![]() |
![]() |
#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Manassas, VA
Posts: 25
|
Burning Oil?
hey everyone, i have a 1980 K10 with a 350/SM465. The 350 has a recentish rebuild about 25000 miles. Oil is changed every 3000 miles and when i was pulling in my drive way last night it had a slight knocking sound, so this morning i checked the oil, there was none on the dipstick. added about 4 quarts of oil to it. the knocking stopped, there are no visible oil leaks that i can tell, what can cause this much oil consumption?
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: SLC, UT
Posts: 706
|
Re: Burning Oil?
Does it smoke on startup? That would be an indication of bad valve guide seals.
Does it smoke while driving? |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Manassas, VA
Posts: 25
|
Re: Burning Oil?
There is an inital puff of white smoke when it cranks but then it stops, following condensation from the tailpipe. It does not smoke while driving
__________________
1980 K10 350/SM465 |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Prescott, Arizona
Posts: 2,396
|
Re: Burning Oil?
If it has cat converters, you likely wouldn't see alot (if much at all) of smoke out the tailpipe since converters tend to burn most of it off.
If it is indeed burning it, it could be a number of things. Worn guides, or in your case of a fairly new engine, gulled up valve guides from improper valve guide clearance settings or no lube during assembly (dry startup). Could be a poor intake seal sucking oil from the lifter valley. Or possibly sucking oil from the PCV valve (bad valve or lack of baffling). Sounds like you'll have to start investigating which cylinder or cylinders and pinpoint the issue. 4 qts low before the next 3,000 mile oil change is a ton. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Manassas, VA
Posts: 25
|
Re: Burning Oil?
Quote:
__________________
1980 K10 350/SM465 |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Prescott, Arizona
Posts: 2,396
|
Re: Burning Oil?
Checking for PCV baffle under the valve cover. If they are factory covers I'd say you're okay, but alot of your aftermarket covers don't have baffling,,,or don't have sufficient baffling. Since I'm not sure whether you have factory valve covers or not, I thought I'd mention it.
Quick way to check if this is even the problem, just pull the PCV hose and see if it's wet with oil inside. I will even use a Q-tip and reach up inside to swab it around. If it comes out clean,,,,you're golden ![]() Yes I would start pulling plugs and see if you can pinpoint the offending cylinder/cylinders. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#7 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Manassas, VA
Posts: 25
|
Re: Burning Oil?
Quote:
__________________
1980 K10 350/SM465 |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#8 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Prescott, Arizona
Posts: 2,396
|
Re: Burning Oil?
If there isn't any oil in the PCV system, your fine. I'd swab the inside of the hose first before you go pulling off valve covers. If it's dry, then the oil is coming from somewhere else.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#9 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Manassas, VA
Posts: 25
|
Re: Burning Oil?
Ill have to wait till i get home to swab the hose, but i pulled the pcv for a visual inspection and there was oil on the outside of the housing
__________________
1980 K10 350/SM465 |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#10 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Manassas, VA
Posts: 25
|
Re: Burning Oil?
today i found that a had some loose intake manifold bolts, im guessing this is my problem, the gasket isnt sealing and the oil is passing through
__________________
1980 K10 350/SM465 |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#11 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Prescott, Arizona
Posts: 2,396
|
Re: Burning Oil?
Cross your fingers and hope that snugging them down will reseal it.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#12 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Manassas, VA
Posts: 25
|
Re: Burning Oil?
should i torque them down or just snug them?
__________________
1980 K10 350/SM465 |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#13 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Prescott, Arizona
Posts: 2,396
|
Re: Burning Oil?
I believe in most cases, 30 ft lbs. is enough, but you could just give them a good tug for now if you wish, starting from the center out, and drive it for a while and see if your oil usage changes, slows down, or goes away completely.
If it slows down but is still using some, then you may have found the issue, and it may just require removing the intake for another gasket. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#14 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Des Moines IA
Posts: 1,250
|
Re: Burning Oil?
You should probably loosen and retighten ALL of the bolts to try to get it to pull down even. You risk poorly sealed gaskets or even cracking the intake manifold if it's tweaked down awkwardly. Personally, I'd be so curious that I'd have to pull the intake off and look for oil tracks leading past the gaskets to know for sure if it was leaking into the intake ports.
__________________
- 1981 Sierra 454, NV4500 swap - 2006 Z06, 25k miles - 1973 Nova - Project CarNova Virus on Youtube |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#15 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Prescott, Arizona
Posts: 2,396
|
Re: Burning Oil?
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#16 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Atlanta georgia
Posts: 20
|
Re: Burning Oil?
Hey just came across this I broke a bolt for the valve cover tighten it down today I'm like screwed I don't have the tools to back it out and it's leaking a quart a min when running will have to have it towed to a shop and have the screw backed out I'm kinda scared its leaking somewhere eles also never seen that much oil come out at one time but I never broke a bolt in the valve eather smh
Posted via Mobile Device |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#17 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: TN
Posts: 410
|
Re: Burning Oil?
There's no reason to crank on valve cover bolts to the point of breaking them off. Just to them from the center out evenly and get them snug....and use a 1/4 ratched set.
The intake doesn't "normally" get torqued anyway....what's really important is that you tighten it in the proper pattern and evenly. Same thing, start with the inside and work your way out, but criss cross while you do it.
__________________
'69 Dodge Charger R/T 440, 727, 3.55 Sure Grip '68 Plymouth Road Runner 383, 727, 3.23 Sure Grip '89 Dodge Diplomat ex cop car 408, 727, 3.55 Sure Grip '77 Dodge Monaco ex cop car 440, 727, 2.71 '79 Dodge 'Lil Red Express pickup 360, 727, 3.55 Sure Grip '12 Dodge Challenger SRT8 392, M6, 3.92 '85 Chevrolet C-10 SWB 2wd 305, TH350, 2.73 |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|