rearend seal leaking

[Andyboy]

Ok I unbolted the drive line and tried to remove the nut from the rearend, but no luck. I even had the truck on the ground and could not break it loose. The truck would move backwards when I would try and break it free. Is there a trick to remove the nut or did the PO tighten it to much.?


I don't have an E-break also. Thanks

[65-65]

Air gun should take it off no problem.

[protrash64]

Thats the pinion nut. It holds a crush sleeve that sets tension on the rear gears. From what I understand, if it's leaking, generally the rear is worn. If the torque is not duplicated when re-installing it will change some gear clearances slightly. I hope some others chime in but I trust my sources on this one, and I dont have experience rebuilding rear axles, either.

[Big Fenders]

When you get the nut loose..count revolutions to remove the nut..replace the seal and install with those same number of revolutions . With an impact driver you can't count the turns..get a big cheater bar to loosen..
Bob

[dugvera@gmail.com]

I had to replace one and the guy at the drive line shop said mark the nut and count threads. The jack handle is always my go to cheater.

[maxwoof]

I got mine off with my harbor freight electric impact believe it or not. Depending on what rear you have all of the above may not apply. My H072 does not have the crush sleeve for preload and therefore the number of turns/torque does not apply. Check a shop manual if you can.
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[dugvera@gmail.com]

Originally Posted by maxwoof

I got mine off with my harbor freight electric impact believe it or not. Depending on what rear you have all of the above may not apply. My H072 does not have the crush sleeve for preload and therefore the number of turns/torque does not apply. Check a shop manual if you can.
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That was the 10 bolt in my '76 I was working on. Not sure on other models?????

[66Gilbert]

Originally Posted by dugvera@gmail.com

I had to replace one and the guy at the drive line shop said mark the nut and count threads. The jack handle is always my go to cheater.

Just did a pinion seal on one of my 66' trucks last week and had to use an impact to break the nut loose. As dugvera stated up above this is very important. There are videos on youtube. Here is one to view, It is not a 60-66 truck but it is the same principle. http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=15zHpz6Zx8c

[gofastnut]

You can also use a beam type torque wrench, probably inch/lbs. with the driveline removed and the rear axle in the air, use the torque wrench to turn the pinion and take a reading of what it is when you're turning it. If you do that with the above suggestions, such as counting threads, you can fine tune it when you put it back together.
Just curious, does the pinion yoke move up/down or in/out at all?

[maxwoof]

Come to think of it, my front axle -Dana 44 5F- does not have the crush sleeve either. I think this is particular to the 3/4 ton trucks. On these, replacing the pinion seal is a fairly easy and straightforward job. Just R&R.
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[ChevySixty6]

I did this last year to my '66. There are some other posts on here that talk about how to do it also. First count the threads that are sticking out from the face of the yoke nut, or depth mic the distance. What i then did was make a bar to keep the yoke from turning while you try and break the nut free. I drilled a piece of angle, 1/4 thk x 2 x 2 x around 30" long, to fit two of the holes on the end of the yoke that fit the u joint cap. I also torched a half moon out of it, so i could get the socket down on the nut. The bar needs to be long enough so when it starts to try and turn, it will rotate around 'till it hits part of the frame, or the ground, that'll keep the yoke from rotating. Then i just got a piece of 4 ft pipe to use as a cheater, and it came right off. Replace the seal, and re-install the nut to your earlier measurement. It'll take you longer to make the bar, than to do the rest of the job.

[GMR-PERFORMANCE]

If the yoke has a groove in it, you can install a speedy sleeve to give you a new sealing surface. I had to do that on my truck. Try to find a double lip seal as well. My truck is running the 8.2 front load so parts are not the same but same idea. WHen you run the nut back tight , be carfeful as the amount of tq will set the pinion depth on the ring gear. As stated already there is a crush sleeve behind it. I would use red loctitie on the threads to ensure it stays tight and where you put it.

[gofastnut]

Good reminder, GMR!!