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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: westfield wi.
Posts: 31
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i have to replace frt & rear supports,cab corners,both rockers and front section of drivers floor. in what order should i do this? this is the first time i am attemping this. its a 71 chevy swb, if that makes a difference.
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Casselton, North Dakota 58012
Posts: 1,082
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Re: a little help on cab repair
Word of advice...weld a rod or something sturdy between your firewall and rear of cab so your cab doesn't flex. I replaced all of what your wanting plus the front section of the pass side. Didn't weld rods across and when I went to put the doors back on they didn't fit as well as they should from the cab springing or flexing.
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Utah
Posts: 1,562
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Re: a little help on cab repair
There are a lot of good posts for exactly what you're getting ready to tackle. Here's a good one with a link to a 2 part video (I didn't watch it in full, but what I did watch was pretty detailed).
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=467531 You can also look through my build as I documented my process pretty well. |
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#4 |
Still Learning
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Central Oklahoma
Posts: 10,108
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Re: a little help on cab repair
I recently did a full gammot of rust repair on my cab LINK-starting about half way down on page 29.
I broke my rust repair down into sides. I started on the driver side fixed all of it then moved to the pass. side. I started with the rear supports on my cab. I didn't have to change the front ones but did have to cut some rust out of them. Next, I replaced the cab corner, then I cut out the floor rust, then a pillar, then then inner rockers, then outer rockers. I had to cut the cab corners out to access the rear supports. I didn't weld the braces in that were suggested above. I did take a bunch of measurements and monitored these measurements during the repair process. I also test fit my doors several times while I was doing the repair. I think it's a good idea to brace it up good to avoid movement. This rust repair you are talking about doing is a Major deal. The repair panels for the most part don't fit or need to be shaped, hacked and made to fit. If you take your time it can be done but it will test you mentally. I would try to find a "rust free" cab from the dry desert areas of the country if I could. Not trying to discourage you but be aware this is a long tedious process.
__________________
Mike "69 Short Wide" My Project 86 Silverado Landen's Project Instagram: @mcbassin My Website C/10 Club Oklahoma Facebook Group Last edited by mcbassin; 06-05-2012 at 12:44 AM. |
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#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: westfield wi.
Posts: 31
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thanks for all the info and pictures. it will be a big help. P.S. i bought the plans and built a TIP&TILT for the cab. i hope this will make it a little easier.
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