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#1476 |
I'm just glad to be here!
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Longview, TX
Posts: 4,788
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Re: Make it handle
dmw319 - it will make them stronger since the two parts are only spot welded together from the factory. I would weld about an inch long, skip a space and weld about an inch long the entire length of the arm. Do the top AND the bottom of the arm. Before welding, make sure to get all the paint and junk out of the seam. I will be doing mine once I get my son's truck rolling on it wheels and I have room to take mine apart again...
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Karl ![]() 1965 Chevy Stepside(Grandpa's Old Blue) and (July 2015 Shop Build!)(2020, the Saga Continues) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=372424 The LST Challenge: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=1#post7812257 Korbin's 1st Square: "Sunburn" http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=418618 1985 GMC Sierra: "White Trash", Korbin's 2nd now... http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=632305 Henry - 1984 Chevrolet, Owen's 1st Square |
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#1477 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Dandridge, Tn. USA
Posts: 2,226
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Re: Make it handle
I am in favor of 'capping', 'plating', and 'boxing' the ends of the arms. They do need a little help here. I also think it's OK to add some weld, like Aggie suggested to the seams. But, I'm not sure it's such a good idea to box or plate the entire arm,- for ride and handling. For drag racing - yes. Show truck - yes. Canyon carver -no. The arm needs to 'twist' to let the suspension articulate freely. We want to control movement with springs, shocks, sway bars, not with 'binding' or suspension 'friction'.
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#1478 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 639
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Re: Make it handle
awesome thanks for your suggestions guys! my truck is just a weekend driver, occasional non-pro show, occasional haul of mulch, etc. So my idea was to just beefen them up just a little and keep them from splitting down the road.
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#1479 | |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Beaverton, OR
Posts: 3,728
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Re: Make it handle
Quote:
I know there is a kit that bolts a plate to the bottom to stiffen the stock arms, but based on your input, Rob, this might not be a good idea from a touring performance standpoint.
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#1480 | |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Anderson SC
Posts: 3,885
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Re: Make it handle
Quote:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=387475 Posted via Mobile Device
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#1481 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Rising Star, Tx
Posts: 249
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Re: Make it handle
Loving the thread guys. Keep it up.
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NAME: TRAVIS TRUCK: BRUISER 71 C/10 SWB 3.5/5" drop 4.11 GEARS. F.A.S.T. BBC 408 496hp/479ft/lb JAKES 4L80E TCI TCU PTC 10.5" 2800 STALL My build thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...30#post5779530 |
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#1482 | |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Beaverton, OR
Posts: 3,728
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Re: Make it handle
Quote:
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New Project: 1966 LWB C20 Plans: 1/2 ton conversion Dropmember front Dropmember rear Corvette discs Restored raised bed http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=4295210 |
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#1483 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Rising Star, Tx
Posts: 249
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Re: Make it handle
I just bought a cpp rear trailing arm coil spring kit w/3" springs, but it's to convert from leaf springs. I got their rear sway bar. I also got their a-arms and 2.5" drop spindles w/bilstien shocks. I hope this will help out a bunch. I want to run 18" rims. I like the JD wheels ridler 18x8's or 18x9.5. I want to run the same size on front and rear. I just wish I could figure out what back spacing to run.
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NAME: TRAVIS TRUCK: BRUISER 71 C/10 SWB 3.5/5" drop 4.11 GEARS. F.A.S.T. BBC 408 496hp/479ft/lb JAKES 4L80E TCI TCU PTC 10.5" 2800 STALL My build thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...30#post5779530 |
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#1484 |
A guy with a truck
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Germany, for now
Posts: 5,920
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Re: Make it handle
It's tough to run the same BS front and rear on these trucks due to the difference in track width front/rear. Did you get the new 'school/old school' spindles? That would help get them closer. And you could probably get away with ~4 to 5" of backspacing all the way around, depending on your wheel width and the look you're going for, ie tucked or flush...
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#1485 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Arizona
Posts: 249
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Re: Make it handle
I installed the Nolimit wideride which is going to allow me to run 20×10 , same bs, with 285x40x20 on all four.
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#1486 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Rising Star, Tx
Posts: 249
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Re: Make it handle
I got the normal 2.5 cpp drop spindles I think 1.5" wider. I just want to run 18x9.5 w/5.25 bs on all four.
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NAME: TRAVIS TRUCK: BRUISER 71 C/10 SWB 3.5/5" drop 4.11 GEARS. F.A.S.T. BBC 408 496hp/479ft/lb JAKES 4L80E TCI TCU PTC 10.5" 2800 STALL My build thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...30#post5779530 |
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#1487 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Dandridge, Tn. USA
Posts: 2,226
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Re: Make it handle
OK, this is probably out there some where. Is there a chart of wheel size and back space for these trucks? I have some info on our suspension set ups, but it would be good to have a chart we all could use. If not, start posting up what your running and I'll sort it out.
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#1488 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Beaverton, OR
Posts: 3,728
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Re: Make it handle
Rob, I am fighting with the wheel options myself. I am running a 9C1 rear that measures about 62" wide. The wheels I want to run are 18x7.5 with +51mm offset.
So for my truck: 62" wide axle + 2" of wheel + 1" of tire (max) per side would be a 68" rear end that looks like it will tuck without cutting the fenders at 72" of space.
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New Project: 1966 LWB C20 Plans: 1/2 ton conversion Dropmember front Dropmember rear Corvette discs Restored raised bed http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=4295210 |
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#1489 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Ruskin Florida
Posts: 4,560
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Re: Make it handle
OK. So I switched the upper control arms and did the lower control arm move it forward thing about 3/4" . So far so good but the upper ball joint seems to be close to binding. Is this just because the body is not on the frame yet? 73 heavy duty front end. Should I put more spacers on the rear upper control arm until I can get it aligned?
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#1490 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Anaheim, CA
Posts: 455
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Re: Make it handle
I'll be tearing apart my truck next week, finally. I have a 67 shortbed, but it looks to be built on a newer chassis. Has discs up front, power steering (frame is formed for the PS which is why I'm thinking it isn't a 67 chassis), 5 lugs front and rear. Doesn't really look to be a major parts swap, more of a front end and cab swap if anything, if any of this makes a difference for suspension/wheels.
![]() Anyways, I'm looking to install the Hotchkis TVS and bigger brakes (haven't decided which yet but I'll be going disc front and rear) and run it on a set of Bassett D-Hole wheels. For the wheels/tires, unless you guys advise against for any reason, I'd like to keep all four the same and go 15x10 (unless it won't clear) with as much rubber stuffed in there as possible. Given that info, I now need to calculate the ever troublesome backspacing. With that wide of a wheel/tire and that suspension I'm assuming I may run into some rubbing issues if the backspacing isn't dead on. I can pull the wheels off and measure the rearend width, but the Hotchkis widens the front by 1.8" What would be the most efficient way of figuring all this out? Backspacing, making sure I have enough clearance/etc. I'll need to order the wheels since I can't find them locally, so I'd rather not order and find out they don't fit and start over. ![]() For the front spindles, will the TVS 4/6" drop sit the truck level or will it need the 2" drop spindles to drop the front end level with the rear? I want it as low as possible but again, don't want to run into rubbing issues with the tires and I want to keep it level. Tires, this may sound like a silly question but Goodyear Eagle G-23 (or similar) tires. Will a tire like this drive well on the street? As terrible as it sounds, the massive yellow Goodyear Eagle logos are primarily what I'm after to be completely honest. http://www.racegoodyear.com/tires/short_track.html ![]() Long list of questions and a bit scattered, I know, but any advice/help would be greatly appreciated, and will help narrow things down. I drive this truck daily and often push it fairly hard. Figure with the upgraded suspension/brakes/wheels/tires I'll be driving the snot out of her! ![]() |
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#1491 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 1,018
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Re: Make it handle
Don't know about those specifically but racing tires tend to have a life expectancy on the street of not dramatically more than they do on the track, and most track tires have a life expectance on the track of a couple hours or a couple hundred miles.
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#1492 | |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Anaheim, CA
Posts: 455
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Re: Make it handle
Quote:
Thanks! |
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#1493 | |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Anderson SC
Posts: 3,885
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Re: Make it handle
Quote:
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Project Goldilocks '66 C10 Short Fleet BBW Build '65 C10 Highly Detailed Stock Restoration Thread '78 Camaro Targa Roof Build '55 International Metal/Body/Paint Work '66 F100 Full Rotisserie Restoration '40 Packard 120 Convertible Coupe Restoration How To Restore and Detail an Original Gauge Cluster How To Detail Sand Body Panels, Edges, Corners, Etc |
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#1494 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Wichita Falls, Texas
Posts: 459
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Re: Make it handle
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#1495 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2011
Location: sacramento Ca
Posts: 84
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Re: Make it handle
so I am in the midst of a front disk swap on my 66, and founf that the po heated the spring un-evenly so its rolled over in a spot, leaving me to buy new springs front and rear, im going with 2.5" drop spindles and cross member from an 85 im thinking 2" drop springs(front)4-5"drop rear not trying to notch it though , however im questioning weather to go with an off the shelf (cpp, etc) spring or if there is maybe a a decent progressive rate or stiffer/softer spring package .Any input would be great, truck is a 66 short fleet with a small block and will get an 85 stock front sway bar may be some stock rear if i can fit one without welding much . its not necessarily a track truck just a fun driver. thanks a bunch
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#1496 | |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Anaheim, CA
Posts: 455
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#1497 | ||
Registered User
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Anderson SC
Posts: 3,885
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Re: Make it handle
Quote:
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Project Goldilocks '66 C10 Short Fleet BBW Build '65 C10 Highly Detailed Stock Restoration Thread '78 Camaro Targa Roof Build '55 International Metal/Body/Paint Work '66 F100 Full Rotisserie Restoration '40 Packard 120 Convertible Coupe Restoration How To Restore and Detail an Original Gauge Cluster How To Detail Sand Body Panels, Edges, Corners, Etc |
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#1498 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Spring Hill, TN
Posts: 13
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Re: Make it handle
If we only had one of these to play with every time we go to make a change!
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#1499 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Dandridge, Tn. USA
Posts: 2,226
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Re: Make it handle
Too cool. Is that from PRI? So, caster, camber toe and bumpsteer all at once, and scales?, and is it active? - can you raise and lower the suspension?
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GoodGuys 2012 Pro-Truck Champion ![]() 2012 Truckin' Throwdown Champion GoodGuys 2011 National Champion ![]() 2011 Truckin' Throwdown Champion GoodGuys 2010 National Champion ![]() Proud to put our products up against all others! |
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#1500 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Spring Hill, TN
Posts: 13
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Re: Make it handle
It was at the IMIS Show(soon to be PRI) last week! It was super cool, I tried to get more screen pics but they didn't come out good. Yes it has scales on all four wheels and you can pull down or raise up and watch the load vs. travel change along with bump steer, camber curve and several other options. I was so geeked out over it that it took a couple minutes for me to realize I was standing next to Brad Keslowski!
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