Sectioned front crossmember?

[shortbed70]

What is the reason behind doing this? Do you basically move the entire thing up in the frame rails? Or am I missing something.
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[Pop's C-10]

you missed nothing

[67cheby]

your factory crossmember is the first thing to touch the ground when you go really low ! and yes it it just moving it up so the frame will go lower and not hit the crossmember !!

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 67cheby

your factory crossmember is the first thing to touch the ground when you go really low ! and yes it it just moving it up so the frame will go lower and not hit the crossmember !!

Or.... Get more clearance @ a similar drop. 1" of additional clearance w/6" of front static drop is the difference sometimes between damaged a-arms or not.

[roofingbloke]

I am just doing a crossmember section (1.25") My static drop was so low, when i came off the gas my crossmember would hit the tarmac, Not good,

Every inch counts when it comes to safety,

I am also going on air,

[Slammed50]

I know this post is a few months old but is there any info on how much the crossmember needs to be sectioned in order for the center section of the rails to lay out flat? It looks like only a couple inches but am curious if somone has the magic number. I am talking with factory control arms as well. Thanks.

[SCOTI]

The limitation will be the steering unless you swap to R&P.

You can only go about 1.5" before the OE style steering tie-rod ends hit the lower control arm u-bolt nuts as the steering swings through its arc. I've also found that what works for 1 application, might be an issue on another (parts combination, year of chassis, clearancing required).

[oldspowered67C10]

Quick question for anyone who has done this. Did you move the steering box and the idler arm up on the frame also?

[67cheby]

i havent personally done this but i have read several times that that is the only way to keep your steering geometry correct

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 67cheby

i havent personally done this but i have read several times that that is the only way to keep your steering geometry correct

It's a 'catch-22' situation....

The geometry isn't optimum in stock form. Are you making it worse? Possibly. Will it be noticeable? That's subjective. Ask multiple guys that have done a 12" tall spindle b-body disc brake swap to their 10.5" short spindle g-body if they noticed any issues. Some will say yes, others will say no.

I do know that Rob @ No Limit has their R&P set-up that is prob the best answer for the notched x-member guys. He was able to correct many OE & modification flaws so it's worth checking in to.

Different combinations will yield different results (ex: w/stock 1-ton spindles, the tie-rod end seats @ the top of the steering arm; on the dropped spindles, it seats from the bottom). Which one is better? Which one is more correct?

[Slammed50]

Minus any steering issues since I will be using a r&p set up anyone have the measurements on how much to section the crossmember so it will lay frame with stock control arms?
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[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Slammed50

Minus any steering issues since I will be using a r&p set up anyone have the measurements on how much to section the crossmember so it will lay frame with stock control arms?

Have you measured your own set-up? I would start there. Measure from the ground to the bottom of your frame rail & from the ground to the bottom of your control-arm bushing. The difference will be your answer.

[jimmydean]

I may be wrong, but I don't think you can lay frame just by sectioning the crossmember. You only get about 1.5" out of it.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by jimmydean

I may be wrong, but I don't think you can lay frame just by sectioning the crossmember. You only get about 1.5" out of it.

The 1.5 is the limit because of OE steering box location....

Originally Posted by Slammed50

Minus any steering issues since I will be using a r&p set

[kev2809]

which means he can chop the crossmember roughly 3" (like a frame "Z") until the frame lays.

but if your going rack and pinion anyways, would z'ing your frame be easier? you dont have to take anything (motor wise) off in order to do it, just a lot of boxing...

i havent done either so im just speaking of hear say!

[jimmydean]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

The 1.5 is the limit because of OE steering box location....

Ah, even so I didn't think you could get 3"+ out of it. Hence the preface "I may be wrong" since I usually am.

Sectioned crossmembers and z'ed frames seem like way too much work to save very little over the various options available now (Porterbuilt, NoLimit, Scotts).

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by kev2809

which means he can chop the crossmember roughly 3" (like a frame "Z") until the frame lays.

but if your going rack and pinion anyways, would z'ing your frame be easier? you dont have to take anything (motor wise) off in order to do it, just a lot of boxing...

i havent done either so im just speaking of hear say!

No Limits R&P set-up is affordable vs. other R&P kit alternatives & doesn't required welding. The x-member can be removed & easily carried to a welder/shop in a small car for the notch if a guy doesn't have a welder or welding experience. It also isn't as critical from a strength perspective for the novice welder since technically half of the bolts that secure/locate the unit remain on the un-modified side of the x-member vs. cutting off & re-attaching the front clip correctly/successfully.

If a guy was trying for more than 1.5" of drop/travel gain, a Dropmember (or similar dropped crossmember alternative) would be the better alternative vs. the x-member notch.

[Slammed50]

Thanks for the info scoti, I am in the process of building my suspension now so as soon as in all comes back from the sand blaster I will be able to get a better idea of how much I need to section it. It doesn't look like I need to go as much as 3" but I will find out in a couple weeks. I'll keep you posted.
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[Slammed50]

Kev, I am tryin to avoid a z'ed frame if at some point I want to change up the front suspension. If I section the crossmember all I have to do pull the bolts and I'm ready to go.
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[dv8customs]

There is not enough material there to section the crossmember 3". In order to fully lay out with a stock crossmember you will need to Z it some.

[jimmydean]

Originally Posted by dv8customs

There is not enough material there to section the crossmember 3". In order to fully lay out with a stock crossmember you will need to Z it some.

That's what I thought. I didn't think you could get much over 2.25" max and even getting that much would be a lot of work.

I understand what you are wanting to do. I think Scoti is right on the nose with the No Limit rack setup as a best option if you didn't want to go full on DM.

[Slammed50]

Guess I need to take another look at it and see what my next step will be then. Don't really have the cash to drop on a DM as much as I would like to. Brainstorming time....
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[LUCKIN-FOU]

1] Here are some pictures of a cross member that I did a couple of years ago. I took 2.25 inches out of the middle. I did it on one of my trucks I never finished it because it’s mine. I had to get to work on a paying job.

I made sure it was level. This way when I welded some legs on it when I put it back together it was true and square.









All I did was find the center mark it with 2” tape and make some lines. I went with 2 inches because I didn’t need a bunch of clearance.

[Slammed50]

Looks like a nice job Lou but the section needs to be horizontally not vertically to make it sit lower. Thanks for the pics though!!
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[LUCKIN-FOU]

I'll post some of them