Running anything much bigger than that 150 amp on a v-belt is going slip like crazy. If you want bigger invest in a serpentine.
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'70 K10-- 4" lift on 35"s-- For Sale http://www.ksl.com/index.php?sid=733...iew&ad=4578305 Last edited by Nova70; 10-23-2010 at 06:29 AM. |
10-23-2010, 07:16 AM | #4 |
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Re: piggyback'n alternators
man now i want to make a welder out of my lawn mower
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10-23-2010, 08:00 AM | #5 |
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Re: piggyback'n alternators
How about 1 killer alternator and 2 batteries.
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10-23-2010, 09:11 AM | #6 |
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Re: piggyback'n alternators
I was curious about this also, good info
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10-23-2010, 01:02 PM | #7 |
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Re: piggyback'n alternators
well I agree to running one HO alt would do it but in my opinion it is almost always better to have two weaker "things" i.e. alternators the one huge one taking all of the load.
what would it take to do a serpentine belt? I did even know you could really change it.
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-1969 C/10 Short Step soon to be Brand NEW Ls6/T56 -03 Mazda Protege 5 -WTB 1970 Chevelle project |
10-23-2010, 01:03 PM | #8 | |
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Re: piggyback'n alternators
Quote:
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10-23-2010, 03:09 PM | #9 |
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Re: piggyback'n alternators
6 Audioque 18's and an SD12KD. Takes a lot of electrical to supply 14,000 watt RMS.
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'70 K10-- 4" lift on 35"s-- For Sale http://www.ksl.com/index.php?sid=733...iew&ad=4578305 |
10-23-2010, 03:50 PM | #10 |
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Re: piggyback'n alternators
finally somewhere i can may be able to help!!! LOL!!! im not too mechanically savy but i know my car audio!!!
Now - I'm not sure how much power you are planing to put into your truck but unless you are using your bed also there isn't too much you can do so I recommend a HI-Amp Alternator like most people said, a good battery ( I recommend Optima yellow top) and a a good capacitor....if you do this right and wire everything correctly you shouldn't have any problems! Good luck!!! |
10-23-2010, 04:15 PM | #11 | ||
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Re: piggyback'n alternators
Quote:
A good quality single alternator and a battery isolator to charge and auxillary battery will be fine. Off-roaders have done it like this for years to keep a battery ready for a winch or multiple hi-powered lights.
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10-23-2010, 05:56 PM | #12 |
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Re: piggyback'n alternators
I think you guys are right ive just never had that good of parts in my other vehicles and ive had some power issues so i was trying to be over cautious. but anyway thanks for the advice....anyone have some photos of sweet sound systems in these old trucks?
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-1969 C/10 Short Step soon to be Brand NEW Ls6/T56 -03 Mazda Protege 5 -WTB 1970 Chevelle project |
10-23-2010, 10:41 PM | #13 |
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Re: piggyback'n alternators
Not to contradict anyone, but DO NOT ever use an Optima. They have voltage spikes unlike any other battery I have ever seen. If you want to fry some headunits and amps then go for it. A lot of factory car electronics, with the exception of quality amps, are fairly sensitive to voltage. Yellow tops spike up to 16 volts and will fry a headunit in a second. I know some people will chime in, "I've never had any problems." That's for now, you may get lucky and it wont happen at all, but as for me, I wouldn't take the chance. Go with just about anything else. I personally suggest XS Power, I've had nothing but good luck and their customer support is top notch.
Edit- I need to take pics of my system. Haven't taken pics of my new setup. Here was the old setup that got torn out. Before anyone says anything, yes that port is FU**ED up. lol. I made the mistake of letting someone not so skilled with a jigsaw cut it. It wasn't in for long before the new setup so I didn't bother fixing it. It was a 4th order tuned to 37hz, 24^ cubes in the front chamber, 8^ in the rear. Was 4 15's and did it's job for the time it was in action. Current setup that I'll get pics of soon is 6 Audioque HDC3 18's on a SounDigital 12KD @ .7 in a series tuned 6th order. It gets DIIRRTTYY on the lows.
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'70 K10-- 4" lift on 35"s-- For Sale http://www.ksl.com/index.php?sid=733...iew&ad=4578305 Last edited by Nova70; 10-23-2010 at 10:49 PM. |
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