Best Stall Converter for my truck?

[sir_talk_alot]

so im looking at putting a stall converter in my truck till i get all my stuff together for a 4spd swap. ive got a 350, aluminum intake, cleaned up 416 heads. mild cam, and a t350. from what i have been told my rearend is 373s. anyways id like to get a stall converter for the truck to help it alittle more. more spunk taking off and spinning tires. what would be a good converter? ive been looking at 24-2800, what about 2,000? to small. its not a race machine but id love to break tires and chirp tires changing gears, im fixing to install the b&m shift improver kit. opinions on what to look for? its a shortbed truck if weight matters.

[hugger6933]

Hi, Mike I think that 2200 to 2400 is about right that would be the B&M holeshot or TCI saturday night spec. You are running a small block right. The same converter in the same truck with a big block will act differently thanthe same with a small block. I woul'nt go over a 2800 stall and with just about any converter stall you will need a trans cooler other than the one in the radiator. Those stall converters make a lot of heat more so if the stall is higher than the driving rpm range. My fist big stall in my old chevelle was a 4500 stall that I carried back to TCI and had them loosen up a bit. It was something at the stoplight. Then I put a big[8inch] one in that was custom built and it was a 5500 [plus 150]

[Scotty-D]

It really depends mostly on cam specs, compression, and rear gear.

What cam are you running?
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[sir_talk_alot]

Cam specs r 279/479 in a small block. Ill be going 4spd with a bigblock later down the road.
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[Jay W]

2000 to 2400 rpm i think would be lots of stall if you are doing stop light racing. wont make to high of temps and will be a little more "drivable".

where dose your engine make peak torque? I found this off a website somewhere

"Here are some general guidelines for selecting a converter:

According to B&M, the stall speed should be rated at about 500-750 RPM under your engine's peak torque RPM. If you don't know this figure, be conservative in your estimate. You don't want to end up with a converter that has too high of a stall speed. Don't be too conservative, though - it is possible to get a converter with too low of a stall speed, which will have roughly the same effect as too high of a stall speed.

Know your camshaft specifications. If your cam has less than 220 degrees duration (@ 0.050" lift), which most street machines do, you make most of your torque down low in the RPM range, and you probably won't need more than a 2500 RPM stall speed, if even that much.

Have a good idea of your vehicle's weight. Remember, lighter vehicles will lower the rated stall speed; heavier vehicles will have the opposite effect.

High stall converters generate a lot of extra heat. The installation of an external transmission cooler is mandatory with a higher than stock stall speed converter. Actually, you should have one in there anyway. Heat is the number one killer of transmissions - 85% of all trannies die because of inadequate cooling.

The best advice I can give anyone buying a converter is to talk to the manufacturer. They know torque converters better than anybody, and can help you to select exactly the right converter for your combination. This article was designed to give you some insight into what is needed to determine the right converter, and to make you familiar with the terms and what you need to know to speak intelligently with the experts."

[Scotty-D]

Originally Posted by sir_talk_alot

Cam specs r 279/479

Really need more info than that.

Looking for:

Advertised Duration
Duration @ .050
Lobe seperation

Just from the specs you posted it looks like the flat tappet thumpr. Would that be correct?

[TobyArnot]

Is there a small OEM converter that would raise the stall speed? I "remember"? something about using a Vega converter with a 350Turbo---
Anyway, I'm following this, cause I could stand a "looser" converter in my stepper. I have to hold the brake at stop because of "creep". Idle @ 650, can't stand slower...

[sir_talk_alot]

sorry guys been busy, here is a screen shot from comp about the cam.

[ffk]

www.coan.com coan racing trans .. there the best give them a call...free advise on trans and converters

[Scotty-D]

Myself I'd run a 2800. That cam will make really good midrange torque and a 2800 would put it right in the neck snapping, tire burning territory. I know that comp says 2000+ stall, but even with 3.73's a 2k is going to be way too tight.

I'd also look into running a trans cooler as mentioned above. It would be cheap insurance.

Just my .02
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[CC69Rat]

I agree. 2800 would do it up nicely.

I might consider a deep pan / cooler just to be safe. I had the TCI Streetfighter in a 69 Camaro 355/350TH (built) and it was evil off the line. (3:42) The car would almost come around in the road with you when it hit 2nd. With 3:73's it would be snappy for sure. It would sound good too as the RPMs come up

[Bull72]

bookmarking this thread

[bk2life]

Originally Posted by TobyArnot

. I have to hold the brake at stop because of "creep". Idle @ 650...

you shouldnt have any creep at 650RPMs

most big cams run/idle like crap so they up the idle to ocmpenstate. thus looser ocnvertor for driving.

i have a 2200 rpm in my crew cab dually. 4:11s, mild 350, 272 cam, its about perfect.

i tow, so i dont want to go bigger. wiht the new 489 itll stall a bit higher.

[70blackfish]

call PTC...no off the shelf converter is the right one.