4x4 Power Steering

[Jwernquist]

Ive been browsing the forums using hte search and havent been able to find any successful 1961 GMC 4x4 Power Steering conversions. I know its been said to be done but I havent been able to find what exactly I need.

So far : Items I have
Later Power Steering Box + Pump brackets all the hardware for pulleys etc.

What I dont have is what goes from the new steering box to the steering assembly on the hub ?

I read that you need to change the front crossmember with a later model one is that correct? Anyone know the years I can use and does anyone have any pictures of their 4x4 conversions?

Thanks
Jonny

[Jwernquist]

Also have the adapter plate from captain fab too!

[padresag]

Originally Posted by Jwernquist

Ive been browsing the forums using hte search and havent been able to find any successful 1961 GMC 4x4 Power Steering conversions. I know its been said to be done but I havent been able to find what exactly I need.

So far : Items I have
Later Power Steering Box + Pump brackets all the hardware for pulleys etc.

What I dont have is what goes from the new steering box to the steering assembly on the hub ?

I read that you need to change the front crossmember with a later model one is that correct? Anyone know the years I can use and does anyone have any pictures of their 4x4 conversions?

Thanks
Jonny

is it a 4 x 4 steering box? did it com with the pitman arn, the arm off of the strg box. next you will need a drag link between that arm and the arm coming off the top of the frt k/pin. use the newer style drag link but you will have to modify the frt steering arm to acccept the new style end from the drag link like this

this one is available
I take it that your truck has the tubular crossmember under the frt of the eng where the frt of the eng mounts. in order to mount the p/s pump in the stock location you will have to go to side mounting on your eng as he pump will mount in the holes where the frt eng mount now attaches to
there are aftermarket p/s pump brkts avail perhaps that may fit your application, depending on what year your eng is- later model engs had mounting holes on the frt of cyl heads which 283 didn't have.
for eng mounting one could put in a 67-72 eng crossmember like one in picture

those are the options and if you have any questions,ask. think that there was also a thread on this not to long ago. the Capt can add to this
ron

[Jwernquist]

The picture of the modified steering arm is exactly what I needed, luckily the front cross member must have been modified and the motor is a later 327 which has all the mounting holes in the front of the head.

Thanks for the help you've clarified a great deal.

[Jwernquist]

Does anyone know the length that the steering arm needs to be modified too?IT looks like in the picture that the length is considerably shorty than the original 2x4 version.

[padresag]

Originally Posted by Jwernquist

Does anyone know the length that the steering arm needs to be modified too?IT looks like in the picture that the length is considerably shorty than the original 2x4 version.

original 2 x4 never had that setup . if you are interested in the one in the picture you can p/m me
ron

[Jwernquist]

I will post a few pictures of what the setup is on my truck shortly. After removal of the old steering box and a few other bits i'm thoroughly confused.

[Jwernquist]

Alright here is what I have :

First photo is the new 4x4 steering box

second new and old arm however the new arm has too small of a
hole to fit the new steering box? Supposedly they were paired so napa says.
3rd and 4th is the steering arm and position.

I have all the new bits to connect the steering box to the steering arm but not the correct arm off the steering box yet.

Ill purchase the modified steering arm from the member that posted if that would save me some time modifying my current one.

As far as the engine is concerned I have all the necessary brackets to mount the pump and the alternator which is almost done. My main concern is getting the new steering box to the steering arm

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[61K10]

I am doing the same conversion on my 61K 10. on the stovebolt site a guy posted up on what to use as a drag link and the moog part #'s. I just bought autozone. my steering box is a 88 up (o-ring type) your box looks like a 2x4 box. will post up some pics later today for ya and part #

[padresag]

that does look like a 2 wheel pitman arm, 4 x 4 has the end on the d/link and the pitman arm receives it. sent you a pm. have some pictures of a 4 x 4 box and arm that I can email tp you .saves posting unless others want it
ron

[Jwernquist]

Thanks for all the tips, I've found a few diagrams at lmc truck page 128 and 129 that has the diagrams and explanations of what i need.

Yes napa again sent us the wrong pitman arm and now I have a reference of what it looks like.

The only problem I have at this point is to modify the steering arm . It seems as though it needs to be shortened as well as bored out to fit the proper drag link. which shouldn't be too big of a deal.

Couldn't have gotten this far without all the help. Ill be sure to post a followup post with pictures to summarize this pia project !

Thanks again for everyones help.

[padresag]

this is on an 84 frame that I have herer



ron

[61K10]

My steering box and pitman arm are like Ron's pic (88 up with o-ring hoses) which shouldn't make any diff. is the hole in the stock steering arm(on axle) tapered? the info i got was the rod end will fit the hole and it is from a 85 blazer. also their was no mention of shortening the steering arm on axle. haven't pulled my stuff apart yet as i pulled my acl and am gimping around. here are some pics of the new drag link and part #'s. post all your info you find out too. i have captfab's plate and i do have the front eng mount cross-member. hope this helps some.

[61K10]

for anybody that cares about this conversion here are some more facts. the rod end fits the taper in the steering link on the axle (it is tapered). the rod end is rubbing on the axle u-bolt plate which can be clearance (the rubber grease boot) we will see.

[Jwernquist]

I had the same issue with the tie-rod drag link rubbing as you do. Considering the placement of the box as well as the drag links I am having the steering arm cut and shortened then re-enforced. Then rubbing shouldnt be an issue on the axle plate. Given the length of the pitman Im taking an 1 x 3/4" off of the steering arm. I do have the same setup as you do. IT should be done and modified tomorrow and I will post some pictures.

[61K10]

looking forward to your progress. would like to see the shortened steering arm. mine just rubs the spring plate, really just the rubber cup. might need to shorten it to get it to turn to the stops. need to get my box mounted. how did you get the rivet's out of the stock plate?

[Jwernquist]

I removed the stock rivets by grinding away then punching out. It took a bit but worked out good. The arm is being shortened about 1.5" it will place the drag link at the same distance out from the frame as the pitman arm.

[Jwernquist]

Ill post some pictures shortly, of where I mounted the box etc. I don't have the arm back yet but as soon as I do Ill upload some pictures here.

[dieseldude4bt]

The way I remove rivets is to cut an "X" in the head with a cut off wheel than chisel the head off, pilot drill it then step drill with a larger bit, so the material has some where to go, than knock it out with a punch. This way it doesn't deform any of the metals riveted together.

[Jwernquist]

Heres where I'm at currently, I have the power steering box mounted and am just waiting on the steering arm to be finished then I can hook the rest of it up.

Still waiting on a few more parts on the engine side but I have the power steering pump mounted and installed and just need to attach the lines and we have power steering

[61K10]

looking good---here's my set-up. steering shaft is not welded and is temp as i am going to put in a tilt column. had to get this bracket off before capt's plate could be installed. also clearance on the spring bracket. return hose is to short also.

[padresag]

Originally Posted by 61K10

looking good---here's my set-up. steering shaft is not welded and is temp as i am going to put in a tilt column. had to get this bracket off before capt's plate could be installed. also clearance on the spring bracket. return hose is to short also.

by the look of those frt rims i would also put in a longer reinforcing plate inside of the frame. these frames are notorious for cracking from thee steering box and the big tires tend to put more strain on it
ron

[Jwernquist]

I built a plate for the backside of the frame a 1/4" steel that runs call the way to the cross member and to the front I'm going to weld it in afgrt its all bolted together.

The front crossmember is tubular but I was still able to put the power steering pump below the alternator on the drivers side. Took a little bit of bracket work but all is well there. Luckily I have a later model 350 that made this rather easy engine wise.

I should be wrapped up Monday and will post pics and a little tutorial of what I've done.
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[padresag]

don't weld up the end of the plate as that is where it will crack if it is going to. nice tight bolts through the plate and frame. when I first got mine in late 90 it had 36 x 15 x 15 Cepeks on it. that is a lot of tire on the ground to turn in every day driving. went to 33 x 12.5 x 15 which I feel is still to much for that frame. my frame has been repaired a few times. I have put those tires and wheels on my 65 C930 with manual steering. you know that you have to much rubber on there-armstrong
ron

[61K10]

don't know if i will run the rims--15x8, not going to be a real off road truck as i am an old-- 63 yrs and just want a nice driver if it snows (have a 2000 z71) I like old stuff like me and I have been modding stuff before most of you were born, and would keep an eye on stuff that would be in a pressure zone. take care all------