09-22-2003, 06:44 PM | #1 |
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Battery Gauge
This is the most my battery/amp gauge ever shows; is this normal? This is at idle and it is exactly the same at cruising. I haven't had any problems since I replaced my alternator/voltage regulator 6 months ago or so, but I just wanted to know what everyone else was seeing on their vehicles - if it was similar etc.
I'm also considering adding some extra autometer guages for oil temp, transmission temp, and maybe another. - any suggestions to what other gauges to add? I just like to have a good idea of how things are doing. On my other cars I have a palm pilot with a datalogger program connected to the diagnostic port to view all my timing, knock, temps etc. so I guess I want to be more informed when I'm driving the beast. Thanks in advance!
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'72 Chevy Cheyenne Super (402 BB / 3/4 Ton / Hedman Hedders / Air Gap Intake / Street Avenger Carb) '90 Talon TSi (Turbo / All Wheel Drive / Modded) '93 Dodge Stealth RT/TT (320 HP / All Wheel Drive and Steering / Wife's car) |
09-22-2003, 06:48 PM | #2 |
Mike
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Mine will jump to the 2nd line above the half way mark.After about 2seconds it goes where yours is.
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09-22-2003, 06:53 PM | #3 |
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that is where mine is at all the time as well. Only barely moves when some other electrical item is turned on. Haven't had any problems in that area. (wood)knock-knock..
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09-22-2003, 06:59 PM | #4 |
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Is that guage supposed to work??? None of my truck's ever had that guage work..
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GO BIG GREEN GO DUCKS MEMBER #6377 72 k-5 daily driver 6'' lift 35'' 350-350-205 slowly getting rust free. Project "7DEUCE" check out my build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=267665 Tim Powell..R.I.P EastSideLowlife..... R.I.P.. |
09-22-2003, 07:00 PM | #5 |
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Cool, then it must be normal. It's just one less thing I have to worry about then.
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'72 Chevy Cheyenne Super (402 BB / 3/4 Ton / Hedman Hedders / Air Gap Intake / Street Avenger Carb) '90 Talon TSi (Turbo / All Wheel Drive / Modded) '93 Dodge Stealth RT/TT (320 HP / All Wheel Drive and Steering / Wife's car) |
09-22-2003, 07:57 PM | #6 |
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The amp meters work somewhat. They are an indicator more than they are a gauge. I would check the two fuses to make sure and check the amp output of your alternator. If the battery and charging is good the amp meters will go back to neutral fairly quickly. Also, check for discharge when you pull the lights on without the engine working. It should discharge about 1/2 way.
Jim |
09-22-2003, 10:29 PM | #7 | |
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Quote:
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09-23-2003, 12:13 AM | #8 |
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If I looked at the schematics right, it looks more like it's setup to read voltage instead of "amps". If it's a voltmeter, then it's just "indicating" the battery voltage. A true "ampmeter" will show the "draw" of charging or discharging current from the battery.
Any ideas on whether I'm right on this?? Orion 762 |
09-23-2003, 01:59 AM | #9 |
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The amp meter measures the load (accessory draw)across the battery or A shunt. The volt meter is measuring voltage to ground. They look similar in the way they are physically hooked up, But one measures volt the other amps. I hope this made sence.
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09-23-2003, 02:33 AM | #10 |
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Bad gauge
Hi,
I'm working on my second truck now and neither one ever worked I have never found out why it didn’t. I even took one out and placed it in a wire setup where it should work and it still didn't so I gave up on it. If someone ever figures this out let me know it’s nice when all the gauges works Is there also a gauge for the blank one on the right hand side of the steering wheel? Or is this a special option. (I'm sorry if the spelling isn't correct,i'm trying the best I can ) 1972 Chevy Pickup longbed 502ci Th400 "IF IT AIN'T BROKE DON'T TRY TO FIX IT" |
09-23-2003, 05:43 AM | #11 |
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I think options for the phantom (#3) position gauge were clock or vacuum (manifold pressure). Both pretty rare.
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Every 25 years I like to rebuild that 292, whether it needs it or not. Last edited by '68OrangeSunshine; 09-23-2003 at 05:45 AM. |
09-23-2003, 08:31 AM | #12 |
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I had replaced my regulator and then my alternator. My gauge worked and would go past that mark as it was over charging.
(I had probable damaged it trying to figgure out my charging problems. It was the alternator.) I replaced the regulator again and now it stays where yours is. The over charging problem was fixed with the (2cd) new regulator. (Values stayed in a normal limit). |
09-23-2003, 12:35 PM | #13 |
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Webhendrix,
Did you check the two 4 amp fuses on either side of the radiator? I have not seen an amp meter burn up in one of these trucks, although I guess it could be possible. The fuses do very well at protecting the gauge. Jim |
09-23-2003, 12:40 PM | #14 |
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I want to emphasize to you fellows, JimK is right-90% of the time the amp meter problems are due to a blown fuse just where Jim says they are-either side of the radiator.
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Stepsides look like real trucks! Smitty |
09-23-2003, 01:22 PM | #15 |
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I replaced my amp meter with a volt meter and it works great. I got the volt meter from Pep Boys.
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09-23-2003, 02:08 PM | #16 | |
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Re: Bad gauge
Quote:
Contrary to popular myth, there was never a clock uption offered. You can retrofit some early GM clocks and make it look "factory". The stuff legends are made from.
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Currently on or near the homestead: 67 Chevy SWB 2WD stepside 350/3 on tree (Pat's) 67 GMC SWB 2WD Fleet 402/auto (Brian's under construction) 67 Chevy 3/4 ton 2WD 402/auto (Business Hauler) 67 Chevy 1 ton dually 2WD 396/4 speed (Former business hauler, Needs TLC) 68 Chevy 1/2 ton Suburban 2WD 250 six/3 on tree (Brian's Needs TLC) 70 Chevy 3/4 ton 4WD 350/4 speed (Pat's - Disguised as a 68 GMC) 71 Chevy SWB stepside (Crushed by tree - parts donor) 72 Chevy 3/4 ton 4WD (Parts donor) 72 Chevy 3/4 ton 4WD Suburban (Parts Donor) 72 GMC 3/4 ton 4WD 292 six/4 speed (Mine - Disguised as a 67 GMC) 81 GMC 4WD Dually Dump Body 350/4 speed (Business Hauler) 82 Camaro Z/28 355/Super T-10 (Pat's toy) 93 Caprice 9C1 (Brian's Cop Car) 02 Toyota Camry (Reliable but a souless steel and plastic hulk) 2011 2SS RS Camaro M6 Factory Hurst Shifter Maybe I need to sell some of this crap Yet another Bozo with a sawz-all |
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09-23-2003, 02:28 PM | #17 |
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clock dash
here is our cluster, (like said before it's not factory) we got the clock out of some GM car and made it fit.
[IMG]http://www.****************.com/boardpics/clock1.jpg[/IMG] |
09-23-2003, 02:31 PM | #18 |
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Rick;
Do you remember what car it came from? I'd like to have one!
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Stepsides look like real trucks! Smitty |
09-23-2003, 02:35 PM | #19 |
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it's been a few years we think it was some kind of early 70's buick
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09-23-2003, 03:07 PM | #20 |
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OK--thanks
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09-23-2003, 04:36 PM | #21 |
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My amp gauge never used to move, then I changed one of those fueses in the harness and it moved for a while, then it just quit, the fuses looked good and never had a problem with it. I am having problems now though, bad connections somewhere. Gauge hasn't moved for a while now though. oh well
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09-23-2003, 04:53 PM | #22 |
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My old printed circuit board had some broken leads; that was part of my problem. I will have to wait till I get the old guy back together to know whether I've cured all the problems.
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09-24-2003, 02:53 AM | #23 | |
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Quote:
Cya, Edmond
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09-24-2003, 01:02 PM | #24 |
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since my truck has such a big grind on the cam, when the truck is idling the ammeter guage tends to twich quite a bit, so I know mine is working.
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09-25-2003, 01:41 PM | #25 | |
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Re: Re: Bad gauge
Quote:
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