New brakes/drums and drums still too tight....

[weever82]

Just replaced my rear shoes and put in a new spring kit. Then purchased new drums because I didn't know how old they were. Took me about 20 min of pounding to get the old ones off...

Swapped out all the old and went to put on the new drums and they won't slide on... I have the gear adjuster cranked all the way in and can't figure out what I am missing?

This is my first brake job and seemed pretty straight forward but did I forget to do something?

I was told the new ones should slip right on and then adjust out the shoes until they start to grab and you can feel friction when you pull off the drums.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Weev-
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[70CHEVYBB]

Is the adjuster sitting on the shoes properly? Are the wheel cylinders frozen so the pistons will not move in? How about the parking brake stuck on a little? The e-brake equalizer bar may be hung up between the shoes. just a few thoughts.

[GMCJOE]

Post some pictures for us. Visuals help a lot in these situations. But my first thoughts are you don't have the shoe's seated correctly against the wheel cylinder.

[sboris]

Just a thought, you didn't say what it is 1/2 or 3/4, my 3/4 said it could be a 11 inch shoe or 11 1/2 shoe. Maybe there are 2 sizes?
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[weever82]

Originally Posted by 70CHEVYBB

Is the adjuster sitting on the shoes properly? Are the wheel cylinders frozen so the pistons will not move in? How about the parking brake stuck on a little? The e-brake equalizer bar may be hung up between the shoes. just a few thoughts.

Could be the cylinders... Those babies look original! Can't be the e-brake because its completely out of the truck getting swapped out...
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[weever82]

Will try and post some pics as soon as possible.

There is two diff sizes of brakes, mine are the 11". I made sure to match them up with the old ones.

Appreciating all the help guys.

Weev-
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[GMCJOE]

Best case scenario is that you got it put all back together correctly, and the parts store gave you the wrong shoes. Sometime they get packaged wrong. Right part number, wrong part. Happened to me several times. Drum brakes are easy to figure out. Now remembering where all the parts go if you don't have a picture of it is another story. That's why I do one side at a time so I still have a reference to go off of if I forget.

[weever82]

That's funny you said that Joe... I took at least 20 pics when I was piping them off.. Just in case. Haha. Good to know about the wrong packaging, will double check that as well.

Think I can swap out the cylinders without a bleeding of the brakes?

Weev-
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[cdowns]

the brakes will need to b bleed if you change wheel cylinders

[Stocker]

Originally Posted by weever82

Think I can swap out the cylinders without a bleeding of the brakes?

You'll only have to bleed a small amount, from the hard line connections to the wheel cylinders plus getting the air out of each wheel cylinder.

[weever82]

I heard that you could pop the cover off the master cylinder and push the brakes softly and the air will bubble out just a little bit and will be ok? Anyone heard if this?

Weev-
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[TheSeeker]

No, removing and replacing the wheel cylinders will require you to bleed the brakes. It is a good idea to flush out all the old brake fluid in the lines anyway, and replace with new fresh stuff. I just did a brake job and replaced master, all 4 wheel cylinders, drums and shoes and my truck has manual brakes and they feel really good now.

[GMCJOE]

I would just have someone depress the brake pedal slightly. If they move, most likely they are good and have no issues with them. Another trick you can try, remove you MC cap and press both sides of the wheel cylinder in at the same time to make sure the are depressed all the way in.

[weever82]

So I am pretty sure my cylinders were the culprit. One was leaking and they look about 40yrs old. Maybe original?

Either way gonna buy some new ones and swap out the rear brake lines as well since I'm stuck bleeding it anyways.

Weev-

[GMCJOE]

They are usually the problem when the shoes stop releasing properly. I pulled the boots of the ends of mine and they was full of rust and grim.

Hopefully that solves your issue.

[70CHEVYBB]

A picture of the shoes would be good. One thing to check would be the flat spots on the backing plate where the shoes rest. I have seen those ares worn enough the the shoes rest in the grooves and will not retract.