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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: spokane washington
Posts: 56
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hello everyone. i have a 69 c10 longbed with a 292 inline 6. the engine was a donor because the first one had a cracked block and head. i didnt have the money to buy a new clutch assembly so i re used the old one. as far as i know its not hydraulic. i didnt mess with any of the linkage settings under the dash or from the fork ect...but the clutch pedal goes all the way to the floor with very little resistance and disengages the clutch about an inch or so from the floor. its a 4 speed manual granny tranny. im still kinna new to all this, and im wondering where i should start.
also i was wondering the best way to burp all the air out of the coolant system, and if i could mount a temp gauge sending unit in the thermostat housing itself cause my cyl head dosent have a port for it. thanks for taking the time to read this. ![]() |
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#2 |
Hand Crafted C-10
![]() Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Burien, WA
Posts: 5,180
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Re: clutch adjustment
ttt for ya
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#3 |
Active Member
![]() Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Centrally located between Houston, Austin and Waco. BCS area.
Posts: 7,947
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Re: clutch adjustment
First thing you need to check is the clutch linkage adjustment. The clutch should start to make contact with the throw out bearing/pressure plate 1/2" to 1" from the top (free play). About half ways through the travel it should disengage the clutch from the flywheel and pressure plate.
There's a lock nut and link adjustment to do that. If you are at the end of the adjustment and everything is original and hasn't been changed then you may have extreme wear in the clutch/pressure plate and they will have to be replaced. Last edited by 68gmsee; 03-28-2011 at 11:18 PM. |
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: spokane washington
Posts: 56
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Re: clutch adjustment
thankyou, ill start there tomorrow morning
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