Horn contact pin/spring/plastic thingy order?

[My3Sons!]

Lots of old threads on the topic but they seem to contradict, I have LMC kit and have 3 primary parts. Spring, metal contact stud and plastic ring. I've read you have to dremel down the metal contact stud for the plastic piece to fit, which seems extreme to me, also some threads mention just cutting the plastic piece. Just looking for confirmation on what should be very simple. Spring, then metal contact stud, then plastic ring around the 'head' of the contact stud to hold it at the end of the spring, yes? The part that confuses me is what is the actual trigger of the horn, I would have though it's the contact stud grounding out on the oval ring, if that's the case then what's with the plastic ring that prevents them from touching? So if I'm looking at the steering wheel with the 3 piece center horn button cap removed (metal concave piece, horn retainer and 3 hole gasket) there is the larger hole that you put the spring,stud, plastic cap into to actually trigger the horn. What order do you put the spring, stud, plastic cap in this hole before putting the concave metal piece, horn retainer and 3 hole gasket. What am I missing here.....

[landy]

Ah, yes. You are having the same problem I had/have. The LMC kit doesn't work directly without some modifications. Also, the parts diagram in the LMC catalog is incorrect. The white plastic ring you refer to is the cancelling cam and the pin that goes into it needs to be modified. Dremel down the diameter of the pin so it fits into the cylinder on the cancelling cam. The spring goes in first. The fiber barrel thingy doesn't work directly on the LMC-supplied cam. I sanded down the protrustions on the barrel thing and JB Welded it into the cylinder. It worked fine.

Regarding the rest of it, I've still not been able to get the horn to work correctly. I think that may be due to using a second gen steering wheel until I can find a decent first gen steering wheel. I think the width is different so it's causing the horn to ground out.

You may also want to post in the 67-72 truck section as you may get more responses than on the Blazer-specific one. The horn system is the same.

I've attached a link to one of my posts and the responses I received. It also has some good pics.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=515103

Keep posting on the progress.

[ETsC10]

landy's right. Flagged for a move over to the 67-72 forum.

Aftermarket horn and steering wheel related parts are notorious for being faulty.
There was a high-end (NEW) Mustang steering wheel in the shop here a few months
ago and it had such bad internal construction that it had a dead short.

Personally, I would return it and look for a used, loaded wheel on the parts board.

[Classic Bowties]

Originally Posted by My3Sons!

Lots of old threads on the topic but they seem to contradict, I have LMC kit and have 3 primary parts. Spring, metal contact stud and plastic ring.

Originally Posted by landy

I've attached a link to one of my posts and the responses I received. It also has some good pics.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=515103

If you click on the above thread link that landy posted then check out my reply in post #7 w/pics, that should get you going in the right direction without much contradiction or debate. Mel

[My3Sons!]

Jackpot! Thanks Mel, that is exactly what I was looking for! Quick clarifying question: When you grind down the head, is it in order to fit it down the shaft in column (essentially pic #3 of your #7 reply), so the head of the pin sits on top of the spring, not seated inside of it?

[landy]

Correct. You must grind down the head of the pin so that it slides into the cylinder on the cancelling cam. The spring goes in first, then the pin.

[My3Sons!]

Good grief, this shouldn't be that hard....now that I have the correct sequence of parts, I'm still missing something I think. The spring fills the void in the canceling cam, so when I put the pin head down, it's basically completely outside the canceling cam. Do I just push down the spring while putting the oval metal piece over it, and eventually getting the horn cap retainer screwed in without it popping out? doesn't seem right to me.

[landy]

Included in the LMC kit, there should be a gray fiber-like barrel shaped piece with protrusions or nipples on the sides. In order to make this piece work, you'll need to gently grind/sand down the protrustions so that it seats inside of the cylinder or void on the cancelling cam. The barrel shaped piece is intended to keep the spring and pin from popping out of the cylinder. However, you'll need to expoxy or JB Weld it into the top of the cylinder.

See my previous posts and links for additional clarification.

[My3Sons!]

Landy, thanks for all your help, I finally got it fixed. Took all of about 3 minutes once I got it all figured out. I lucked out a bit, as it turns out I had ordered an aftermarket kit in error and was going to send it back, I went to check and the cancel cam/ pin/ spring that came with that fit without all the monkey'ing with the LMC one. The other thing that I was doing wrong was not installing it in the cancel cam prior to installing the steering wheel. MUCH easier to get it in place when you have the cancel cam in hand! I was missing the entire function of the pin, in my head I thought it had to ground out at the bottom of the cancel cam, when quite the opposite, the spring makes it stand out of the cancel cam in order to touch the concave metal piece when you depress the horn cap.....So simple now that I see it all together! So, watch out tomorrow, I may just be honking for no reason as I drive to work!