65 C10 Disc Brake Conversion - Which route is the best?

[ctandc]

I’ve read the sticky (GREAT info BTW – Much thanks to lolife99 for putting those posts together, that took a lot of research and work) and I’m starting to get my head wrapped around what’s involved to swap the ’65 C10 over to disc brakes.

I’ve also read a bunch of different swap threads (thanks to the search feature) and I know that people have done it many different ways.

This is definitely a budget build, but I still want to do it right.

Since I’ll be yanking the body and cleaning / painting the frame, I figured the easiest way to get power disc brakes (and be setup for plug and play power steering) is to rob the entire front suspension, steering box and steering column from a ’73 or newer truck.

It seems besides modifying some holes and possibly drilling a few, the crossmember and newer suspension and brakes bolts right in. I intend on using the entire steering setup from the donor (I’ll replace wear items of course) including steering box and steering column. I also add the benefit of being able to bolt up a factory front swaybar setup as well.

The only “downside” I can see to using the ’73-up entire front crossmember is the fact I need to run some custom brakes lines, where as if I kept the ’65 crossmember I could get conversion brake hoses for the disc brake setup.

Can I keep the ’65 crossmember, but use everything else from the later model donor truck, as per this post HERE?

The one thing that worries me about using the later model crossmember is motor mounts. I'm keeping the 230 engine for now. I can't seem to find a build where someone has done the entire crossmember swap and used a 6cyl.


Has anyone else done this?

What about front end alignment and specs?

Use '65 shocks or newer model?

Springs?

Thanks in advance for any guidance here.

[dennislbrooks]

Using your existing upper and lower A-arms, from my experience, use the balljoints that match the spindles you are using. Use disc parts related to the spindle. You can use your existing tie rod if you use the tie rod ends from the spindle year and reduce from 11/16" RH (71-87) thread to 5/8" LH as you have now. I have done about 4 sets like that. you may still need some brake line modifications. You will also need the proportioning valve.



see this link

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=165193

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by ctandc

Can I keep the ’65 crossmember, but use everything else from the later model donor truck, as per this post HERE?

The one thing that worries me about using the later model crossmember is motor mounts. I'm keeping the 230 engine for now. I can't seem to find a build where someone has done the entire crossmember swap and used a 6cyl.

What about front end alignment and specs?

Use '65 shocks or newer model?

Springs?
Thanks in advance for any guidance here.

I actually recommend using the original crossmember and conversion brake hoses from ECE.

Every one wants to swap the entire crossmember.
These things need to be torn apart, inspected, and rebuilt.

There are no more low mile 71-87 crossmembers assemblies left.
(or even 71-91 2wd burbs or 71-82 2wd blazers)
You need to inspect control arm bushings, tie rods, and ball joints.

Other stuff like new rotors, calipers and bearings,... while your at it.
Using conversion ECE disc brake hoses will allow you to retain your old 60-70 drum brake steel lines,... but you still might have to bend or tweak a set of steel lines from the crossmember up to the M/C.

What are the rest of your plans?
Drop spindles?
Drop springs?

[ctandc]

Originally Posted by dennislbrooks

Using your existing upper and lower A-arms, from my experience, use the balljoints that match the spindles you are using. Use disc parts related to the spindle. You can use your existing tie rod if you use the tie rod ends from the spindle year and reduce from 11/16" RH (71-87) thread to 5/8" LH as you have now. I have done about 4 sets like that. you may still need some brake line modifications. You will also need the proportioning valve.

Thanks!

I would consider using the donor year (later model) steering linkage, but I’m guessing I’d have to drill holes in the frame to mount the later model idler arm to the ’65 frame.

Using a later model power steering box (and the frame adapter sold by one of the members here) and pitman arm, will the ’65 steering linkage (drag link, etc) line up?

see this link

Originally Posted by dennislbrooks

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=165193

Thanks. What tools would I need? I’ve chased threads and tapped holes plenty of times, but never ‘removed’ threads and changed the direction.

Originally Posted by lolife99

I actually recommend using the original crossmember and conversion brake hoses from ECE.

That was another thing that attracted me this way. I’m trying to do this the most efficient (read cheap) way, but still do a quality job. I mean I’m not going to rob a greasy, used up front end then just bolt it on. My kid will be driving this sucker.

I also HATE bending and flaring brake lines. HATE IT. With a PASSION. Helped with a project where we dumped an EFI drivetrain in a G-Body. We spent more in beer, band-aids, ruined lines and replacing cheap flaring and bending tools (then buying nicer ones) than we would have simply buying custom lines.

Originally Posted by lolife99

Every one wants to swap the entire crossmember.
These things need to be torn apart, inspected, and rebuilt.

There are no more low mile 71-87 crossmembers assemblies left.
(or even 71-91 2wd burbs or 71-82 2wd blazers)
You need to inspect control arm bushings, tie rods, and ball joints.

Honestly, unless I run across some low mile jewel of a donor (yeah right) I was planning on stripping and painting the donor parts anyway. Then replacing balljoints, control arm bushings, tie rod ends etc.

Originally Posted by lolife99

Other stuff like new rotors, calipers and bearings,... while your at it.
Using conversion ECE disc brake hoses will allow you to retain your old 60-70 drum brake steel lines,... but you still might have to bend or tweak a set of steel lines from the crossmember up to the M/C.

I’ll simply rebuild the old ones, unless the pistons are shot, then rebuilt calipers are usually cheaper.

I figure using the prop valve from the donor and hunting down donors with already bent lines, I get something in there. Bending and flaring lines are a last resort. I’d almost rather shampoo with old gear oil. Almost.

Originally Posted by lolife99

What are the rest of your plans?
Drop spindles?
Drop springs?

We definitely want to drop it. I wanted to stay away from drop spindles and just go with drop springs in front and rear, and I’m thinking I might have to use lowering blocks in the rear as well. I also want to add a front swaybar. I want the truck to drive well, and not crazy stiff. I’d also like to be able to throw something a bit heavier than a cooler in the back without bottoming it out, not full on work truck, but at least useable.

Looks like 275/60/15 (somewhere around there) tires all around with painted / trimmed 6 lug Truck Rally’s or blacked out steel wheels.

Hot rod (flat / matte) black is the plan. The kid loves the look and so do I. Maybe a decently durable SS Urethane that would hold up for at least a few years as a daily.
Thanks for the help guys!!! I’m pricing out my options now.

[dennislbrooks]

Using a later model power steering box (and the frame adapter sold by one of the members here) and pitman arm, will the ’65 steering linkage (drag link, etc) line up?
--------------------------------
If you have power steering now, I would not change the box, maybe the pitman arm -- if you do have to change anything but I doubt that also. Not sure on a 65....

Dennis
---------------------------------
Thanks. What tools would I need? I’ve chased threads and tapped holes plenty of times, but never ‘removed’ threads and changed the direction.

---------------------------------
choices

-- machine shop
-- remove threads with a lathe leaving enough for a 5/8" LH tap
-- remove threads with a bench grinder with caution leaving enough for a 5/8" LH tap

Dennis

[ctandc]

Originally Posted by dennislbrooks

If you have power steering now, I would not change the box, maybe the pitman arm -- if you do have to change anything but I doubt that also. Not sure on a 65....

Manual steering currently.

Originally Posted by dennislbrooks

choices
-- machine shop
-- remove threads with a lathe leaving enough for a 5/8" LH tap
-- remove threads with a bench grinder with caution leaving enough for a 5/8" LH tap
Dennis

No lathe handy. I’m sure I could find someone locally to rethread them for me. Not sure what it would cost.

[ctandc]

I'm adding up parts for the different routes to get this done, as I want power disc brakes AND power steering at the same time. Currently the truck has neither.

Since I can get the 73-87 upper and lower control arms for a good deal, and since I want to convert to the later model power steering box, I’m thinking about doing the following:

- 73-87 upper and lower control arms swapped onto the ’65 cross member
- 73-87 spindles (for 1 ¼” rotors)
- Matching calipers
- 73-87 steering box and pitman arm
- 73-87 complete steering linkage
- Mounting the later model idler arm
- Matching proportioning valve

In this setup I was planning on robbing the same donor vehicle of its brakes hoses (metal and rubber) to see what I need beyond that to match them up to my current lines. More than likely I’ll probably replace all the hard lines since they are over 40 years old. Since the frame will be all by its lonesome at this point, I’ll just bend / flare the lines as needed.

I also plan on using the mounting plate for the later model steering box.

Any details on what people have done to lengthen the brake pushrod to match up to this new setup?

What about swapping in the later model disc brake pedal assembly? (I’m losing the 3 speed for an OD anyway).