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#26 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Kansas
Posts: 702
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I agree with ya Fuelcellguy the rubber insulation is needed, not only to absorb vibrations/tweaks, but I am sure you also know that aluminum & steel are dismmilar metals, and will corrode if allowed to be in contact with each other. I'll bet that 5052 is easy to bend with that 40 ton press brake (seen yer shop pictures). Nice shop. I envy your tool inventory
for Blue68, no my tank is not DOT approved, I don't know of any aftermarket tank that is, including "JAZ" racing fuel cells
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The kid Build threads: 51 Jimmy http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=154951 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=219902 http://www.classictrucks.com/feature...uck/index.html 68 C10 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ad.php?t=50348 |
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#27 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Burbank, Wa.
Posts: 123
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i installed a 32 gal tank from like and 85 blazer and put the door on out side i had to do some stuff to the frame, it works great and hangs a bout as low as those fuel cell pics...... there is a tech article on the 67-72chevytrucks web site on a similar tank.
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67 LWB frenched in antenna capped stake posts, relocated 85 blazer gas tank, gas door from 91, custom grill, seats from 95 chevy, working on smoothed tailgate and tonnue cover 350 bored 30 over 280 cam eddlebrock performer intake 650 edlebrock carb. ![]() |
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#28 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Farmers Branch, Tx
Posts: 1,009
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we used to sand a cross grain on the 5052 to bend it without cracking.
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http://www.picturetrail.com/jwill41 67 1/2 ton GMC short step side 68 1/2 ton Chevy long fleet side 72 1/2 ton Chevy Suburban 99 1/2 ton Chevy Suburban founder (and only member) of the primer/clearcoat club |
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#29 |
Active Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Atwater, CA
Posts: 259
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I really like the idea of these fuel cells, but what's going to happen to the tank and the filler when your sliding stuff in and out of the bed? I'd like to do something like this on the truck that I don't own yet...but I also intend to use the truck and am a little concerned. I guess you could cut a little access door in the bed and leave the filler under it. Any comments?
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Kevin 72 Chevelle 67 C10...454/TH400 Build Thread:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=193961 |
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#30 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Kansas
Posts: 702
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Kevncar, On my 71 & my 68, I put the filler cap assy. in the rear of the drivers side wheel well about 1" up from the bottom. That way you can still fill up with a full load of plywood or what ever. Not as fancy as the side marker fill ( deleted these on my 68) but a simple instl. and no unsightly door on the outside of body.
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The kid Build threads: 51 Jimmy http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=154951 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=219902 http://www.classictrucks.com/feature...uck/index.html 68 C10 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ad.php?t=50348 |
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#31 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Frisco, Tx, USA
Posts: 606
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kevncar, what you'll find from folks that have a filler in the bed is one of two general setups. Either a straight shot through the bed floor. When going this route, it is best to have a cutout door flush with the bed and then a filler cap under it. It's important to have the cover to keep debris out of the tank. The other approach is the build a filler door in the inside behind the wheel wheel hump and attach it to the inner bed wall somehow. Both approaches CAN cause concern if you make long hauls and need to refuel when hauling a bed full of stuff. Otherwise, keep your hauls short or your load flexible.
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http://home.comcast.net/~r.landrum/w...tos.html-.html '68 C-10 LWB, '98 Z-71 350 w/accessories (Serpentine), Edelbrock Performer, Edelbrock 1405 (600cfm) carb, GM HEI, CompCam Extreme 4x4 roller cam, Thorley Headers, Carter Electric Fuel Pump, Vintage Air, 700r4, 3.73, disc brakes and power steering upgrades. |
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#32 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 1,076
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A little off topic but I was thinking of putting two small saddle tanks into my shortbed. I think it may be a bit more expensive to do but the load is between the wheels instead of out back and there would be nothing hanging down. Fuel filler would be easier to do also. Anybody done this...?
I have saddles on my long bed..just never seen anyone do it on a short bed.
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............................................................ 68 Chevy CST SWB w/LS1, carb & 700r4. Golden Anniversary clone with a few improvements. |
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#33 |
FUEL CELL GURU
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Mineola, Texas
Posts: 993
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Saddle tanks...
I measures for some saddle tanks once and I think one could only get about 10-11 gallons of capacity out of each tank. It can be done pretty easily. You would need to filler necks or other way to fill and a diverter valve to switch tanks. Later, FuelCellGuy
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#34 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 73
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Fuelcellguy question.
Interested in one of your tanks. First....does the $325 include all filler hardware (ie..fill cap, hoses, etc.)....and second, what keeps the tank from shifting forwards or aft during acceleration or braking?
Appreciate the info.
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72 swb Cheyenne "nut & bolt" frame off (in process) Blown 383 |
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#35 |
Certified Chevy Man
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Tucson, Arizona, United States
Posts: 2,053
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I did a 31? gallon tank in my 68 longbed. I have a little tech and picture page on my non-updated website: www.geocities.com/cst68chevy and click on gas tank conversion.
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68 Chevy CST (327,TH400) 3/5 drop lots of fun stuff 71 Suburban 4x4 (350,TH350) 7" lift 37's, D44/14 bolt and other sorts of goodies, lockers front and rear, flexes 40", 895 RTI score Check out my web site!!! http://www.geocities.com/cst68chevy/ |
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