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08-13-2003, 08:46 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Cold, Snowy High Level, Alberta Canada Eh
Posts: 394
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I need a Stick Shift!!!!!!
Big question here. Im sick of an auto in my truck. its a 72 gmc longbed. i just dropped in the new engine, and performance isnt what i expected, do to the fact that the auto tranny shifts much before the power is down to the ground. i need a stick so that i can hold it out there, and drop the clutch to smoke the tires.I was wondering what the easiest way was to go about the auto to sitck **** swithc? does anyone make a kit to do this? if not, what is involed in this switch? i know its a big project, but that dont matter. i want a stick shift. whats a good tranny to get for a 350? i know that some of these trucks came with a four no the floor. is it possible to bolt in a 4 speed?
what is involved in drivleine changes? Any other problems i would come across? anyone have pitucres if theyve already done the swap? thanx alot guys. sorry bout the long post dale
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2003 yamaha raptor. Stock, but it still hauls!!!! 2000 skiddo mxz 700. Camoplast 1.5 inch track, jaws twin pipes, b+b can, custom built and weighted clutch, wiseco piston, high comp heads. its very fast. wow. 72 c-10 longbox. Bright Orange. Brand new 350, rv cam, performer intake, qjet, headers, 2 1/2 inch exhaust into hooker areo chamber mufflers. Body work coming soon. "dont let yer mind wander, its to little to go places by itself." "Forget the herse, cause i'll never die"-ACDC Back In Black "If It's To Loud, Yer Just Too Old" "I Love Anything Fast Enough To Do Something Stupid In" "Instant idiot, just add beer!!"" |
08-13-2003, 11:38 PM | #2 |
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ANYONE>>>>>
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2003 yamaha raptor. Stock, but it still hauls!!!! 2000 skiddo mxz 700. Camoplast 1.5 inch track, jaws twin pipes, b+b can, custom built and weighted clutch, wiseco piston, high comp heads. its very fast. wow. 72 c-10 longbox. Bright Orange. Brand new 350, rv cam, performer intake, qjet, headers, 2 1/2 inch exhaust into hooker areo chamber mufflers. Body work coming soon. "dont let yer mind wander, its to little to go places by itself." "Forget the herse, cause i'll never die"-ACDC Back In Black "If It's To Loud, Yer Just Too Old" "I Love Anything Fast Enough To Do Something Stupid In" "Instant idiot, just add beer!!"" |
08-13-2003, 11:57 PM | #3 |
ran out of money
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: northern, NJ
Posts: 925
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4 speed
i don't know what would take to switch over to stick, but to the best of my knowledge the 4 speeds that came stock in these trucks are like sm465's a top loader that will not shift fast. i have the sm465 in an 89 k-5 blazer that is lifted and it is low geared and does not shift fast. these are by far no car 4 speeds that you might be thinking of.our trucks also came with 3 speeds on the tree (as mine did) and you can buy a hurst kit for it and you can shift those really pretty quick, i like mine a lot. as for your auto maybe a different tourqe converter or a shift kit can help you gain the power you want without blowing a lot of money..... i hope i helped you out somewhat, best of luck....
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Modify everything, leave nothing alone!~ Last edited by 71Rat; 08-14-2003 at 12:01 AM. |
08-14-2003, 05:59 AM | #4 |
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Location: Fernley, Nevada, USA
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Yea these granny low SM465 4 speeds don't like fast shifts. You will end up blowing it to pieces if you go that route and speed shift. Your best bet is probably a Muncie 4 speed. You can find them on E-bay, in junk yards or tranny shops. You’re probably going to spend $1500- $2500 by the time it’s all said and done if you do it your self.
Some issues you will have to deal with are: The transmission floor hump: Is your hump removable or solid? Either way it will have to be modified/ swapped with a tall one for the manual tranny and then probably for the location of the Muncie stick. The clutch petal and linkage: This will have to be taken from another truck The bell housing: Your going to need one so make sure it comes with the tranny. Driveshaft length: Might be ok but budget in a length change Column: Swap that as well or modify yours to remove the lever and linkage. Clutch: You will need a flywheel, a starter, and at least a stage 3 clutch, and pressure plate if you want to hold it out there and drop it and roast the tires safely in one of these trucks. I won’t lie on a scale of 1 to 10, (1 being an oil/filter change and 10 being rebuilding an automatic transmission) this is a class 5 mechanical job. If you need to ask what is involved, chances are you will not be able to do the work yourself. Not trying to discourage you but get some help. If that sounds overwhelming be lucky you don't have a 4X4 transfercase to deal with. You may be ahead upgrading your auto tranny with a stall converter, shift kit, floor shifter and tranny cooler. Another thing to look as is your truck will respond better over all with a numerically higher gear ratio. For what you want I would recommend at least 3.73's but that’s still all of about a class 4 mechanical job… Pete.
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08-14-2003, 08:15 AM | #5 |
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Location: Redding,CA...USA
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put a stall converter and steeper gears in.....then let the smoke roll
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08-14-2003, 10:16 AM | #6 |
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Location: St. James, MO
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I pulled a PG out of my old '67 and swapped in first a 3-sp, then a 4-sp Saginaw. chevypete396 has it mostly right, though for a 3- or 4-sp CAR type manual, you don't *need* a high hump: you can just cut a hole for linkage (if you don't use a stock 3-on-the-tree column). Drive shaft length was NOT an issue in my case--PG= 3 sp = 4sp (Saginaw). Make sure you get the z-bar mounting bracket off the engine in the donor truck.
There are two types of clutch pedal mounting systems, one common one that easily swaps in (put the pedal shadft through the pre-existing hole in the column brace/pedal mount); the other (heavy duty) requires you to swap the whole pedal mount (which is not difficult but does take longer and is more involved). The swap from PG to 3-sp was one of the first really involved tasks I ever did on one of these trucks, and I had decent help, but it's not something to be scared of.
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'69 Longstep K-10: 327/SM465/T-221/Closed Knuckle Dana44/12-bolt. |
08-14-2003, 02:42 PM | #7 |
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Northern Illinois
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One point that I haven't seen raised --
The normal clutch linkage fastens into the block in a specially machined spot. Manual transmission and automatic transmissions blocks are NOT identical. You'd have to work around this some way -- either a non-standard clutch linkage (say hydraulic) or replace your block(!!!) or get it machined (not sure if this is possible). Brian |
08-14-2003, 02:48 PM | #8 |
Fabricate till you "puke"
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Ill
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The block should have the bolt holes for the clutch pivot ball......some of the 400 sb's had the bosses on the block, but they were not drilled & tapped.....
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08-15-2003, 02:44 PM | #9 |
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Location: Cold, Snowy High Level, Alberta Canada Eh
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woah. that sounds like a lot of work. maybe im better to go to lower gears with a shift kit and stall converter. the cam i have isnt overly steep, but it fells like the engine is being bogged down before it can make torque. i think i might just order 4.10 gears and see what kinda difference that makes. thanx fer all tha help guys
dale
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2003 yamaha raptor. Stock, but it still hauls!!!! 2000 skiddo mxz 700. Camoplast 1.5 inch track, jaws twin pipes, b+b can, custom built and weighted clutch, wiseco piston, high comp heads. its very fast. wow. 72 c-10 longbox. Bright Orange. Brand new 350, rv cam, performer intake, qjet, headers, 2 1/2 inch exhaust into hooker areo chamber mufflers. Body work coming soon. "dont let yer mind wander, its to little to go places by itself." "Forget the herse, cause i'll never die"-ACDC Back In Black "If It's To Loud, Yer Just Too Old" "I Love Anything Fast Enough To Do Something Stupid In" "Instant idiot, just add beer!!"" |
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