64-66 door gaps

[66farmer]

What should the door gaps be and is there a easy way to adjust the doors.
Thanks for the help

[Clyde65]

When my body guy and I did my doors, he said they should be even. and no it isnt real easy by yourself, a floor jack is your friend and a buddy is a even better friend, he can hold your beer when needed!

[rustyrodknocker]

3/16"-1/4" would be ideal. up to 3/8 is normal my gmc was way looser than the chev and without 1/3 of the spotwelds. [which just fell apart compared to the chev] [ill still take a gmc everytime though]. i tried to lift mine up because the top was terrible. the body line doesnt line up if I get it where I want it. In those cases you have to build up the edge with a piece of tig wire. if you try to get the gap at the front of the door under a 1/4 they open into the fender real easy. custom guys like an 1/8" but these trucks dont take to that very well with factory hinges.

[dthela]

door front edge slightly inside fender, be careful opening door till adjusted!!!!!!!!

[66farmer]

Thanks for the info. I,m just test fitting the door know because I replaced the rocker. It all looks ok not great the line between windshield and door is the worst a little tight at the bottom. I have seen other trucks with the same gap problem. Have you guy,s had this problem ?

[dthela]

not at that point.

[64fleetside]

specs are 5/32" all around except 1/4" at the bottom, IIRC.

[rustyrodknocker]

Originally Posted by 66farmer

Thanks for the info. I,m just test fitting the door know because I replaced the rocker. It all looks ok not great the line between windshield and door is the worst a little tight at the bottom. I have seen other trucks with the same gap problem. Have you guy,s had this problem ?

mine has a little of that. parallel gaps on two adjacet sides mismatch on the opposite. no biggie. easiest way to fix it is backup 25 feet. my rockers are inset from the cab 1/8" to a full 1/4" and the bed was put on crooked this is my 68. 292 manual trans, power nothing. no hand fitting from the factory. looks like it was built on a moving line and it was. I never noticed a poor fit up intill I got around modern cars. Then I noticed something was different, and it hit me. The fit up is great . on all of them. but the paint sucks. on almost all of them. Ill take the old paint anyday. I think the in 70's paint quality peaked. on trucks anyway.

[64fleetside]

They were work trucks back then, not meant to be pretty-I've had two low mileage originals, door/fender fit was poor in regards to gaps, but they always shut good. Many body "adjustments" back then were applied by rubber hammer. The door/fender gaps on the one I'm building is much better than OE, but it took some work/time to get there.

My buddy's '69 C10 had the worst fitting OE sheetmetal I've ever seen, but everything shut/opened perfectly.

[aerotruk63]

Originally Posted by 64fleetside

specs are 5/32" all around except 1/4" at the bottom, IIRC.

[Auctioneerhere]

I have noticed the bottoms of the doors are the worst for fitting, I have a 61 now that fits decent everywhere except at the bottom of the door & the cab corner.

This is on a truck that has all original solid sheet metal. I blasted it to bare metal inside & out, so no surprises. I looked at ten of my other parts trucks and GM had them all over the place. I may wind up slicing the cab corner vertically to put the gap closer to the door & weld up the releif cut.

[1971 GMC SHORTY]

I’ve always Used a Paint Stick To Start with