Factory ac keep you cool?

[Rogue_Alphonse]

I do! I self-converted mine to R-134A by making sure the system had no refrigerant left in it, then dropped in some 134, an oil charge, more 134, then a leak/seal charge. It gets so cold that some condensation leaks inside of my truck Now to replace the heater core...

[Mikewb]

to make sure it was empty did you just run a flush through it? and how many cans of 134 does it take to fill an empty system? and how many 12 ounce cans of r12?

[youwish2bme]

My 87 on MAX AC will freeze you out in about 10 miles. The 86 I'm working on now it takes about 15 miles. R12 is the best! It is still available you just have to have a license.

Dave

[Mikewb]

also how big of bottle of oil did you use? thanks for info guys

[Rogue_Alphonse]

Originally Posted by Mikewb

to make sure it was empty did you just run a flush through it? and how many cans of 134 does it take to fill an empty system? and how many 12 ounce cans of r12?

I did it the worst way anyone could really... I pushed down the schrader valve on the high side and there was nothing, no pressure at all. I had to jump the compressor to get it to draw in the 134, which was out of a 30 pound container using an old R-22 line mated to one of those AutoZone low-side filler kit lines. Just filled it until it started sweating at the compressor.

Today it was 87 and I kept having to turn the switch between Vent and Bi-Lev because it was freezing my foot off with the fan speed all the way down. I can't wait to get the windows tinted now!

It also doesn't affect my highway mileage, but it does affect the city mileage. It helps that it's a diesel I guess.

[Mikewb]

so you just held it down till nothing came out?
also what do you mean when u say jumped the compressor? and how much of that 30lbs would you guess that it used?

[Rogue_Alphonse]

Originally Posted by Mikewb

so you just held it down till nothing came out?
also what do you mean when u say jumped the compressor? and how much of that 30lbs would you guess that it used?

Yeah, but it only hissed for about a second. If there had been a lot of pressure behind it I would have evacuated the system.

I had to run a wire from the hot side of the connector right to the battery to make the compressor clutch engage so it was running when the engine was running. Just don't do it like that unless you absolutely have to and get freon in it ASAP.

I put a little over 3 pounds in it all together [no gauge, so not sure] and that's including the oil and leak/seal charges. It was about 102 the day I charged it to it's better to give it a teeny bit more than recommended. The sticker says it had 3 pounds of R-12 in it.

[Mikewb]

thanks man. Now to figure out how many cans that equalls out to be lol so i dont have to buy 30 lbs

[Rogue_Alphonse]

Originally Posted by Mikewb

thanks man. Now to figure out how many cans that equalls out to be lol so i dont have to buy 30 lbs

Yeah I am lucky enough to get it for free from work thanks to the F-250's losing charge LOL

[SSC's76]

There alot going on here in this thread..... Granted I dont have ac in my truck would be nice on those 105+ days but it doesent bug me.

I can still buy and service R12 but i have not even seen a car on the road that uses R12 in a while. Well not true my father in laws bronco which hasent been touched since new in 92 still blows cold air.

Its always good to replace components when converting to 134 its not needed but but at least replace the orifice, replace the dryer if the system has been open. If there are any spots on the system around the connections that are collecting dirt this means leakage. Replace the o-rings with r134a set. Cheap insurance.

PAG and Ester will mix usually its fine most of the oil is probably gone out of your sytem but hey if your going to do it right replace the dryer and orifice pull the lines on the condenser and flush it. Ester isnt great oil it likes to absorb moisture. Pulling a vacuum on the system boils any moisture out of the system.

R134 runs at higher pressures and creates more heat at the condenser. 134 systems run larger condensers with more surface area to help exchange heat. Replacing the condenser usually isnt an option but a small electric fan in front of the condenser makes a huge improvement especially on retrofitted systems. This is why retrofitted systems do not cool as well in town but seem to freeze you out on the highway.

Anyone seen the price of a bottle of 134 as of late holy crap!

[Mikewb]

after pullin vaccum and evaccuating the system. should i add oil before adding freon?

[odee]

have any of you guys swapped the orfice tube out for a different one? I have heard of folks using a blue one from a ford?? What about the evap and condenser any changes to them for a better cooling from the ac?

[Hevy]

Personally I would use the compressor and orifice tube that GM recommends. They put alot of money into R&D to figure out what works best together and they're usually right. If you want to switch to 134 that would be a good idea because R12 is very expensive and getting harder to find.

[SSC's76]

Originally Posted by Mikewb

after pullin vaccum and evaccuating the system. should i add oil before adding freon?

Yep best way is to get a can of oil and put it in the system first before you put in your charge.

[asalazar1910]

hows it goin fellas,
just thought while this thread was running i could get some answers to some questions i have regarding the ac.
i have a rebuilt system about 2 years old now, and it blows real cold. but latly ive noticed that when im driving and i have it on max, with the high speed, the air starts to get a little warmer, like i have some small airflow from the vent. just was wondering if it could be that,or that i am a little low on freeon. havnt had the chance to hook up the ac gauges to it to see, just thought i could see what yall had to say about it.

also does anybody know of blower motor from a later year that would have a higher output of airflow that would fit right in on the truck. almost forgot, its a 84 silverado longbed.

first time actually asking questions on this site, have used it alot for trouble shooting, and getting ideas for my truck. ill try and post pics of mine later on the appropriate thread

thanks

[odee]

checking back in on this subject, any upgrade to the blower fan out there? Changes to the evap or condenser to upgrade to?

[motornut]

R134 runs at higher pressures and creates more heat at the condenser. 134 systems run larger condensers with more surface area to help exchange heat. Replacing the condenser usually isnt an option but a small electric fan in front of the condenser makes a huge improvement especially on retrofitted systems. This is why retrofitted systems do not cool as well in town but seem to freeze you out on the highway.

Just like you said
A friend with a new 2010 dodge caravan lowered for his chair
freezes you on the highway,but you do feel heat when stuck in traffic
thinking it's the extra 40 square feet of space making it harder to cool

[BrooKLyn]

Has anyone found a blower motor that blows harder then the factory one ..
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[Goldfinger]

I ran my truck in "drive" for the first time in a year with a/c on max. I was frozen all day. the higher rpm make all the difference.