'72 Chevy SWB, Project Driver

[usmcchevy]

Originally Posted by 68 TT

Good idea with the blocks of wood for where the bed rails are.

Don't forget to put about 400 pounds on the rear frame area to compress the suspension to where it will be with the bed, tailgate & rear bumper on. That little bit of movement can make a big difference in pipe placement around the trailing arms.

I'm taking lots of measurments and test fitting. Still thinking about removing the springs just to be sure.

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Hey nice work on the frame. Looks like you have a plan for making the exhaust too.

Couple of questions. Will you need to cut clearence in your bed for the Blazer tank? I just picked one up myself. I am gonna set my fuel system like yours too.
Did you use a Corvette regulator/filter? How do you know if you need one? I don't think my engine has a return at the fuel rail. Does that mean I need one of these style regulators? thanks

Yes, the bed crossmember needs to be notched for the Blazer tank.



Yes, I used the vette filter/regulator. You need a regulator if your drivers side fuel rail doesn't have one built in with the return line. No matter what you need a filter, the vette filter/reg is just a relatively cheap and easy way to knock out both. You can also run a aftermarket regulator and figure out a filter, but I think the vette filter/reg is the less expensive route.

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by usmcchevy

Yes, the bed crossmember needs to be notched for the Blazer tank.


Yes, I used the vette filter/regulator. You need a regulator if your drivers side fuel rail doesn't have one built in with the return line. No matter what you need a filter, the vette filter/reg is just a relatively cheap and easy way to knock out both. You can also run a aftermarket regulator and figure out a filter, but I think the vette filter/reg is the less expensive route.

Thanks Ben! I appreciate the help. I will just notch my bed for the tank before I mount it.

I'm cool with using the Vette filter. Sounds like a good setup. How do I tell if the fuel rail has a regulator?

[67shortie]

My intake had the dual fuel line, and the way to tell if yours has one is simply look for 2 connections at the rear of the fuel rail on the drivers side. One will curve into a vacuum pod the size of a trans regulator.

If you have only one line, you will need a external regulator like the Vette setup.

Easy stuff, but I like the dual line myself, it's cheaper

[usmcchevy]

After a month of vacation I back working on it. My little 110v welder is doing pretty good once I got it set right.





More later.

[Dieselwrencher]

Looking good!

[mcbassin]

Exhaust looks good Ben. Did you have to get some different wire for it?

[usmcchevy]

Thanks guys, more pics later today!

Just using mild steel wire.

[usmcchevy]

Still need to bring it back to the bumper and add the H pipe, but I guess it is going to be considered "done" for a little bit. Welder is having issues maintaining a arc for some reason. It sounds GREAT!! Quiet at idle, but open her up and you know its there

[mcbassin]

Exhaust is hooking good Ben! Glad you were able to weld it with the mig.

[66redw/white]

very clean. i love the way it dumps out. do we have an exhaust clip of this thing yet?

[usmcchevy]

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Exhaust is hooking good Ben! Glad you were able to weld it with the mig.

Thanks! It sure took a toll on my welder, I found a melted connection going to one of the transformers Oh well in a year I'm moving to MN where I have a Miller 175 and I can sell this thing.

Originally Posted by 66redw/white

very clean. i love the way it dumps out. do we have an exhaust clip of this thing yet?

Thanks! Sound clip will come later this week maybe beginning on next week....I have duty this weekend.

[66redw/white]

ahhhh duty! dont use the d word here! i thought this forum was supposed to be family friendly!!

somebodys gotta do it

[usmcchevy]

Still no sound clip...... Both of my cameras seem to be challenged in the audio department.

Bed back on, guy i bought the new bed from is still working on it.



Started working on getting these in.



Temp sender and adapter:






Then turned the glove box door latch into a switch. This is the type of switch I used. Just a cheap momentary switch.
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a...HBUTTON/1.html

Drilled a 15/64" hole in the bottom of the glove box latch. The latch was already missing the little tang that would keep the glove box door closed. When you push the button, the little lever inside pushes down in turn pushing on the switch.

15/64" Hole



Switch screwed in.

[68 TT]

So what is the switch for?

[oldblue1968chevy]

Probably the ejecto seato like the fast and furious movie

[usmcchevy]

Originally Posted by 68 TT

So what is the switch for?

Going to use it for tow/haul mode. The tow/haul mode has been reprogrammed in my computer to be "haul azz" mode, which is higher shift points and harder shifts.

[usmcchevy]

Originally Posted by oldblue1968chevy

Probably the ejecto seato like the fast and furious movie

So, wanna go for a ride?.....I'll drive

[oldblue1968chevy]

lol


Good thinkin' usein the button on the glovebox instead of cuttin holes

How do you open the glovebox

[mcbassin]

That is very good idea for the tow/haul butt switch. I like the gauges too.

[usmcchevy]

Originally Posted by oldblue1968chevy

lol


Good thinkin' usein the button on the glovebox instead of cuttin holes

How do you open the glovebox

Thanks! This is my soon to be gauge panel so the headlight/wiper chrome pieces keep it "closed"

Originally Posted by mcbassin

That is very good idea for the tow/haul butt switch. I like the gauges too.

Thanks! 5" Pro comp Autometers would have been my first choice, but I paid about $220 for these so I'm happy with them.

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by usmcchevy

Going to use it for tow/haul mode. The tow/haul mode has been reprogrammed in my computer to be "haul azz" mode, which is higher shift points and harder shifts.

Nice idea. Can't wait to see the finished glove box gauge panel.

Did you do the PCM reprogramming? I am considering buying the software to do it myself.

[oldblue1968chevy]

watta bout tackin some bolts to the backside to put nuts on the inside of the dash?

[usmcchevy]

Originally Posted by 68 TT

Nice idea. Can't wait to see the finished glove box gauge panel.

Did you do the PCM reprogramming? I am considering buying the software to do it myself.

Thanks, I had Black Bear performance do the computer. Next time around I'll buy the tuning software, I was just scared of the steep learning curve of tuning.

Originally Posted by oldblue1968chevy

watta bout tackin some bolts to the backside to put nuts on the inside of the dash?

Not needed, The headlight and wiper switch bezels hold the top tight and the bottom is held on by the part that holds the steering column grommet. Its not going anywhere.


This is what it looks like now. Still need to do a bit of die grinding in the small holes as the gauges fit a bit too tight.

[oldblue1968chevy]

So your going to use the button as a...button? I thought you would have to reach over to the glovebox...?

[66redw/white]

my understanding is there is a glove box cover thats goin where the steering wheel is and hes just using the button whole for the haul bauls button