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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Port Deposit, Md
Posts: 97
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Tranny question
Hey all.....I have a 4 speed with granny trans and I'm not sure if the throw-out bearing or the slave cylinder is going bad. Question is, how hard are they to replace and is it easier to just get a "new" used tranny and just swap it? Thanks
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1993 Chevy Suburban 4X4 (Off duty driver) 2012 Chevy Impala SSV (Work Vehicle) 2008 Harley Road King (Play toy) |
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#2 |
One shot, one kill.
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Saratoga Springs NY
Posts: 859
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Re: Tranny question
713. Exactly what are the symptoms? Just hard shift? Noise? Grinding? They don't call the sm465 a rock crusher for nothing. It's almost bullet proof as long as there is grease in it. Post the exact problem with when it started and how it presented itself. Also tell if there was any work done beforehand. jim
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1984 K20 350M engine with 465,000 miles. Well, it's finally done!! Almost 2 years of work, but it was really worth the effort. Little stuff left to do is mount winch, wet sand & buff out and build belly pan\running boards. Body work takes lots and LOTS of beer!!!! God, Guts and Guns made America and God, Guts and Guns will preserve it! The worst thing you could do is get into my sights, but that don't matter, you'll never know it, cause you'll never hear the shot ![]() |
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#3 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: East Central Illinois
Posts: 511
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Re: Tranny question
Quote:
![]() The good news: Having been there done that myself with replacing a clutch then it is my opinion (mine only, of course) anybody can do it if you take your time, ask questions when needed and can turn a wrench. At least this is what a friend who is a mechanic by profession told me when he loaned me his transmission jack and smiled. I think he knew I was going to learn something. ![]() Just be very careful when that transmission comes out. Experience in that moment led me to discover it tends to weigh a "few pounds". It was one of those "memory makers" in my self-education on safely removing the SM465 transmission. ![]() ![]() Meanwhile, use the search mechanism here on clutch's and throw-out bearings, ask questions as you are here, and everything you need to know can be found. A service manual helps too. ![]() And maybe it is not the clutch at all and a simple solution instead. Good Luck! Mark
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1985 Chevy C-30 Hydraulic Dump Bed 2001 Saturn SC2 (go to work car) 2010 PT Cruiser (wife's car) "Reality is just a hallucination brought on by lack of alcohol." ![]() Last edited by RuralRoute C-30; 04-17-2011 at 09:26 AM. |
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#4 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Port Deposit, Md
Posts: 97
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Re: Tranny question
Quote:
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1993 Chevy Suburban 4X4 (Off duty driver) 2012 Chevy Impala SSV (Work Vehicle) 2008 Harley Road King (Play toy) |
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#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Port Deposit, Md
Posts: 97
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Re: Tranny question
Bump
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1993 Chevy Suburban 4X4 (Off duty driver) 2012 Chevy Impala SSV (Work Vehicle) 2008 Harley Road King (Play toy) |
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#6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: East Central Illinois
Posts: 511
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Re: Tranny question
713:
Chances are there are others more experienced than I on this topic who will add to this but the symptoms you describe are, "to a tee", exactly the same ones that led me into replacing a clutch and more. If I started the truck in gear with the clutch pressed in, it was rolling. Shifting when running was not an option in or out of gear when I finally tore it apart. Earlier it was making an occasional growling noise at times when the clutch would disengage, but like all noises, it got worse and so did the problem. ![]() But first, are you sure the slave cylinder is working? Air in these hydraulic clutches are a known pain when it occurs and bleeding the air that is known to settle in that slave can seem to take forever. Another point to ponder would be how does the pedal feel? Lose/to the floor or like it should? Since you mentioned the master cylinder was replaced not too many miles ago it may be worth checking to see if the slave is functioning before committing to a tear down for a clutch. If it isn't then it can't put enough pressure on that clutch fork to manage the throw-out bearing. Here is a link that chronicles my learning curve last year on this topic. In the end, air was the nemesis at the end of the job, but I wound up with a needed new clutch and overall clean-up of that area of the truck as well. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=410276 Either way, bleeding air in that system can take some patience. Somewhere here I read from a member where they would pump the clutch "up" until it felt "right", bleed, do it again, walk away with the clutch to the floor, (I used a 2x4 to keep it compressed), let it sit for half an hour, bleed again, repeat the process and eventually bled all the air out. Also with the cap off the master cylinder, while pushing on the clutch, look for air bubbles. For me, this process finally worked when nothing else did, and that was after a new clutch was installed! ![]() Personally I'd just be sure it was not an air problem before dropping that transmission. But if bleeding doesn't work, just remember it is just nuts and bolts and turning a wrench with time to see a new clutch installed. ![]() Curious to hear what you find to be the problem. Good Luck either way, Mark ![]()
__________________
1985 Chevy C-30 Hydraulic Dump Bed 2001 Saturn SC2 (go to work car) 2010 PT Cruiser (wife's car) "Reality is just a hallucination brought on by lack of alcohol." ![]() |
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#7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: East Central Illinois
Posts: 511
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Re: Tranny question
713:
Chances are there are others more experienced than I on this topic who will add to this but the symptoms you describe are, "to a tee", exactly the same ones that led me into replacing a clutch and more. If I started the truck in gear with the clutch pressed in, it was rolling. Shifting when running was not an option in or out of gear when I finally tore it apart. Earlier it was making an occasional growling noise at times when the clutch would disengage, but like all noises, it got worse and so did the problem. ![]() But first, are you sure the slave cylinder is working? Air in these hydraulic clutches are a known pain when it occurs and bleeding the air that is known to settle in that slave can seem to take forever. Another point to ponder would be how does the pedal feel? Lose/to the floor or like it should? Since you mentioned the master cylinder was replaced not too many miles ago it may be worth checking to see if the slave is functioning before committing to a tear down for a clutch. If it isn't then it can't put enough pressure on that clutch fork to manage the throw-out bearing. Here is a link that chronicles my learning curve last year on this topic. In the end, air was the nemesis at the end of the job, but I wound up with a needed new clutch and overall clean-up of that area of the truck as well. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=410276 Either way, bleeding air in that system can take some patience. Somewhere here I read from a member where they would pump the clutch "up" until it felt "right", bleed, do it again, walk away with the clutch to the floor, (I used a 2x4 to keep it compressed), let it sit for half an hour, bleed again, repeat the process and eventually bled all the air out. Also with the cap off the master cylinder, while pushing on the clutch, look for air bubbles. For me, this process finally worked when nothing else did, and that was after a new clutch was installed! ![]() Personally I'd just be sure it was not an air problem before dropping that transmission. But if bleeding doesn't work, just remember it is just nuts and bolts and turning a wrench with time to see a new clutch installed. ![]() Curious to hear what you find to be the problem. Good Luck either way, Mark ![]()
__________________
1985 Chevy C-30 Hydraulic Dump Bed 2001 Saturn SC2 (go to work car) 2010 PT Cruiser (wife's car) "Reality is just a hallucination brought on by lack of alcohol." ![]() |
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#8 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Maumelle, AR
Posts: 478
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Re: Tranny question
If your clutch is hydraulically actuated, it seems like that is what I would check first. It sounds like you have air in the system somewhere. Sometimes pumping the clutch pedal a few times with a hydraulic system will let you get it into gear if itisn't too air-bound. And putting it into neutral as you come to a light or whatever will help. Of course if it is just mechanical rods that make the clutch work see if there is any more adjustment left in the linkage. If it is already adjusted all the way, you need a new clutch.
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#9 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Port Deposit, Md
Posts: 97
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Re: Tranny question
When I first start it the clutch feels fine and I can start it in gear. But after a minute it starts engaging. Then if I pop it into neutral and pump the clutch it feels soft. I was thinking it had air in the system but I drove it a couple of months (every now and then) with out problem. Guess it's back to the garage when I get some time to start bleeding. Thanks for the help. I'll let everyone know how it goes. If anyone has a further insight feel free to post please.
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1993 Chevy Suburban 4X4 (Off duty driver) 2012 Chevy Impala SSV (Work Vehicle) 2008 Harley Road King (Play toy) |
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