Overbuilding - Looking for advice on how not to

[RdoubleU]

BUILD THREAD STARTS POST # 12

This is a great site and a big help for me with detail information and how to's for various projects on these 67-72 trucks.

I've acquired a '68 C10 SWB stepside with the 250 3spd setup. The truck has been sitting in the original owners sons garage for years and I finally was able to get my hands on it.

The trucks currently runs and drives but still needs alot of work to have it reliable enough to drive to town with no worries.

In the past few months I've:
- Replace the fuel system (new tank, lines, fuel pump, carb)
- Replaced the Radiator
- New Valve cover gasket/breather/pcv

Future plans:
1) HEI (read numerous times best upgrade you can do for these motors)
2) Power steering and front end rebuild (loose manual steering as is)
3) Power Brakes
4) ECE 4/6 drop with 6 lug disk

Goal: get this truck mechanically solid and reliable without getting into the overbuilding nightmare that keeps projects in the garage for years. Right now my plan is to follow the 1-4 sequence as above unless others have suggestions that doing certain upgrades together at once is best or any other upgrades are key.

[67chevy1series]

you should take care of that but your not over building it you ve got great plans ,you know us guys we need pics got any

[PanelDeland]

Sounds like you have a goal and a plan.I would fix the oil leak and stick with the plan you outlined.

[Luvlegs]

oh yeah... yeah,... yeah yeah,, the plan... geesch - almost forgot about that! Man... 5 years in, ha! forgot what I was doing there for a year or two.....

[special-K]

If you're not losing a great amount of oil,like making the whole underside wet and leaving puddles,the leak is just an annoyance. The main threat is losing track and letting it run low. Gaskets dry up when a vehicle sits a period of time,then start leaking once it starts being driven. It's a common practice to go ahead and re-gasket/seal the whole motor and would not be considered overbuilding. It's no big project to go ahead and replace the timing cover,oil pan,side cover gaskets,and crank seals. You can let them go,fix them as they leak,or do it all and be done.

[LockDoc]

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The first thing I would do is try re-tightening the bolts on the pan. Just don't get carried away, they are easy to twist off if you get heavy handed.

LockDoc

[firedog]

Regarding overbuilding... just try to keep in mind, if you think at any time you may sell your truck you will probably not get much in return for your labor... That is unless you are locdock then everything you touch turns to gold... Or some sweet wine!
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[cdowns]

make it a habit for work// must b able to drivein in the morning and driveout compleated at night// live by that rule you'll never overbuild

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by cdowns

make it a habit for work// must b able to drivein in the morning and driveout compleated at night// live by that rule you'll never overbuild

Thats my goal, but sometimes its more like 1-2 weeks.. i'm sure i'll break it this year tho.

[RdoubleU]

There is a decent amount of oil spray on the lower oil pan/flywheel/trans area and about a coffee mug sized puddle on the ground so the leak issues will definitely need to be addressed once the truck starts to see the road more often.

Believe I will shoot for the HEI upgrade next and follow that up with new seals once I'm positive the engine is good to go and dependable enough to drive anywhere anytime.

Heres a few shots:
- the day the truck left the garage
- Proof of the wonders of simple green and time: Before/Halfway/Done
- And my fauxpantina valve cover so it wouldn't stand out

[jablack]

I bought a truck with a 250 in it. It was covered in oil and gunk. I changed the valve cover gasket and cleaned it a little. It hasn't leaked since.

[RdoubleU]

Originally Posted by RdoubleU

This is a great site and a big help for me with detail information and how to's for various projects on these 67-72 trucks.

I've acquired a '68 C10 SWB stepside with the 250 3spd setup. The truck has been sitting in the original owners sons garage for years and I finally was able to get my hands on it.

The trucks currently runs and drives but still needs alot of work to have it reliable enough to drive to town with no worries.

In the past few months I've:
- Replace the fuel system (new tank, lines, fuel pump, carb)
- Replaced the Radiator
- New Valve cover gasket/breather/pcv

Future plans:
1) HEI (read numerous times best upgrade you can do for these motors)
2) Power steering and front end rebuild (loose manual steering as is)
3) Power Brakes
4) ECE 4/6 drop with 6 lug disk

Goal: Im looking for advice on how to get this truck mechanically solid and reliable without getting into the overbuilding nightmare that keeps projects in the garage for years. Right now my plan is to follow the 1-4 sequence as above unless others have suggestions that doing certain upgrades together at once is best or any other upgrades are key.

This was 2 years ago and I've since change my plans a little but never strayed from my goal and made sure I didn't get into new areas of the build without closing the current project first. This has allowed me to get to the current stage without ever letting the project get out of control

Since I did not create a build thread as I went, I am going to try and do alittle catch up and also provide some links to information i collected along the way that might help others out working on the same issues

This forum is a great resource, just have to do some searching for the info

But to start heres the As Was to As Is comparison and then I'll start posting all the stuff that happened inbetween

[RdoubleU]

Again here's the straight from the garage day and Original Stance

[RdoubleU]

Future plans Update :
1) HEI (read numerous times best upgrade you can do for these motors)

I went with the Skip White HEI: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=405650

And Followed the FAQ Index Thread for the Install: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=148346

Plug Gap : http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=349565

Additional Wiring Detail: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=388275

Working great and no issues

[RdoubleU]

Future plans Update:
2) Power steering and front end rebuild (loose manual steering as is)

I followed this How To in the FAQ Index Thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=216886

I did have the flat front frame on my '68 which required me to indent the frame to clear the steering box bulge. It really a simple task and I used a Hand Torch with a Hammer just enough to get the clearance I needed.:
http://www.classicheartbeat.com/panel_5.htm
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=456086
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=419306

Used all the part #'s and parts sourced from the FAQ thread and purchased a set of power steering brackets for a 250 I6 from a member here on the board

I did run into some issues with the pulley alignment, but was able to figure out a solution by making some custom washers and "keying" them to match the power steering pumps shaft and align the pulley as needed (see below)
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=354622
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=470040

Alignment Solution:

[RdoubleU]

So these were supposed to be the next Future Plans Update:
3) Power Brakes
4) ECE 4/6 drop with 6 lug disk

But when I took the truck to get aligned after replacing all of my steering components they would not touch it due to my control arm bushings and ball joints were completely shot.

So I started researching costs on what it would take to rebuild them......

And then I found Rob's thread and it was all over from there: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=419251

Originally Posted by robnolimit

If you guys (and gals) want, i'll try to keep responding to your handling questions.

Making these trucks handle is easy at first, but the more you want to get out of it, the more work it becomes. The are several things to consider. Tires, Wheels, Weight, Suspension, Brakes, Gears, ....... Set your goals before you start, as some of the parts change the deeper you go. Also, decide how streetable you want it to stay. The more you want to pull one 'G', the stiffer it's going to get. Drop spindles are better, in general, than short springs, this helps to keep the suspension in the sweet spot. In the rear, (trailing arm) blocks are better than short springs for the first 2 inches. Then go to springs. For leaf trucks, use de-arch springs or a flip kit, no blocks. Go BIG on the sway bars. And, spend $$$ on shocks. Doetsch, KYB, or Bilstien, this is where it happens.

Give me some questions, and I'll be more specific on the details.

[Low Elco]

Oh no, you found the make it handle thread! Lotta good info there. Did you do the 3/4" LC mod and how do you like it post-op? Neat little truck!

[RdoubleU]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

Oh no, you found the make it handle thread! Lotta good info there. Did you do the 3/4" LC mod and how do you like it post-op? Neat little truck!

Lots of great info and I suggest to anyone reading on that thread and over in the Suspension forum. I didn't do the exact mod Rob talks about doing to the factory control arms but I did go with Porterbuilt Forward Arms that accomplish the same goal - ill post up more on that later

[RRC]

Nice work....truck looks great!!!
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[RdoubleU]

So after reading the Make It Handle Thread and other posts on suspension/handling I decided I was going to move forward and do it right the first time

Next step was to remove the bed, clean and prep the frame and put some chassis black on it

[longbed67]

Looking back I should have taken your approach! I definitely took the overbuild approach! I'll follow this!

[1lo67]

Looking Good

[67cheby]

love the truck

[jae]

Nice. I just saw a pic of your truck pop up on my Facebook timeline today, believe it was posted by Pro Performance.

Looks good. I'm in to follow the rest of your updates.

[RdoubleU]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

Neat little truck!

Originally Posted by RRC

Nice work....truck looks great!!!
Posted via Mobile Device

Originally Posted by longbed67

I'll follow this!

Originally Posted by 1lo67

Looking Good

Originally Posted by 67cheby

love the truck

Originally Posted by jae

I'm in to follow the rest of your updates.

Thanks Guys, I appreciate it

Once I was done painting the frame and under the cab, next issue was to address my front pinion seal on the axle leaking

So Since I had to tear the entire axle down that lead to:
- Moser 5 Lug axle swap
- All new bearings and seals throughout
- Richmond 3.42 gears
- Eaton Posi

All done so I shouldn't have to touch that axle again for awhile

I followed this How To for the rebuild: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=484897