'64 Reliable Daily Driver build thread....

[J.Cagle]

This is my 1964 chevy. I bought it a few months ago and parked my '05 Mustang gt b/c I loved driving it so much. It just had the stock 235 with 3 speed and no power anything. The only down fall was it seemed kinda limited to close trips and town driving since 55 was about top speed. Even with it running like a top I just didnt want to push it. So, I decided I want to drive it everyday anywhere I wanted to go RELIABLY! To do so, I decided I'd need a V8, auto, power steering, and power brakes. After some nice guys on here pointed me in the right direction I found an '84 suburban with a low milage rebuilt motor and transmission. It runs and drives good so I knew I'd be ok to use the front and rear end as well. I will probaly do some rust repair and some paint work while its apart as well. Anyways, I decided to start tearing into the '64 tonight. I will update pics and the progress comes along! Any tips and comments would be great!

[b2948kevin]

Boy, that engine looks purdy... when was it rebuilt?

I think us LWB Stepside guys need to stick together

[J.Cagle]

It wasnt rebuilt,lol. I got bored and decided to repaint it. Got done painting it and had bought a new water pump and stuff and decided to do an engine swap rather than put it back together. I am hoping I can find someone who wants it and the good 3 speed tranny. I dont have anywhere to store it and I couldnt bringmyself to junk such a good running motor. Plus its setup for dealer add on air. Ive got all the brackets and pullies, and compressor.

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by J.Cagle

I like the mud flap.

I honestly considered putting something there myself.

[J.Cagle]

Originally Posted by LostMy65

I like the mud flap.

I honestly considered putting something there myself.

If only that was a mud flap.....Its actually just a piece of sheet metal riveted on the outside with a couple small pieces of metal screwed into it from the inside to cover up some rust holes. The previous owner did that. Not me

[markeb01]

Looks like you’re on your way now. Nice looking truck, good luck with the project. The sheet metal mudflap may not be there for the right reason, but the concept has benefit. It’s a shame GM practiced “designed obsolescence”. Had they made a few minor improvements, most of these trucks could have easily survived without major rust issues.

[J.Cagle]

Well the motor and tranny is pulled out, and the front crossmember/ suspension is ready to roll out once I take the two shock bolts loose. Once I get that out Ill strip down the front frame rails and paint them. Then Ill re-paint the fire wall back the original paint color.

[J.Cagle]

Here is the progress Ive made the last couple days. Not much, but I can only work on it after work is all.



Here is a picture of the fire wall all cleaned up. This is the original paint in it. Should I leave it how it is, or repaint it? All the inner fenders and frame rails will be repainted back semi-gloss black. And The 350 will be repainted orange while its out. What are you thoughts?




Also, do I need this middle crossmember, or does it need to be removed? I will be adding a th350. The suburban it's coming out of only has the far back crossmember that attaches to the tail shaft.

And, this front radiator bar. Will I need to remove it?

[Captainfab]

I would leave the firewall as it is. It cleaned up very nicely That bellhousing crossmember will need to come out for an auto trans. Just use the trans crossmember from your donor Suburban. The radiator crossmember should stay, as it adds support behind the steering box. If you're not going to use an original style radiator, the saddles can be removed.

[J.Cagle]

Whats the best/easiest way to remove the bell housing crossmember? I noticed the back two rivets on the top of the frame are about covered by the cab. Looks like Ill be loosening the cab and tilting it back some? Something I was really not planning on.

[Captainfab]

Yeah, that crossmember can be a pain to get the rivets out. If you grind both the top and bottoms flush you can usually drive the remainder out with a big hammer and punch. If the remainder doesn't want to come out, try drilling a hole thru the center. If you don't want to save it, it might be easier to cut the middle of the crossmember out first. Cut it close or flush with the frame with a torch or sawsall.

[J.Cagle]

I am also unsure what Ill need to do with the crossmember that the stock driveshaft runs through that has the carrier bearing on it. I am hoping that the suburban driveshaft will be a little long so I can have it cut down and reuse it. If I do that cross member will have to be removed. Is this the best way to do it, or would it weaken the frame to take it out. Maybe just cut the "loop" part off it so the other drive shaft clears? Sorry for all these question, but this is all new to me, and finding these problems as I go. Thanks, Jared

[Captainfab]

I wouldn't worry about the trailing arm front crossmember. You will have to have it for the trailing arms anyway. I would keep the 2 piece driveshaft. I don't understand why everyone wants a one piece driveshaft on a long bed. Which carrier bearing do you have? Does it hang from the top, or does it sit on a plate on the bottom of the crossmember?

[J.Cagle]

Ill have to look again at which carrier bearing I have I can't remember. Why is the 2 piece driveshaft better than the one piece? I really have no opinion either way b/c I don't have a clue haha. I was just gonna use the burban driveshaft since I thought it'd be easier to just have it cut to length. I will also be using the suburban rear end as well. I don't know if that matters or not.

[Slowtruk]

subscribed. beautiful truck

[J.Cagle]

Originally Posted by Slowtruk

subscribed. beautiful truck

Thanks! I hope to have some more pictures to add soon! It hasnt changed much yet. Its been 105 degrees everyday and I just havent felt like working on it after work